Kashiwado Chair

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Forum topic by Warren posted 06-26-2011 04:14 PM 3761 views 2 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Warren 's profile


66 posts in 3840 days

06-26-2011 04:14 PM

Topic tags/keywords: cedar chair exterior glue choice titebond iii west systems carving sculpting

Hey All,

Im looking for a bit of advise as Ive been commisioned to reproduce the Kashiwado Chair shown in the images attached. Im really excited to give it a go but I wanted to hear the forums voice on a couple of points.

1) The chair will be placed outside, but in a covered space. They will not get wet other than exceptional circumstances but will be exposed to everything else mother nature throws at us. Fortunately the chairs were orignaly made of Cedar and from my experiacen thats a good wood for exterior furniture, not the best but pretty close. Any disagreement?
2) As it is going to be outside I am a little concerned about all the glue ups. It is made of squarish section glued together and I am wondering what is my best option for glue. I would normally use Titebond III for an indoor and maybe even outdoor projects but as there are so many joints I cant afford any failures. So, do I plain glue em with Titebond III, glue them with dominos, or go all out and bring out the West Sytems and be sure it’ll hold?
3) Finally, if anyone has any tips regarding sculpting something like this I would really appreciate your thoughts as its going to be my first sculpted piece. I will be using my arbortech for the meaty bits but then Im not so sure there Ill go with it tool wise.

Thanks all!

-- Im more succesfull at making sawdust than I am at making furniture

7 replies so far

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 4208 days

#1 posted 06-26-2011 05:16 PM

I’d be really concerned about customer expectations of an exterior
piece with a lot of exposed end grain in softwood.

It will crack, in my opinion. If the customer is cool with that, great.

If not…

View Bluepine38's profile


3387 posts in 3646 days

#2 posted 06-26-2011 06:51 PM

How good is the budget? Purple heart, ipe (epay), and similar woods are the best for outdoor use, but
will require good dust control. They are expensive, one customer did not complain at the price of over
$1000 for the stainless fasteners for their exterior furniture, but another might complain about 5 cents.
Cypress might also be an option. I have seen pine that has lasted, but the builder used a real good oil
type finish and renewed it every year, so a lot will depend on your customer and the way the chair is
cared for, just took another look at the chair, those pieces all look 4” thick or better, so that is going to
limit your wood choice. Good luck on this project, and please keep us posted.

-- As ever, Gus-the 80 yr young apprentice carpenter

View Warren 's profile


66 posts in 3840 days

#3 posted 06-26-2011 08:18 PM

Gus, Cedar was chosen as he already has some pieces out there in Cedar and I also made him an Ipe piece last year so he want something lighter to contrast with it. I already have a 1/2 ton of Cedar in my shop so I cant really switch now! Its monstrous stuff, just over 4” thick, 18” wide and 25’ long! I always use Sikkens products to finish my exterior projects and have so far never had a problem with any of them. Its expensive but lasts years.

Loren, I hadn’t really consider the end grain as an issue to be honest, has anyone else out there experienced significant cracking on Cedar?


-- Im more succesfull at making sawdust than I am at making furniture

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 4208 days

#4 posted 06-26-2011 08:34 PM

What’s significant? How much of wood’s natural drying
behavior will your client tolerate without getting
angry at you?

End grain absorbs and loses moisture much faster than long
grain. That’s why joints open up at the ends and why
wood checks more at the ends.

Get clear with your client about expectations, your warranty,
maintenance and so forth.

That chair you’re copying sells for 10 grand. There’s a reason for that.

Build ongoing maintenance and refinishing into the price or clarify
the limits of your warranty. If the client leaves the chair in the sun,
the chair will degrade quicker.

Of course finishing it in boat epoxy or bartop-type finish will make it
look like plastic but hermetically seal the grain too.

I visited a shop a while back where the guy was building a mahogany
garden gate about 5’ x 6’ x 2” thick. Into his price he’s built ongoing
maintenance and correction of the gate’s action and balance.

The price? $10k.

View JOET1480's profile


1 post in 1654 days

#5 posted 05-29-2015 05:26 PM


Bit late here with this but I am curious about the japanese chair???

I saw one in a house in Germany years ago and have often thought about the making
of one. one thing i remember is that every surface was curved in some way with the exception of the bottom.

Just wondering how you got on with the project?


View Warren 's profile


66 posts in 3840 days

#6 posted 06-01-2015 01:30 PM

It went pretty well! It was incredibly challenging and id say it was much nearer the “sculptor” end of the scale than Id normally go but it was very rewarding. In the end I made a chair and a loveseat to match. I cut the rough shape with a chainsaw and then hued it out with a grinder fitted with a Arbortech Woodcarver. (which I will admit scared the bezjesus out of me)

I made a few mistakes of course and they are far more difficult to correct on something like this. If also took me a good two months! Its definately a good challange and you wont regret taking it on. (That is if you can get over the sticker shock of buying that much lumber!!)

Good luck

-- Im more succesfull at making sawdust than I am at making furniture

View FellingStudio's profile


93 posts in 2243 days

#7 posted 06-01-2015 02:44 PM

Nice work Warren.

And, how have the chair/loveseat held up over the past 4 years? Any checking?

-- Jesse Felling -

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