best product for gluing metal threaded wood inserts that have failed

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Forum topic by JohnFromCanada posted 07-05-2018 09:21 PM 3737 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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3 posts in 568 days

07-05-2018 09:21 PM

Hi guys.

I work as a handyman for a moving company. I do mainly plumbing and electrical but from time to time I have to assemble furniture and fix whatever the movers broke. I also like to do the occasional project on my own, although since the divorce I no longer have a home or a workshop.

Anyway… one of our customers has a couple of baby cribs to assemble. But as I was putting them together I noticed the threaded wood inserts were coming loose and will no longer make a tight fit. This young family has moved several times so I’m not the first one to be putting this furniture together for them. I suspect someone before me over tightened the bolts or wasn’t careful removing them.

It looks like they just need to be glued back in but I’m not sure what is the best product to use for this. I don’t want to use the wrong product and have glue ooze into the inside thread and make the reassembly more difficult. And I don’t want the repair to fail either. It’s been very hot and humid but we have a few days to finish this project and the boss has approved two service calls so it’s no problem using the right product to glue the inserts back in and then wait a couple days for the stuff to cure before reassembling.


16 replies so far

View jonah's profile


2092 posts in 3906 days

#1 posted 07-05-2018 09:24 PM

I’d use epoxy. You’ll want to be very careful to not get any on the interior threads, but it’s not too hard to do. It may help to make sure there’s room at the bottom of the hole for some extra epoxy to squeeze into without coming back up into the threads.

View JohnFromCanada's profile


3 posts in 568 days

#2 posted 07-05-2018 09:59 PM

Epoxy. That’s what I’ve been reading in my google searches. Is there a particular brand that’s right for this kind of project? I need to bond wood to metal.

And I’d prefer something I can leave in my pickup in all kinds of weather so I have it when I need it. I don’t mind mixing it up beforehand.

And what’s the bottom line on cure times? I saw some that say 30 minute cure time. Is that realistic?


View squazo's profile


140 posts in 2253 days

#3 posted 07-05-2018 11:55 PM

Pretty much any brand of epoxy is good. Loctite, gorilla, 3m are some I’ve used before. They will say what they are for specifically on the package most will bond a wide variety of materials. The cure time is not what it says on the front of the package. That is open work time. You must give all (with special industrial exception). Epoxy 24 hours to cure. Make sure to get the kind that comes with mixing tubes, it’s sort of a syringe looking thing, usually available on the quick setting variety.

View Woodknack's profile


13017 posts in 2987 days

#4 posted 07-06-2018 01:43 AM

Quicker the epoxy, the weaker. So 5 minute epoxy will be weaker than 30 minute, but will hold sooner.

-- Rick M,

View gwilki's profile


330 posts in 2081 days

#5 posted 07-06-2018 12:08 PM

I use this one from Lee Valley quite a bit.,110,42965&ap=1

I mix up what I need on a small piece of wax paper using a popsicle stick. It sets quickly, but really needs over night to achieve final strength.

-- Grant Wilkinson, Ottawa ON

View theart's profile


154 posts in 1162 days

#6 posted 07-06-2018 01:22 PM

I d use epoxy. You ll want to be very careful to not get any on the interior threads, but it s not too hard to do. It may help to make sure there s room at the bottom of the hole for some extra epoxy to squeeze into without coming back up into the threads.

- jonah

Or put a nylon screw, maybe with just a touch of grease on it, into the insert before gluing it in.

View ocean's profile


196 posts in 1441 days

#7 posted 07-06-2018 03:10 PM

I agree with theart. If your bolts pass through the insert, be aware that the epoxy you use will fill flow into any void below the insert. If your bolt has to extend pass the insert, you need to put in bolt to fill that space and not let epoxy flow in. The nylon bolt with silicone grease is what I use and has never failed. Be careful not to put to much epoxy in the hole or it may squirt out the top and make a mess.

-- Bob, FL Keys

View bilyo's profile


961 posts in 1710 days

#8 posted 07-06-2018 09:48 PM

I agree with using epoxy. 5, 30, or 60 min variety probably doesn’t matter too much. Just be aware that those times are only for initial set up; not full cure. Let them set for 24-48 hours to fully cure. Before installing them with the epoxy, thoroughly wax or silicone spray the bolt and screw it into the insert the same or beyond the depth it will need to be when the bed is put together. Then install both together into the bed part and use tape or some method to hold it in alignment if necessary. Wait until the epoxy has gone somewhat beyond it’s initial set, but not fully cured, you can carefully remove the bolt and then let the epoxy fully cure before final assembly. Caution the owner to not over tighten during future assembly.

View waho6o9's profile


8812 posts in 3184 days

#9 posted 07-06-2018 10:07 PM

View Richard's profile


11309 posts in 3640 days

#10 posted 07-06-2018 10:41 PM


- waho6o9

YEP^^ !

-- Richard (Ontario, CANADA)

View runswithscissors's profile


3081 posts in 2633 days

#11 posted 07-08-2018 01:43 AM

I distrust the epoxy syringes that mix the two parts automatically. This is because every epoxy I’ve ever used emphasizes the importance of very thorough mixing, so that all the molecules make contact with their counterparts. West System says to mix for at least one minute. I don’t think the epoxy mixing tubes do this adequately. Of course you could use them, then do extra mixing to make sure.

Even after epoxy has started to stiffen, you can still use it. Epoxy doesn’t “dry,” it cures (chemical reaction). Mixed with sanding dust, it makes an excellent filler, easily stained. Even straight oil or varnish will darken an epoxy patch, no stain needed.

Don’t get it on your hands. An allergic reaction is possible. Repeated exposure makes this more likely. The idea above about using a nylon screw in the insert to keep epoxy out of the threads is excellent. Epoxy does not stick to most plastics, including nylon and polyethene or polypropylene.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View MrRon's profile


5811 posts in 3851 days

#12 posted 07-08-2018 08:03 PM

The best epoxy to use for this application, in my opinion is JB weld, available everywhere.

View jonah's profile


2092 posts in 3906 days

#13 posted 07-08-2018 08:47 PM

The two tubes are for dispensing. You’re supposed to squeeze it out onto a surface (I use paper plates or pieces of cardboard) and then further mix it. You’d never apply directly from the syringe onto the work piece.

I use popsicle sticks to mix and apply the epoxy to the work surface.

View JohnFromCanada's profile


3 posts in 568 days

#14 posted 07-09-2018 10:27 PM

Thanks for all the great tips. I used the LePage epoxy because it was the only one they had that came in a large size. I glued the wood inserts on Friday and assembled the crib this morning after letting it cure over the weekend. our customer is very happy with how it turned out and is hiring me to to do some other handyman work.

View bilyo's profile


961 posts in 1710 days

#15 posted 07-10-2018 01:26 PM

Good work! Congratulations. Do we get a cut? ;>)

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