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Forum topic by Ceasar2017 posted 07-29-2018 07:38 AM 677 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Ceasar2017

10 posts in 848 days


07-29-2018 07:38 AM

I have a space against my wall where I have 2 shelves but there are few problems with them. only 12” wide. not very stable, and no wheels. I wanted to replace them with something I seen on youtube. The goal is to use it in an apartment (converted mill) and to look industrial (I already have several sheelved shelves/racks).

Main use would be like now.. cooking pots (including 20lbs cast iron cookware), tools like drills.. 24 pack of water and anything in between. I would want each shelf to support 100lbs easy.

For this I am going to attach 2 pics – 1 with basic/approx dimensions (both have to fit 55” max height and 84” length (42” x 2) and 30” width). My idea is to use 3/4” plywood and to sand it, cherry stain/seal it. I wanted to use plywood for 3 reasons: 1. price. 2. hard to find other things that are 30” wide and sturdy/cheap. 3. very sturdy. I was thinking of using something like 3 pieces of 1×10”, but I’d need to glue them, and cut them and I do not have place for that.

My idea is to just use plywood, have it precut at the homedepot

all sides/shelves would use 3/4 in. x 4 ft. x 4 ft. BC Sanded Pine Plywood and top maybe 3/4 in. x 4 ft. x 4 ft. PureBond Maple Plywood Project Panel

Here are my questions

1. what type of glue/screws to use. my thoughts 2-3” screws (not sure what type) and polyurethane glue? (maybe something better out there).

2. shelves would be 42” long and even if I screw them 4 screws on each side, i feel like it’s a long span not to bent. Without adding a middle separator shelf, is there something I can do to give it extra support?
(my guess, I would have to, if I want them to support 100lbs+ and use 2 brackets on each side for support.)

3. anything else I am missing/have not considered?

TIA!


11 replies so far

View Robert's profile

Robert

3436 posts in 1901 days


#1 posted 07-30-2018 03:25 PM

42” is too wide for a single thickness plywood. It will sag even with no weight on it.

On the shelves best to add the divider. You can also use 1×3 hardwood supports along each edge front and back to add support or double thickness plywood.

Use a coarse thread 2” long cabinet type screw to assemble the boxes. Liquid nails actually works pretty well on plywood.

If the unit will be wheeled around a lot, I would reinforce all the corners with 2×2’s.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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ChefHDAN

1417 posts in 3270 days


#2 posted 07-30-2018 05:21 PM

I’d say you’ll definitely need center support and also a strong base with the 2×2’s. Since you’re going to have the HD do the cutting you may want to consider using 1/2” ply and using 2 layers for your sides which would give the shelf additional support without having cleats along side the boxes. See the pics for how I’d do it, you’ll need to get your measurements to fit the space, and have a clear cut list prepared and also get lucky with a patient worker at HD willing to do more than rough cut.


-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

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Ceasar2017

10 posts in 848 days


#3 posted 07-30-2018 05:52 PM

thank you both for advice. ChefHDAN that’s a great pic, it helps me so MUCH!

I also want to have doors to close these. I think you both are right, I should be gluing 2×1/2” plywood instead of using single 3/4”. I will do that. my guess that will work my better for top/sides/bottom and using 3/4” for each shelf and 1/2” for support of that shelf.

my question is this then: for the base, do I screw the wheels directly into dual 1/2” plywood or maybe make base dual 3/4” and do I need to attach 4/4” blocks, maybe 2” thick for even support or would dual 3/4” plywood is enough?

for wheels, i have 2 sets of 4 of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZXW3M2Q

View ChefHDAN's profile

ChefHDAN

1417 posts in 3270 days


#4 posted 07-30-2018 09:44 PM

Ceasar, Welcome to LJ’s

No worries, I like to practice with Sketchup when I can. I can highly recommend taking the time to learn how to use it and there are lots of good tutorials on YouTube, plus it’s all free. I’ve gotten to where I build and design everything 2 or 3 times digitally first and then have a lot less butt scratching and mistakes in the shop

Doors are a whole other bit of skill, you’ll need to find the right style of hinge to use that will use a case hinge mount, consider battens on the inside of the door to help with the warping of the plywood. Most of the Euro hinges work with 3/4” stock and you’ll need a 35mm bit to drill the cup, Kreg makes a good jig with the bit for $30 and it’s set up for the Blum pattern which are great hinges

The layered 1/2” ply is just a work around for looks and strength, since I’m assuming you do not have a table saw and router to rout dados to hold the shelves, 3/4” ply is sufficient for your top, bottom, and shelves

The 2”x2” grid under the base will give great strength to the cabinet, at most maybe a square of 1/2” added at each caster location for some extra “meat” to screw into the base, but with the grid and 3/4” ply screwed & glued together, you’ll be fine. Make sure to place your casters as close to the corners as you can and still have full swivel. The 3” size will be slightly concealed by the grid and yet you should still be able to get to lock the front ones.

