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Refurbing a Grizzly 20" Planer

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Forum topic by redham posted 07-22-2018 03:26 AM 1885 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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redham

50 posts in 1052 days


07-22-2018 03:26 AM

I just acquired a Grizzly G1033 at a rock bottom price. According to the previous owner the blades need to be changed. It came out of a shop that had multiple hands using it so there are quick shops fixes with the unit.

I plan to tear it down, clean it out, change the oil and re-calibrate everything. This is project will probably take me a while so I might was well the blade issue going first.

Do I replace the blades or have them sharpened? New blades are $99.95 without shipping. If sharpened, can anyone refer a place? And I no, I am not shelling out $1k for a spiral cutter head.


16 replies so far

View Bob5103's profile

Bob5103

150 posts in 1436 days


#1 posted 07-22-2018 11:33 AM

Personally I would do both. Order new blades, send out the old for sharpening and keep them as spares. That way you are never down waiting for sharp blades. I am really jealous, I would love to find a good deal on a 20” planer!

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GR8HUNTER

6797 posts in 1314 days


#2 posted 07-22-2018 12:34 PM

whats a rock bottom price ?
i mean if you got a great deal on it … should not bother you to spend say $100.00 on a brand new set of blades !

let us know what you did :<))

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

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redham

50 posts in 1052 days


#3 posted 07-22-2018 08:29 PM

Well the blades are just the start of it. I do have to get other parts which can add up pretty quickly. I haven’t cracked it open yet so I no idea whats under the hood. Right off the top the elevator gear box mechanism is gone along with the top roller . The handle is attached directly on elevator rod. It works, but the OCD in me will need me to restore these components.

It was more obscene than rock bottom price. For some reason I have been finding a lot of stuff at pretty crazy prices.

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

2346 posts in 1205 days


#4 posted 07-22-2018 09:54 PM

How about a picture? What is a “rock bottom” price??

-- Andy - Seattle USA

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TheFridge

10859 posts in 2088 days


#5 posted 07-22-2018 10:14 PM

Send them out for sharpening. It’ll be cheaper than a new set but you should keep another on hand as you probably can’t run out and pick up a set if needed.

New belts and bearings and you won’t have to touch it again for years.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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redham

50 posts in 1052 days


#6 posted 07-23-2018 03:46 AM

Sorry for the crappy pic. The “beast” is in a corner now since I am in the middle of a cabinet build and I have no room to pull it out.

I have been watching tube videos by Grizzly on how to setup and calibrate one of these. Only problem with these videos are setting up new machine and refurb’ing an old one is little different. Belts are a pretty easy tell and I didn’t hear any rattling when it test run. I think will probably run a board to listen for bearing rattling under load.

View CaptainKlutz's profile

CaptainKlutz

2208 posts in 2096 days


#7 posted 07-23-2018 04:19 PM

FWIW – Exposed 4 post planers are nearly same ‘cloned’ design in both 20” and 15” versions. Due to more common use of 15” versions by us very poor hobbyist, there are more WWW threads/posts on refurb and upgrade of 15” models. You might find information on Grizzly g1021 and Jet JWP-15H which is same design in 15” model useful?

Have refurbished a couple 15” versions, and some of best pictorials on how these machines are disassembled/assembled is from posts on Bryd shelix head conversions, such as here or here. These are good references for refurbishing process, even if you do not upgrade to segmented cutter heads.

Last but not least, OWWM does not cover Asian machinery directly, But the do support some information on US mfg that had planers made in Taiwan in forums. Also have nice section #2.8 on WIKI that covers material useful for any planer.

Enjoy your new toy!

-- I'm an engineer not a woodworker, but I can randomly find useful tools and furniture inside a pile of lumber!

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redham

50 posts in 1052 days


#8 posted 07-26-2018 01:56 AM

Thanks for the links. There really isn’t much written on 20”ies. The videos I have been watching by Grizzly are all on 15”ers which I know are transferable.

This machine will not be used much and it is taking up some serious space in the garage but it was hard to pass up. I think my college girlfriends car, GEO Prism, was smaller than this planar.

View Holbs's profile

Holbs

2258 posts in 2631 days


#9 posted 07-26-2018 05:26 PM

My blog shows my many blog entries of complete tear down of my Jet 15” planer, all the way down to nuts/bolts/bearings. You are about to venture down where I have gone :)
Off top of my head, I would certainly consider installing new bearings all around for a teardown. I used high quality / highly recommended Japanese bearings (listed in my blog entries). Make sure you know how to set planer knives via dial indicators or jig.
In the mean time, send out your knives for professional sharpening and purchase a 2nd standby set. I am lucky as there is a local knife sharpening location in my town. 3 knives at 15” for $20.

