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Resawing - Newbie questions

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Forum topic by Brett posted 08-02-2018 11:15 AM 681 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Brett

56 posts in 586 days


08-02-2018 11:15 AM

This past spring my dad gave me his 18” Delta bandsaw (model 28-682). It’s a hefty bandsaw and I don’t have much experience with it (yet). I’ve never used a bandsaw before I got this one. I’ve tuned it up as best as I can (by watching videos online). Everything is setup correctly (as best as I can tell).

Anyway, I tried resawing a 7.5” wide board yesterday (was about 4 feet long and 1.25” thick) and botched it. I was using a 1/2” Timber Wolf 3TPI low tension blade. The blade is brand new so I don’t think it’s the issue.

I had my fence set and ran the board through. When I was 3/4 the way through the board I noticed that I had a gap between my fence and the board (the board was drifting away from the fence). The cut turned out horribly and I noticed it was a different thickness all the way through (started in the middle at the front of the board and then the side of the board against the fence got thinner as I went on – so my board drifted away from my fence).

Here is what I think I may have done wrong:
1) My fence wasn’t tall enough and therefore my board may not have been parallel to my blade.
2) I didn’t have a small block or fence on the opposite side of the board to help guide the wood along the fence.
3) I’m a newbie and I just need to practice.
4) My bandsaw could possible have some massive drift in the blade?

Is there anything I can do to find out what the issue is? I ended up purchasing a 1” 2/3 TPI blade last night from PS Wood as I read that when resawing, the wider the blade, the better. Did I waste my money?

Thanks in advance for the advice.


15 replies so far

View Oldtool's profile

Oldtool

2772 posts in 2584 days


#1 posted 08-02-2018 11:44 AM

Brett,
First, I don’t think you wasted your money, the wider the blade the better.
As for resawing, I’ve had good and bad experiences attempting to resaw. When I first tried it, it seemed to work fine, but then later attempts did exactly what you described. On my most recent project I needed to resaw some maple and nothing seemed to work well. I too viewed viewed all the YouTube videos, and read some magazine articles, and nothing corrected the problems.I got to the point where I was considering getting a Roubo frame saw kit to resaw, but didn’t follow through.
The only advise I can provide is that you use your tablesaw to kerf both sides of your board as deep as your saw will go, then use the bandsaw to finish. This will reduce the amount of wood the bandsaw needs to cut and provide a kerf for the blade to follow.
That’s it, that’s all I’ve got to offer.I’m a member of the Frustrated Resawing Guild of America.
In a nut shell, experiment and tinker with methods to see what works for you. Good luck.

-- "I am a firm believer in the people. If given the truth, they can be depended upon to meet any national crisis. The point is to bring them the real facts." - Abraham Lincoln

View gwilki's profile

gwilki

301 posts in 1867 days


#2 posted 08-02-2018 11:46 AM

Brett: I’m betting that you will get many opinions on this, but I have gotten the best luck by using a single point re-saw fence. I made the fence using plans that I found on the net when I was having the same issue that you had. Since using a single point fence, I have no problem at all. Even I can follow a line. :-) If you search on single point re-saw fence, you will see that I’m talking about. Assuming that your saw is properly set up, I’m sure that this will work for you.

-- Grant Wilkinson, Ottawa ON

View Brett's profile

Brett

56 posts in 586 days


#3 posted 08-02-2018 11:48 AM

Thanks for the reply Oldtool.

I am wondering if it would be easier to just use a pivot point on my fence and freehand the board through. I suppose I’ll have to play around with different methods and deal with scrap wood for a while.

I hope others can give their 2 cents on what I can try.

View Brett's profile

Brett

56 posts in 586 days


#4 posted 08-02-2018 11:51 AM



Brett: I m betting that you will get many opinions on this, but I have gotten the best luck by using a single point re-saw fence. I made the fence using plans that I found on the net when I was having the same issue that you had. Since using a single point fence, I have no problem at all. Even I can follow a line. :-) If you search on single point re-saw fence, you will see that I m talking about. Assuming that your saw is properly set up, I m sure that this will work for you.

- gwilki

Thanks for the tip! I was actually just responding to Oldtool and thinking this may be a way to go. I will have to give it a shot. Have you found that it’s harder to do this method with wider/longer stock?

View ChefHDAN's profile

ChefHDAN

1401 posts in 3243 days


#5 posted 08-02-2018 12:11 PM

I had many of the same problems you’ve described and give your #3 a thumbs up, the more I’ve screwed it up the better I’ve gotten.

I put the Kreg Band Saw Fence on my 14” saw, there was a package deal with both of the re saw parts, which are rounded so that I strike a line down the board and can “steer” the board through the cut.

I stare in wonder when I see guys on YouTube that take veneer slices off of a board like it’s nothing, but maybe one day, I’ll get there.

