What would be a good offer?

A good starting point for any of those three tools would be 50% of what the seller is asking. All three are way overpriced.

The two items pictured look like new or lightly used. That being said, I wouldn’t even offer $300 for the band saw and wouldnt consider the planer at all. My advice…keep looking.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

Agree on price suggestions. BTW, that planer is a nice little unit. There’s a lever on left that I believe allows the motor to assist in raising and lowering the head. Not mandatory but it can save a bit of hand cranking.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

No more than $300 for the bandsaw and $150 for the planer, they are very overpriced.

My experience with the 18” Griz BS was not good!
I would not want the tool, even if at no cost.
In fact, I gave it away!
Ira

-- Rustfever, Central California

Thanks for the replies guys! I did hear back from the seller. They are selling the woodworking shop tools of their dad who I don’t think is around anymore. I also don’t think they have an idea of real value of what they have. The person didn’t know the model number. Said there was a fence in a box for $75.
I think it’s all way over priced and I’ll just keep looking.

The switch replacement with a light switch is not a good sign. I’d pass unless they dropped the price a lot.

I’ve had that same bandsaw for about 15 years. Though it only has a 10” resew capacity, it wouldn’t be hard to make your own riser block. I actually have a 2” thick chunk of aluminum to do that, but have never followed through, as I never really needed it. Of course other stuff would have to be adapted for that purpose, same as when you do it on a 14” saw.

One flaw in it is that the miter slot is a bit narrow for a standard miter gauge. Fortunately, I have other ways of crosscutting and mitering. Also, the fence can’t be removed without removing the blade. Uses that bad old system of having a finger to grip the far end rail, which I also dislike heartily on table saws. A T-square fence is always better, in my experience.

I do remember not being happy with blade tracking when I first fired it up. I had learned with an earlier bandsaw that it’s possible for the lower wheel to be the culprit, and I was able to resolve that issue with a bit of shimming. I made a similar statement on another thread a while back, and was challenged on this. The argument was that the lower wheel shaft is fixed and cannot be adjusted. That’s not so on this saw. The shaft is mounted to a cast iron plate, which in turn bolts to the frame. Tweaking is not hard if you’re willing to go after it.

I think it’s a pretty good saw. I’m curious whether you guys who diss it are basing your negatives on experience, or some other source of judgement? I don’t see why a bad switch being replaced is a deal breaker. But I agree that $600 is too much for it.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

It’s not the fact that the switch was replaced, it’s that the switch was replaced improperly with the wrong product when a perfectly good replacement switch costs less than $20.

I have no personal experience with the saw.

I m curious whether you guys who diss it are basing your negatives on experience, or some other source of judgement?

- runswithscissors

My view is based on the fact it has a weak spine, poor tensioning capabilities, a fence that is more of a fence shaped object and generally extremely light weight for a 18” cast saw. The saw is an upsized version of the Delta 14” cast saw and uses the same type of wheel hinge in the tensioning assembly which is the weak point of the Delta and its clones. The wheel hinge is not even very beefed up over the Delta and made in typical quality of Chinese machines 25 years ago, not anywhere near the quality of the Asian saws today. The good thing is the spring is tiny for an 18” saw so it is harder to destroy the wheel hinge, it is basically a spring for a 14” saw.

The saw is OK for cutting contours with a 1/4” or 3/8” blade but you can’t look at it like it will have the resaw ability of the average 17/18 inch saw. In any case it is highly overpriced by at least a factor of two, IMO. The wiring itself doesn’t bother me, simple and cheap enough to rectify if a machine is priced right.

Runs with Scissors, I’ve got one similar and you can get 11 1/2” of resaw out of it if you nibble a little bit of sheet steel from the cover here and there so the upper guides can go up inside the top cover. Take a look. Maybe 1 square inch from the underside of the cover. Never even see it.

-- Bob Anderton - Austin, TX - Nova 3000 lathe, Alaskan Mark III mill, Husqavarna Saw