Good Luck

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

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Ceasar2017

10 posts in 848 days


#5 posted 07-30-2018 09:58 PM

my replies in-line.


Ceasar, Welcome to LJ s

No worries, I like to practice with Sketchup when I can. I can highly recommend taking the time to learn how to use it and there are lots of good tutorials on YouTube, plus it s all free. I ve gotten to where I build and design everything 2 or 3 times digitally first and then have a lot less butt scratching and mistakes in the shop

——i am useless at drawing. in earlier life, I had access to many drafting products, but I am just useless :(———

Doors are a whole other bit of skill, you ll need to find the right style of hinge to use that will use a case hinge mount, consider battens on the inside of the door to help with the warping of the plywood. Most of the Euro hinges work with 3/4” stock and you ll need a 35mm bit to drill the cup, Kreg makes a good jig with the bit for $30 and it s set up for the Blum pattern which are great hinges

——you are kindly scaring me here… i was hoping that just screwing in hidge on top/bottom and glueing a rare earth magnets would do the trick. i basically just want simple doors to keep dust/etc out…———-

The layered 1/2” ply is just a work around for looks and strength, since I m assuming you do not have a table saw and router to rout dados to hold the shelves, 3/4” ply is sufficient for your top, bottom, and shelves

——i do not, but most of the prep would be done by my friend and she has a saw and other things in the garage. i would prob want her to glue in 1/2” plywood once it’s cut and sanded. then paint the outside areas. and, we’d assemble it here
———

The 2”x2” grid under the base will give great strength to the cabinet, at most maybe a square of 1/2” added at each caster location for some extra “meat” to screw into the base, but with the grid and 3/4” ply screwed & glued together, you ll be fine. Make sure to place your casters as close to the corners as you can and still have full swivel. The 3” size will be slightly concealed by the grid and yet you should still be able to get to lock the front ones.

——I am not sure what you mean by 2×2 grid or where it would be located. would you please elaborate? the casters are heavy duty and are 5” tall and like 2lbs each. my max height is 55” that’s why I wrote initially 47” knowing that casters are 5” and to leave me some room for mistakes/improvements…
——-

thank you :)

Good Luck

- ChefHDAN


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ChefHDAN

1417 posts in 3270 days


#6 posted 07-31-2018 12:00 PM


Ceasar,

——i am useless at drawing. in earlier life, I had access to many drafting products, but I am just useless :(———

>> If you can picture it in your mind, Sketchup lets you build it, small learning curve, but even the basics like drawing a 4’x8’ of plywood and using the ruler to measure your cuts so you don’t waste any pieces is very handy

——you are kindly scaring me here… i was hoping that just screwing in hidge on top/bottom and glueing a rare earth magnets would do the trick. i basically just want simple doors to keep dust/etc out…———-

>> Your project, your design, the euro hinges are not that difficult and the Blum site is a great resource for finding exactly what kind of hinge you’d need… if you wanted a clean concealed look. Visible rustic style can work as well, just put in the time beforehand to figure out which hinge you’ll use and how and where it’ll screw to the cabinet.

——i do not, but most of the prep would be done by my friend and she has a saw and other things in the garage. i would prob want her to glue in 1/2” plywood once it s cut and sanded. then paint the outside areas. and, we d assemble it here
———

Sounds like a good plan, don’t paint any areas where you’ll be gluing the wood together, screw & glue is the strongest. If your friend has an 18g brad nailer, it’s a great trick to get things in place and held together with the brad nails while you pre drill and then sink the screws

——I am not sure what you mean by 2×2 grid or where it would be located. would you please elaborate? the casters are heavy duty and are 5” tall and like 2lbs each. my max height is 55” that s why I wrote initially 47” knowing that casters are 5” and to leave me some room for mistakes/improvements…
——-

It’s the frame on the bottom side of the cabinet, 2nd pic above, you’ll attach your casters to the flat inside the bottom grid putting a 2” “skirt” around the bottom. The rough drawing, (1st pic) is 46” tall, your 5” caster will recess 2” under the base giving you a total height of 49”

Good Luck

- ChefHDAN


-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

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bondogaposis

5454 posts in 2772 days


#7 posted 07-31-2018 03:00 PM

3. anything else I am missing/have not considered?

Making base cabinets wider than 24” is going to waste as lot of plywood. The standard for kitchen base cabinets is 23 1/4” width, add a 3/4” face frame and you have a 24” base cabinet. There is almost no waste with that configuration. If you cut your plywood to 30 1/2” what are you going to do with the other 17 1/2”? You will double the amount of plywood that you need to buy over the 24” standard.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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Ceasar2017

10 posts in 848 days


#8 posted 07-31-2018 11:28 PM



3. anything else I am missing/have not considered?

Making base cabinets wider than 24” is going to waste as lot of plywood. The standard for kitchen base cabinets is 23 1/4” width, add a 3/4” face frame and you have a 24” base cabinet. There is almost no waste with that configuration. If you cut your plywood to 30 1/2” what are you going to do with the other 17 1/2”? You will double the amount of plywood that you need to buy over the 24” standard.