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View Brett's profile

Brett

56 posts in 586 days


#6 posted 08-02-2018 12:21 PM

Haha, it’s good to know that I’m not the only one dealing with this, ChefHDAN. Thanks for the encouragement.

View Jack Lewis's profile

Jack Lewis

442 posts in 1472 days


#7 posted 08-02-2018 01:17 PM

Oldtool:


The only advise I can provide is that you use your tablesaw to kerf both sides of your board as deep as your saw will go, then use the bandsaw to finish. This will reduce the amount of wood the bandsaw needs to cut and provide a kerf for the blade to follow.
- Oldtool

Thanks. I have been doing this work for so long that I had forgotten that tip taught to me by my chief in the navy in 1952.

-- "PLUMBER'S BUTT! Get over it, everybody has one"

View Steve's profile

Steve

1283 posts in 976 days


#8 posted 08-02-2018 01:49 PM

For that long of a piece, I would definitely look into a featherboard to help you hold the workpiece against the fence.

Also, there are ways to measure the drift and then you can adjust your fence accordingly.

I would try resawing a shorter piece and see what results you get. Keep practicing and keep track of things like, your push rate, type of wood, how much you’re slicing off, where you hold the wood, etc so you know what works and what doesn’t.

View Rich's profile

Rich

4491 posts in 983 days


#9 posted 08-02-2018 02:21 PM

I put a Laguna ReSaw King blade on mine and drift became a thing of the past. Since there is no set to the teeth, there’s no concern about the teeth leaning more to one side, which causes drift. Also, the carbide teeth are 0.05” and the blade backing is 0.025, so there is less overheating.

-- Knowledge is not skill. Knowledge plus ten thousand times is skill. -- Shinichi Suzuki

View jdh122's profile

jdh122

1073 posts in 3211 days


#10 posted 08-02-2018 02:55 PM

By following the Snodgrass bandsaw setup method (specifically the part about where to have the blade track on the top wheel) I’ve mostly eliminated drift. With a sharp blade and perfect setup on the guides I’m able to resaw pretty well now. I have a single point fence but don’t generally use it. I find a featherboard to be very useful too.

-- Jeremy, in the Acadian forests

View Brett's profile

Brett

56 posts in 586 days


#11 posted 08-02-2018 02:57 PM



By following the Snodgrass bandsaw setup method (specifically the part about where to have the blade track on the top wheel) I ve mostly eliminated drift. With a sharp blade and perfect setup on the guides I m able to resaw pretty well now. I have a single point fence but don t generally use it. I find a featherboard to be very useful too.

- jdh122

Thanks for the tip. I’ve watched the “Snodgrass” method of setting up a bandsaw on the Wood Whisperer’s YouTube channel. I will have to go through it again to ensure I’m doing all the things he suggests.

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

1920 posts in 997 days


#12 posted 08-02-2018 04:24 PM

We all feel your pain. Too many related posts to even try to list them. Here's a recent one.. As always, FIRST, follow the Snodgrass video to the letter before making your cuts.

Rich et al…seems like there should be a reference sticky somewhere for this and for the BS in general as it seems to be the most needed assistance asked for with links to helpful posts and videos. (To which Rich replies “Ok, then do it”.) I’m just not sure if there is a place on this site like others where common questions are addressed.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Rich's profile

Rich

4491 posts in 983 days


#13 posted 08-02-2018 08:13 PM


Rich et al…seems like there should be a reference sticky somewhere for this and for the BS in general as it seems to be the most needed assistance asked for with links to helpful posts and videos. (To which Rich replies “Ok, then do it”.) I m just not sure if there is a place on this site like others where common questions are addressed.

- Andybb

It is a shame that LJ doesn’t support sticky posts/threads so people can see right away what’s been covered (often ad nauseam).

I do take subjects I’ve responded to repeatedly and turn them into blog posts when I have the time and feel inclined to do so. It makes it easy to just post a link in response to questions.

I’d be happy to participate in a pool of knowledge through blog posts that we can all share. Perhaps maintain a master list among us. I know you’ve expanded on the lock miter stuff I wrote with some valuable information, Andy.

I still plan to add more to my Wood Defect and Damage Repair blog series. It just takes time I don’t often have to put together all of the prose in an understandable way and to take the photos that go with it.

-- Knowledge is not skill. Knowledge plus ten thousand times is skill. -- Shinichi Suzuki

View BenjaminButton1984's profile

BenjaminButton1984

5 posts in 454 days


#14 posted 08-03-2018 06:53 PM

What is a good fence to put on an older Delta bandsaw?

View ChefHDAN's profile

ChefHDAN

1401 posts in 3243 days


#15 posted 08-03-2018 07:07 PM

I was very happy when I replaced my OEM with the Kreg fence. I didn’t get the micro adjuster but should have.

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

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