Too much rust on this Delta Contractor saw?

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Forum topic by boobird posted 08-19-2018 04:43 AM 1244 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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12 posts in 727 days

08-19-2018 04:43 AM

I’m looking at a Delta Contractor saw tomorrow.

The seller wants $200.

He says its hardly used and there is “surface rust that will easily scratch off”.

Based on the pictures, do you think the rust will be insignificant or will it leave deep pits?

Is $200 a good deal? This is my first saw and I plan to build some cabinets, etc.

16 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile


8164 posts in 3010 days

#1 posted 08-19-2018 04:59 AM

ased on the pictures, do you think the rust will be insignificant or will it leave deep pits?

What Rust?

You would have to leave the machine out in the elements for years to get any kind of significant pitting that would effect operation. Added bonus – that machine has one of those magical motors that are 1.5hp @120vac, but bump up to 2hp @240vac :) $200 is a very fair price for that machine – the Unifence is basically worth the asking price alone.


-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View boobird's profile


12 posts in 727 days

#2 posted 08-19-2018 05:20 AM

Thank you for your comments. I was debating between this Delta ($200) and a Grizzly 444z ($400). I don’t have 220V at home, so in the end it was a pretty easy decision for me!

Well, I was also looking at a 1940s Delta for $100 but it appeared to have no extension wings.


I plan to pick it up tomorrow – I have a Honda Pilot with about 5 ft of depth in the trunk.

If necessary, is it relatively straightforward to remove the Unifence rails?

I can also rent a 5×8 trailer for $30. Would you recommend the trailer or disassemble?

View Fresch's profile (online now)


498 posts in 2732 days

#3 posted 08-19-2018 10:52 AM

Get the delta, do you need to take it apart to eat it out?
$30 rent is cheap,
220,230,240v isn’t that hard to get unless your service is only 110,115,120v.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

6329 posts in 3304 days

#4 posted 08-19-2018 10:58 AM

Don’t fret about the HP rating. The story goes that it is really 2 HP on 120V as well, Delta de-rated on 120V to fit UL rules. I think that would be a fine saw to have.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View knotscott's profile


8383 posts in 4187 days

#5 posted 08-19-2018 12:37 PM

$200 is a great deal if it checks out. That rust isn’t bad at all. Align it, and put a decent blade on it. Enjoy!

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View John Smith's profile

John Smith

2532 posts in 974 days

#6 posted 08-19-2018 01:23 PM

I bought one of the older Ohio Forge saws in worse condition than that for $200.
I estimate it weighed over 300 pounds. we spent a good amount of time taking
it apart to fit in the back of my Dodge Durango. getting it out was a chore, but done.
hope you can snag it !!!! (take your metric wrench and socket sets with you as well as SAE).
a quick run-over with the R/O sander will polish that bad boy right on up !!



-- there is no educational alternative to having a front row seat in the School of Hard Knocks. --

View GR8HUNTER's profile


7678 posts in 1523 days

#7 posted 08-19-2018 01:35 PM

this saw would be sitting in my shop already

remember rule #5

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

View BurlyBob's profile


7728 posts in 3076 days

#8 posted 08-19-2018 04:08 PM

That’s not a lot of rust. Might take you an 1 – 1 1/2 hours to clean up, polish and wax up.

View bondogaposis's profile


5807 posts in 3162 days

#9 posted 08-19-2018 05:04 PM

Huh, at that price I would have ripped my back pocket off getting to my wallet. Rust, clean up in a minute.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View boobird's profile


12 posts in 727 days

#10 posted 08-19-2018 07:43 PM

Thanks everyone for the comments I ended up picking this up this morning it turned out to be a Delta 36-451 in pretty good condition

View hkmiller's profile


236 posts in 893 days

#11 posted 08-20-2018 02:23 AM

That little bit of rust is nothing.

I turned this saw:

Into this saw:

-- always something

View boobird's profile


12 posts in 727 days

#12 posted 08-30-2018 04:40 PM

I partially sanded the rust spot, but the rust spot keeps forming. Am I not sanding deep enough?

View Underdog's profile


1519 posts in 2847 days

#13 posted 08-30-2018 04:46 PM

Probably need to use some rust remover from Boeshield or similar.

-- Jim, Georgia, USA

View JayT's profile


6402 posts in 3022 days

#14 posted 08-30-2018 06:19 PM

I partially sanded the rust spot, but the rust spot keeps forming. Am I not sanding deep enough?

- boobird

Flash rust can form almost instantly on unprotected cast iron. Scrape off the worst of the rust, then apply some sort of rust preventer with fine steel wool. That will take the flash rust back of while adding a layer to prevent more from forming. I just use Johnson’s paste wax on my tools. Others like T-9 or similar.

-- - In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.

View CaptainKlutz's profile (online now)


3379 posts in 2305 days

#15 posted 08-30-2018 09:17 PM

I partially sanded the rust spot, but the rust spot keeps forming. Am I not sanding deep enough?

- boobird

Pick up some Loctite brand extend clear from local auto parts store, Lowe’s, or some Walmart’s. You will not find it listed on the web sites, but most my local Autozone carry it. Loctite sells a version in bottle for brush work, but spray version is much easier. Extend will change the red iron oxide into stable black version of iron oxide, which will not grow or consume any more metal.

Extend spray works great for preventing rust on cast iron. I use it every 1-3 years on my cast iron tables. After removing as much rust as possible, flush & scrub top with solvent to remove wax and dirt. Spray a light coating of Extend on entire top. Once dry buff with white nylon sanding pad (or 600-1000 grit paper, or brown paper bag). Then apply wax with another white nylon buffing pad for normal rust protection. This treatment seals the pores in cast iron, and blocks the starting point for most rust with acrylic polymer that does not transfer to wood.

Some folks recommend wiping on a water based polyurethane as an alternative cast iron grain filler. Have no idea if it is better or worse than Extend coating. Have used extend since 90’s and it works like magic to stop rust.

PS – Permatex is consumer brand owned by Loctite to sell into certain market segments. If you find Permatex Rust Treatment spray, it is same chemistry with different label. :)

Best Luck.

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

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