Delta/Biesemeyer 30 in T-Square Fence and Rail System for Craftsman 113 saw

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Forum topic by Quickstone posted 08-27-2018 11:21 PM 2917 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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2 posts in 511 days

08-27-2018 11:21 PM

Topic tags/keywords: delta 30 fence deltabiesemeyer 30 in t-square fence and rail system craftsman 113 contractors saw

I decided to join Lumberjocks and make this post to possibly help others. A few months back, I was a bit confused about the options for replacing and upgrading the original Craftsman fence system on my late ‘80s 113 saw.

This post is only to show what I did, not to compare this solution to other choices for replacing the original Craftsman 113-style fence.

After a lot of web surfing, I finally decided what Delta Machinery labels it as “Biesemeyer, T-Square Commercial Fence System Type 2” which is further described as “The Delta 30 in. (762 mm) T-Square Fence and Rail System is a great fence for the Delta 5000 Series saws with 30 in. tables.” This fence kit is offered at least by two sources: 1) Delta Machinery and 2) Home Depot. I took the Home Depot route.

Home Depot lists the item as a “30 in. T-Square Fence and Rail System”, Model # BC30T2, Internet # 205713314, which it sells for $399.00.

The “kit” arrived in two boxes, both of which were heavy. One, longer box, contained the rails and the channels, the other, shorter box, had the extension table legs (which I did not need nor plan to use), the hardware bag, instructions and, of course, the fence (which is also quite heavy).

The installation was not difficult, but took some extra time and cost due to mods that I made or had to make. I have more pictures than I will post, which could be made available if they would help.

The installation manual was choked with the usual clutter of irrelevant things for this install. Once, I realized this, the install progressed OK. Diagrams would have helped, but the manual stuck with written paragraphs.

The install started with mounting and clamping the front rail – then drilling. (I noticed that the main 113 table cast iron is much harder than that of the wing extensions. When finishing the install, I bought coated bits and an 82-degree countersink bit from McMaster – these cut better.) One of the mods I made later was to replace the included 1/4-20 flat head mild steel bolts with 318 SS ones. The back rail is there, but – unnecessarily, by my observation – has its mounting holes offset a different amount from the table surface than the front. All the action is from the front rail; the back rail is just for table mounting symmetry. I had to cut out a wider slot in the back rail to accommodate blade tilt interference from the original blade guard mounting post.

I decided to buy an additional cast-iron table extension leaf from an eBay seller, to mount to the far right of the blade. The two right-hand extensions had to be shimmed to be level with the main surface as well as flexed a bit (with clamps, before tightening the bolts) to made them line up with each other from front to back (yes, the cast iron will flex under the right leverage). I had to add two additional, countersunk mounting holes in the far-right-end – from the front – of the mounting rails. Wow, the mounting rails are hard metal!

A full complement of front- and rear-rail mounting holes were drilled into the cast iron, to fully support the rails and tie everything together – seven bolts on each rail.

Also, I retained the original Craftsman 113 on/off switch which required fabricating a short 3/4” angle to mount on the front rail.

The Biesemeyer fence is mostly supported by five (if I remember correctly) plastic inserts that ride on the main (front) positioning channel. The rear of the fence has a single insert that contacts the table surface. Well, this single insert was in the wrong spot for the rear edge of my table and table extensions, so I removed it, drilled more favorably located mounting holes and replace it. Now, the fence slides nicely over the full range from left to right.

Also, I designed and fabricated a base with casters for my 113 saw. Each caster pair rotates 270-degrees up and in to allow the saw to rest on the swivel feet. As I do not have a shop space, my saw needs to be moved around quite a bit.

5 replies so far

View therealSteveN's profile (online now)


4611 posts in 1178 days

#1 posted 08-28-2018 04:49 AM

Craftsman 113’s are all over this country, and maybe the most used TS of all time. It’s weaknesses are it fence, which you’ve gotten past. Alignment of the trunnions are also a biggie, they sometimes don’t want to stay adjusted like many heavier saws do.

You can fiddle with them, but nothing gets past that job quicker than a PALs kit to help you out. You are lucky, the fence was the money item, PALS is less than 30 bux shipped. Amazon link

In line Industries is the maker Checking with them about the PALs is a very good idea. The info there is the best, truest, and most often updated if they have any changes. I think PALs has been the same for years though. Nice folks, call if you have questions.

Beyond that, those silly sized miter bar slots don’t allow you to use hardly any other miter bar, EXCEPT that undersized one from Sears. Fixing that is maybe getting another saw. If you can live with it, the fence and the PALs will enable you to saw with the thought it can only get more powerful, cause you have it as accurate as it can be.

The T2 is a good fence, but for less $$$$$ you could have gotten a Vega U 26 for less than 300 bux. As accurate as a full on Beis. I think more so, and a lot of folks agree.

-- Think safe, be safe

View Ripper70's profile


1369 posts in 1513 days

#2 posted 08-28-2018 05:00 AM

Nice work! Hope you don’t mind I took the liberty to add the pics to your thread.

-- "You know, I'm such a great driver, it's incomprehensible that they took my license away." --Vince Ricardo

View WoodenDreams's profile


883 posts in 515 days

#3 posted 08-28-2018 05:58 AM

At first look at the base, I thought, is the base strong enough.Side extensions do help. My side extension are cast but solid flat ( no grid pattern ). The extra long fence is a nice touch. I imagine that you’ve made some or planning to make some Sliding Trays.

View Quickstone's profile


2 posts in 511 days

#4 posted 08-28-2018 04:25 PM

Thanks for the comments.

As I noted, when I decided to upgrade my fence, I had a rather tough time sorting out all of the advice and choices out there. So, I wanted to post just in case someone else would get inspiration, whatever path is taken.

I’ve had this saw since new, so there’s a bit of an emotional attachment to it – for better or worse. And, I’ve never had a dedicated shop space, so larger-base saws have always been out of the question. I have to say that I have looked at the folding-style contractor saws at various times – for space savings – but I’ve never made the switch.

Thanks to Ripper70 for adding the photos. Frankly, as a new user, I couldn’t figure out how to do it! Still, not sure.

As for the base size, the wide-angle lens makes the it look smaller than it is. This saw is so heavy, when the casters are folded up and the saw is sitting on the pads, it’s very stable. And now, with this setup, I finally (!) can locate the fence on either side of the blade. And with the right-hand table extension, the fence is supported for it’s full travel.

View TheFridge's profile


10859 posts in 2090 days

#5 posted 08-28-2018 04:34 PM

The bad thing about stainless is the galling.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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