Paste Wax Recipes?

For cutting boards, I mix 4 parts mineral oil to one part beeswax, then add a little orange oil for scent. I give a small container of it to anyone that buys a cutting board from me.

-- Bondo Gaposis

Here are a few options. I’ve made the soft wax, but not the others yet.

Link

What is the application? Only place for a nondrying wax and/or oil finish is something where utensils are use, such as a cutting board or salad bowl. I suppose a shelf trinket that isnt handled, but even then it has to be renewed.

What is the application? Only place for a nondrying wax and/or oil finish is something where utensils are use, such as a cutting board or salad bowl. I suppose a shelf trinket that isnt handled, but even then it has to be renewed.

- OSU55

Hi OSU55,

At the moment I am thinking about the finish I will use on a new European Oak coffee table. I am wanting a finish that will bring out the fantastic wood, with not too much darkening. For practical purposes, I would use a poly varnish so it was safe for hot coffee cups etc, but I do not want to hide too much of the grain.

Thanks.

If using poly do not put any wax under it or oil on top of it. There is no need for blo under oil based poly, the poly creates chatoyance on its own. Read about oils, blo, poly here. I use dye to color. I discuss mixing it into the poly in the blog, or the wood can be dyed directly. Just use a paste wax on the cured poly if you want, no need for a special concoction. You can see some examples in my projects.

I use “paste wax” (a combination of boiled linseed oil, turpentine and beeswax) for my handtool handles or things that I want really smooth, as well as renewable. I really enjoy the feel of a saw handle or chisel handle that has paste wax on it. It’s easy to polish it or wipe on some more if it gets old/worn. Anything like furniture I’ll use lacquer or poly on. Also, paste wax doesn’t do all that well if you get water on the wood…

-- Pete