- bondogaposis

hi
i def appreciate that observation. I had the same one. But, i am not making cabinets per say as I understand it. I am more looking at it was a mobile storage//toolbox. My thought of left overs to use them to reinforce corners or split the shelves for extra support. have not thought about it.

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Ceasar2017

10 posts in 848 days


#9 posted 07-31-2018 11:39 PM

I think I see what you’re saying. We have to decide on doors. My friend is pushing me towards somewhat stylish ones, but I am not sure.. I think I just may want to paint it black. Right now, trying to find nice black paint that’s a bit glossy but most importantly sturdy.

Ceasar,

——i am useless at drawing. in earlier life, I had access to many drafting products, but I am just useless :(———

>> If you can picture it in your mind, Sketchup lets you build it, small learning curve, but even the basics like drawing a 4×8 of plywood and using the ruler to measure your cuts so you don t waste any pieces is very handy

——you are kindly scaring me here… i was hoping that just screwing in hidge on top/bottom and glueing a rare earth magnets would do the trick. i basically just want simple doors to keep dust/etc out…———-

>> Your project, your design, the euro hinges are not that difficult and the Blum site is a great resource for finding exactly what kind of hinge you d need… if you wanted a clean concealed look. Visible rustic style can work as well, just put in the time beforehand to figure out which hinge you ll use and how and where it ll screw to the cabinet.

——i do not, but most of the prep would be done by my friend and she has a saw and other things in the garage. i would prob want her to glue in 1/2” plywood once it s cut and sanded. then paint the outside areas. and, we d assemble it here
———

Sounds like a good plan, don t paint any areas where you ll be gluing the wood together, screw & glue is the strongest. If your friend has an 18g brad nailer, it s a great trick to get things in place and held together with the brad nails while you pre drill and then sink the screws

——I am not sure what you mean by 2×2 grid or where it would be located. would you please elaborate? the casters are heavy duty and are 5” tall and like 2lbs each. my max height is 55” that s why I wrote initially 47” knowing that casters are 5” and to leave me some room for mistakes/improvements…
——-

It s the frame on the bottom side of the cabinet, 2nd pic above, you ll attach your casters to the flat inside the bottom grid putting a 2” “skirt” around the bottom. The rough drawing, (1st pic) is 46” tall, your 5” caster will recess 2” under the base giving you a total height of 49”

Good Luck

- ChefHDAN

- ChefHDAN


View Ceasar2017's profile

Ceasar2017

10 posts in 848 days


#10 posted 08-23-2018 04:46 PM

To give you guys an update:

1. I decided to go with 48×48 plywood sheets for 1 unit. which means the walls would be 1/2” x 2 48” tall and top same and bottom probably 3/4×2. which should be that 48” + 3” + 6” wheels total height. width will also be 48” with middle being braced by a 3/4” splitting into 2×23”. Horizontal will be 1 middle shelf and 2 adjustable. Bottom, i am not sure if I want to do lattice, i think it’s prob a good idea though.

2. for connects, I want to use prob grk 2 1/2” cabinet screws and titebond 2 or 3 glue.
3. my biggest q is the doors. my friend is trying to push me towards something premade, even something on a track or something thats much nicer than we can make… do you guys have any advice or ideas? especially if premade. I want to ideally have 2×24 opening doors but not completely ruling out other ideas

the second cabinet will be much taller, probably 66/68” tall. I need to be below 76” for total height. rest similar but using cut 96” plywood, which probably be a bear to work with.

tia :)

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Ceasar2017

10 posts in 848 days


#11 posted 09-24-2018 01:23 AM

Hi everyone,

We started to narrow down the design. size will be ~50” tall, 30” deep with shelves recessed 27” and 3” to allow for doors to have pegboard on the inside.

We settled on using 3/4” plywood (baltic birch) for sides due to not being able to glue large size plywood pieces at home. For top, we’ll use normal 3/4” plywood and for base glued 1/2” x 2. For back, we are going to use 1/2” plywood. idea is to use kreg pocket screws to join everything and glue it (1.25” screws every 2”). Base will also have extra 3/4” 4” squares (plywood cutoffs) for more support for wheels, sank with 1.75” screws. For shelves, which will be approx 27×24, we’ll glue 3/8” x 2 (I think that will make them more rigid than 3/4” but if I am wrong, please correct me).

For actual shelf support we are going to use something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006FKP86 and appropriate nails and tabs. It’s rated for 500lbs (sounds crazy but maybe typo on the brochure) and each shelf will have dual track (8” recessed from front and back), so each shelf will sit on 4 tabs and can be adjustable.

I did some calculations and it seems max, max shelves should have 100lbs, maybe 150 and if I need 150lbs+, i can put it on lowest shelf which will have dual 1/2” plywood base.

We are buying plywood this week and hopefully will have it done in 4-6 weeks (living is a small apartment with no work space sucks).

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