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Glue and finish choice for veneer bookmarks

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Forum topic by TimInIndiana posted 08-13-2018 12:02 PM 667 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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TimInIndiana

145 posts in 560 days


08-13-2018 12:02 PM

Topic tags/keywords: veneering finishing

I’m looking to make bookmarks similar to these using scrap pieces of veneer from a local veneer shop.

The instructions say to use wood glue or double-sided tape to adhere the pieces together. I’m not sure what the best route is here – I don’t want the glue to bleed through the thin veneers and don’t expect to be able to easily clean up any squeeze out. There are no suggestions on finish.

Do you have any recommendations for gluing the pieces (which glue to use, gluing technique) or finishing? I have enough scrap to make several of these, but wouldn’t like to waste a lot on trial and error.


9 replies so far

View Robert's profile

Robert

3436 posts in 1901 days


#1 posted 08-13-2018 01:20 PM

You can use about any glue really although they do make veneer glue. Lots of guys use hide glue but that get involved with hot water baths, etc. You can also use contact cement, but I don’t recommend it.

To keep glue from bleeding through you can coat the glue surfaces with shellac first.

Finish is whatever you want. I would recommend something in a spray can (shellac, polyacrylic, polyurethane). Sand with 320 grit between coats.

There is also a technique I’ve used quite successfully where you coats the surfaces with a thin layer of glue, allow to become dry, then use a hot iron. Instant bond.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

5454 posts in 2771 days


#2 posted 08-13-2018 01:36 PM

How thick to you want to make them? It seems to me it would be easier to rip them to the thickness that you need rather than to glue up layers of veneer that are too thin.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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TimInIndiana

145 posts in 560 days


#3 posted 08-13-2018 02:03 PM



How thick to you want to make them? It seems to me it would be easier to rip them to the thickness that you need rather than to glue up layers of veneer that are too thin.

- bondogaposis

Just to be clear – I already have the veneer scrap – they are in strips a little wider than I will need them. I will be cutting the shapes with a laser.

It really is just a couple of layers of veneer glued together, as is shown here: https://www.epiloglaser.com/resources/sample-club/wooden-bookmark-cutting.htm

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

3554 posts in 1808 days


#4 posted 08-13-2018 02:08 PM

The kind of wood veneer can make a difference. If it is a burl or a very porous wood for example or is very thin, you are right the glue could very likely bleed through. Since they are so small, the double sided tape (aka carpet tape) may actually be the easiest way to glue them with no risk of bleed through. My second choice would be to try the contact cement. On such small pieces that would be easier than wood glue and clamping IMO. The dry wood glue and iron method mentioned above is supposed to be pretty easy as well (never tried it myself) but again, you may have to worry about bleed through on very thin porous woods.

The finish depends upon what you want it to look like. If you want it to have a film finish, spray shellac or polyurethane would be easy. I would use poly, since it will be less prone to cracking if flexed. But if you want it to look more natural, boiled linseed oil or Danish oil will give you nice finish but still look like natural wood.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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TimInIndiana

145 posts in 560 days


#5 posted 08-13-2018 02:20 PM


The kind of wood veneer can make a difference. If it is a burl or a very porous wood for example or is very thin, you are right the glue could very likely bleed through. Since they are so small, the double sided tape (aka carpet tape) may actually be the easiest way to glue them with no risk of bleed through. My second choice would be to try the contact cement. On such small pieces that would be easier than wood glue and clamping IMO. The dry wood glue and iron method mentioned above is supposed to be pretty easy as well (never tried it myself) but again, you may have to worry about bleed through on very thin porous woods.

The finish depends upon what you want it to look like. If you want it to have a film finish, spray shellac or polyurethane would be easy. I would use poly, since it will be less prone to cracking if flexed. But if you want it to look more natural, boiled linseed oil or Danish oil will give you nice finish but still look like natural wood.

- Lazyman

Thanks for the feedback! I do have some burl pieces – myrtle I believe. But mostly just planning to use “regular” (flat sawn?) strips.


You can use about any glue really although they do make veneer glue. Lots of guys use hide glue but that get involved with hot water baths, etc. You can also use contact cement, but I don t recommend it.

To keep glue from bleeding through you can coat the glue surfaces with shellac first.

Finish is whatever you want. I would recommend something in a spray can (shellac, polyacrylic, polyurethane). Sand with 320 grit between coats.

There is also a technique I ve used quite successfully where you coats the surfaces with a thin layer of glue, allow to become dry, then use a hot iron. Instant bond.

- rwe2156

Interesting tip re: letting the glue dry and using an iron. I had not heard that one before. Would this work with regular PVA glue?

View Rich's profile

Rich

4565 posts in 1010 days


#6 posted 08-13-2018 02:33 PM

You can start with thicker veneer. Up to 1/16” is not uncommon. Certainly Wood's special thickness veneers are as thick as 1/16 and 1/8 inch. Like Bondo said, it seems it would be easier to avoid gluing.

-- Knowledge is not skill. Knowledge plus ten thousand times is skill. -- Shinichi Suzuki

View TimInIndiana's profile

TimInIndiana

145 posts in 560 days


#7 posted 08-13-2018 02:56 PM



You can start with thicker veneer. Up to 1/16” is not uncommon. Certainly Wood s special thickness veneers are as thick as 1/16 and 1/8 inch. Like Bondo said, it seems it would be easier to avoid gluing.

- Rich

I’ve considered that – and thicker would certainly be better in terms of durability. I’ve got a few 1/16” pieces from Ocooch that I wanted to try this one as well. But it would nice to use up the scraps I got for free!

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

3554 posts in 1808 days


#8 posted 08-13-2018 03:07 PM

Another consideration that just occurred to me. For very thin veneer, the water in standard PVA wood glue may cause it to curl or wrinkle so you will want to make sure that you clamp it flat between to flat surfaces, while making sure that any squeeze out doesn’t glue your bookmark to your clamping board. You may also have to remove any squeeze out from the surface.

Here is a link to the PVA iron on method. Seems like I saw a demo on the Woodcraft website a while back as well.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View Robert's profile

Robert

3436 posts in 1901 days


#9 posted 08-13-2018 05:25 PM


Interesting tip re: letting the glue dry and using an iron. I had not heard that one before. Would this work with regular PVA glue?

- TimInIndiana

Yes. Check this out.

Tried white glue, too, but seems I had better results with yellow glue.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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