Sharpening with a bench grinder

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Forum topic by curliejones posted 07-17-2018 12:02 PM 831 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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188 posts in 3043 days

07-17-2018 12:02 PM

Topic tags/keywords: bench grinder chisels hand tools sharpening

A two/three part ??
I’ve read about one technique for sharpening shop tools where the guy recommended starting and stopping his bench grinder to sharpen chisels, etc. It lets him use his single speed grinder and catch the steel at diminishing speeds. I don’t do a lot of sharpening and I wonder if this start and stop technique is hard on a good motor or just puts wear on the on-off switch?
If indeed it is not that bad for the motor, could / should a momentary foot switch be used and leave the grinder switch in the “on” position? As long as the amp rating is high enough for the switch, would a Big Foot switch for trolling motors work OK? A 15A rating on a switch and a grinder that is rated at 5A , for example?

-- Like Guy Clark sez - "Sometimes I use my head, Sometimes I get a bigger hammer"

9 replies so far

View Bill White's profile (online now)

Bill White

5290 posts in 4737 days

#1 posted 07-17-2018 12:28 PM

NNNOOO!!! on the trolling motor!!!! Different animal for a different purpose. If you must pursue the start/stop process (which I don’t value), get a momentary foot switch designed for the proper AC induction motor.
I use one on my router table, but that’s a totally different story.

-- [email protected]

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10859 posts in 2263 days

#2 posted 07-17-2018 11:23 PM

Not good for the motor. Once or twice is one thing. More than that is another.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View Mr_Pink's profile


193 posts in 1149 days

#3 posted 07-17-2018 11:55 PM

I don’t know about the effects on the motor, but this would certainly overcomplicate the process of grinding.

View theart's profile


192 posts in 1331 days

#4 posted 07-18-2018 12:57 PM

It lets him use his single speed grinder and catch the steel at diminishing speeds.

I can’t see any reason why this would be useful. Steel doesn’t care how fast the stone is moving. Full speed, light touch, and let the blade cool between passes.

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Don W

19621 posts in 3345 days

#5 posted 07-18-2018 03:57 PM

The faster it moves the quicker it build heat. That way we say a slow speed grinder is best, but with care, a normal grinder works well. Go slow, quench often, and you’ll be ok.

I often take several passes then set it in the water and focus on something else for a few minutes if it’s a long term grinding op.

-- - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

View RHutch's profile


11 posts in 3831 days

#6 posted 07-19-2018 04:19 PM

I’m in agreement with the full speed and regular cooling in water. I’ll add that I don’t use my grinder for sharpening ever. It’s just there to reshape misused tools found at yard sales.

-- Hutch, Rhode Island

View MrRon's profile


5913 posts in 4020 days

#7 posted 07-19-2018 05:39 PM

If you use an aluminum oxide wheel (white), it won’t heat up the steel as much as a carborundum wheel will. A grinder is used to shape tools, not to sharpen them. After reshaping the tool, then you sharpen it using stones or diamond. Sanding belts are out for sharpening. They round over the edge.

View Karda's profile


2292 posts in 1331 days

#8 posted 07-19-2018 05:50 PM

I have never used this method but done see a use for it other than very small to that would burn easily. I read one turner used that method for his under .25 inch skews because even regular slow speed would burn them, makes sense

View bandit571's profile


25921 posts in 3460 days

#9 posted 07-19-2018 06:29 PM

Maybe find one of these?

And use it….WEN Wet Wheel.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

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