-- The Carpenter Bee is derived from the Ancient Greek word wood-cutter "xylokopos/ξυλοκὀπος"

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redham

50 posts in 1052 days


#10 posted 07-27-2018 01:33 AM

@Holbs Thanks for the reply.

I surfed your blog a little on your Jet. Nice job on the find and rebuild. Luckily my Grizzly doesn’t have the rust that you had to deal with. It looks like that was what took the majority of your time. It was in commercial shop subjected to probably not the best care but it wasn’t neglected. There are some missing parts, but it is operational.

I am trying to gather and pre-order as many parts before I start the process. I don’t have room that you have to do a complete tear down nor do I think it will be necessary. If I take it apart in my garage, it will occupy the garage and not let me work on anything else so I have to try to schedule this as best as I can. On that note, did you manually measure out the bearings and then ordered them? I have never ordered bearings before. Grizzly parts list names a “Ball Bearing 6204”. Are the numerals standardized? So all I have to do is order Nxxxx 6204?

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Holbs

2258 posts in 2631 days


#11 posted 07-27-2018 02:17 AM

as other’s will note… there are actually only a few bearings that matter to machinery, 6204 and 6205 would be the top selections.
All other parts should be salvaged, just need new bearings & oil (specific oil, mind you…. I forget the weight).

-- The Carpenter Bee is derived from the Ancient Greek word wood-cutter "xylokopos/ξυλοκὀπος"

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

10859 posts in 2088 days


#12 posted 07-27-2018 02:27 AM

Most bearings are typical light duty 6200 series as holbs pointed out. Not always. Bearings that aren’t metric are odd balls. Always pays to measure with some calipers.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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redham

50 posts in 1052 days


#13 posted 07-27-2018 03:55 AM

Going back to blades … OEM Grizzly has the set for $99.99, Ebay has 89.99 US seller or 49.99 direct from china.

Any other sources for blades?

I was window shopping the Shelix head..very temping.

View CaptainKlutz's profile

CaptainKlutz

2208 posts in 2096 days


#14 posted 07-27-2018 04:43 AM


@Holbs Thanks for the reply.
On that note, did you manually measure out the bearings and then ordered them? I have never ordered bearings before. Grizzly parts list names a “Ball Bearing 6204”. Are the numerals standardized? So all I have to do is order Nxxxx 6204?
- redham

Bearings can sneaky.
Sorry to suggest what you do not want, but I would tear down and check bearing sizes before ordering. You may end up with wrong parts and have to wait regardless? These planers have built for very long time, and there have been some minor changes. Also the bearing part numbers in parts list are usually not complete, and you may order wrong bearing type.
Example – Many of bearings inside 2 planers I rebuilt were 6200 ZZ series. The ZZ denoting double seals with steel outer shields. BUT:
bearings inside the gear box located below the oil line were unsealed & unshielded, or open bearings.
and
Bearings in the 4 posts for height setting were only shielded on top side, with a single Z suffix.
[I used dbl sealed versions as they were almost same price as single version.]

If you order the bearings from Grizzly, they should send you proper replacement parts. If you try to save money and order bearings elsewhere, you will need to check configuration along with size.

Besides ordering bearings online from someone like Accurate Bearings or VXB; in most major cities there are wholesale bearing suppliers that should have exactly what you need in stock, same day pickup. Here in AZ we have Bearing, Belt, and Chain and they carry both cheap low quality Chinese bearings and better quality non-Chinese bearings. Their prices are similar to online pricing, so I seldom order bearings online. FWIW – Places like Motion Industries or Grainger CAN sell for bearings/seals for reasonable prices, but the usually charge more, essentially full retail for customers without a commercial account.

Best Luck.

PS – regarding blades: I rotate between a set of T1 HSS blades and set of A2 HSS blades for my planer. The T1 seem to last a little longer than A2, and both last longer than cheap PowerTec M2 HSS blades. Holbren and Oella Saw both sell each type for reasonable prices.

-- I'm an engineer not a woodworker, but I can randomly find useful tools and furniture inside a pile of lumber!

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redham

50 posts in 1052 days


#15 posted 08-01-2018 12:33 AM

Here is a quick peek with the hood open. Was waiting for paint to dry, literally just sprayed the cabinet doors, so I decided to undo a few bolts.

There are few decent knicks on the blades. Hopefully these can still sharpened out.

The feed table, overall, has natural wear for a commercial machine. There are about 4-5 track on the surface that doesn’t look like it can be sanded out. The deepest track is about 1/6” deep. I will sand it down to clean it up and probably use Penetrol to coat and fill in the tracks.

Little dusty with saw dust but a little WD40 and Mineral Spirits should clean this up.

Everything seems to roll pretty smoothly. I am hoping to get away without having to change the bearings as that would require much deeper tear down. I will clean it up first, install new blades, grease the columns and change oils to see how it runs.

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