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3 inch wide boards for a tabletop

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Forum topic by Gibsonman posted 08-07-2018 06:21 PM 492 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Gibsonman

50 posts in 2004 days


08-07-2018 06:21 PM

I’m getting started on a farm table for our house and have ran into a snag. I have 6n wide 8/4 cherry that i plan to use for the top. I was going to run them through my planner(since i don’t have a jointer) to get the edges ready for glueing. The problem is my planner does want to raise above 3 1/2in. Would the table look strange if i ripped the boards to 3in and then made the top using them? I have been looking for examples but haven’t found any that appear to have narrower boards int he top. Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks


8 replies so far

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jmartel

8487 posts in 2566 days


#1 posted 08-07-2018 06:26 PM

Why not pick up a handplane? Should be able to get one fairly cheap. #6 or #7 would work fine.Then you can joint any width board.

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

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ArtMann

1396 posts in 1233 days


#2 posted 08-07-2018 06:49 PM

P-l-a-n-e-r. not p-l-a-n-n-e-r. If you were planning to use a table saw to rip the boards to width, why not buy a glue line rip blade and use it to straighten and flatten your edges before gluing? I do glue ups all the time using edges prepared that way and the result is the same whether they were jointed or ripped.

The more pieces you use to glue up a large surface, the more chance you will have of the edges not matching up exactly. You will need to plan for that problem no matter how you proceed.

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Woodknack

12842 posts in 2797 days


#3 posted 08-07-2018 07:54 PM



... If you were planning to use a table saw to rip the boards to width, why not buy a glue line rip blade and use it to straighten and flatten your edges before gluing? I do glue ups all the time using edges prepared that way and the result is the same whether they were jointed or ripped.

- ArtMann


+1
I don’t own a jointer and use my TS to joint edges and I’m happy to show closeups of any of my joinery/glue lines.

-- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

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Aj2

2321 posts in 2214 days


#4 posted 08-07-2018 08:00 PM

Have you read the thread edge jointing on the tablesaw. Apparently you don’t need a jointer.
Don’t rip them smaller it might make thing worse.

-- Aj

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Gibsonman

50 posts in 2004 days


#5 posted 08-07-2018 08:45 PM

Thanks for the help guys. I didn’t think about jointing with a table saw.
I do have hand planes it just seems like i mess the edge up when i try to joint them. On this length of wood(7 foot) i figured i would mess the edge up more then already they are.

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Aj2

2321 posts in 2214 days


#6 posted 08-07-2018 10:41 PM

Don’t feel bad hand planing the edge flat square and straight is not that easy.

-- Aj

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jmartel

8487 posts in 2566 days


#7 posted 08-07-2018 10:56 PM

You could always make a TS straight line ripping jig. Or use an edge guide and a circular saw (unless you have a track saw, in which case, use that). Both are free/cheap.

And jointing by hand is easier if you plane both edges of the mating pieces at the same time, and check with a long level. Fold them like a book so the top face is out on both boards. Once you get them flat/flush, and check that there’s no bumps with the straight edge, you should be open it up like a book and have it mate up.

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

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oldnovice

7487 posts in 3784 days


#8 posted 08-08-2018 06:51 PM

+1 for table saw jointing!

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

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