Gorilla glue

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Forum topic by woodman71 posted 07-04-2011 10:28 PM 2302 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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162 posts in 3656 days

07-04-2011 10:28 PM

I’m building a outdoor table and chairs .The chairs have mortise and tendon joints I had to laminate the chair posts to get 2 1/4 inch square post . I used gorilla glue the one that requires water “moisture” to help set up and it also expands . I have used this glue in the past and it works great don’t care for the mess it makes. I went and brought the other Gorilla glue the white one. I was reading the back and it says it water resistant type 2 can any one tell me what that means . It also said not recommended for structural or load bearing applications the same for tite bond 2 so I’m still using the first Gorilla glue I mention at the begin. So what is the best outdoor glue to use that doesn’t make a mess and a lot of clean up . What do you all use thanks for you input.

5 replies so far

View scopemonkey's profile


191 posts in 4496 days

#1 posted 07-04-2011 10:42 PM

A few years ago, one of the magazines (I believe Wood) did an article comparing PVA, polyurethane, and epoxy in outdoor applications. They all did fairly well. Polyurethane offered no advantages over water resistant PVA or epoxy. For ease of application and clean up, I use Tightbond 3. Polyurethane creates a mess to clean up.

And I forgot to say….Polyurethane may expand, but it is not structurally “gap filling” like epoxy. If your mortise/tenons are loose, don’t rely on Gorilla glue to help out.

-- GSY from N. Idaho

View Bob Kollman's profile

Bob Kollman

1798 posts in 3523 days

#2 posted 07-05-2011 03:18 AM

For mortise and tenon joints I’d also use the titebond 3. Gorilla, glue is probably not a good application for
out door furniture. I have never heard of any one using it for outdoor furniture, where tightbond 3 is a very
common application for outdoor stuff. Menards does have epoxy’s that work well with outdoor wood applications
Also if your using the cedar here in town menards or lowes, this stuff is dripping wet, no glue will set in that stuff.
Kettle moraine hardwoods has nice dry cedar.

-- Bob Kenosha Wi.

View gfadvm's profile


14940 posts in 3022 days

#3 posted 07-05-2011 04:01 AM

TB 3. I have used this stuff to laminate a new transom for my son in laws gigging boat. Not only does the boat go in the water, it lives outside year around. Project is 3 years old and still solid.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View David Kirtley's profile

David Kirtley

1286 posts in 3330 days

#4 posted 07-05-2011 05:32 AM

I have given up on polyurethane glue and converted to epoxy personally. Polyurethane is more expensive than epoxy, isn’t as water resistant, doesn’t fill gaps as well, requires more clamping pressure, and has less open time. Polyurethane is also really messy as you have noticed.

The PVA glues (regular carpenters glue) are fine but I really like Titebond III for general use. The white Gorilla glue(PVA) is fine but the Titebond III can do anything it can do along with being more water resistant. I also don’t have to keep more types of glue on hand. I have a big gallon jug and pour into roller applicators when I use it.

-- Woodworking shouldn't cost a fortune:

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

5190 posts in 4293 days

#5 posted 07-06-2011 01:59 AM

Just use 2 part resin glue. Forget about glue joint failure with that stuff. It is bullet (and water) proof.

-- [email protected]

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