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Forum topic by RobQ posted 06-26-2018 09:06 PM 435 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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RobQ

2 posts in 389 days


06-26-2018 09:06 PM

I am new to this site and any help would be greatly appreciated. I have made a Kitchen counter top out of very old red oak and have it sanded, but not sure what type of finish to use. I have some butcher block and salad bowl oil. Will that work.
thanks


6 replies so far

View Gerald Thompson's profile

Gerald Thompson

1209 posts in 2654 days


#1 posted 06-26-2018 10:01 PM

I made a small table from red oak, It was open grain and I used grain filler as directed and then sanded to 180-220 as I recall. I used Waterlox on it. Go to the Waterlox site and see if it suits you. It is the original sealer finish.
I have seen where many use polyurethane as it is tough.
Go to Youtube and see if there are any videos showing what you need to know.

-- Jerry

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

2359 posts in 2409 days


#2 posted 06-26-2018 10:05 PM

The key isn’t necessarily the type of finish, but how it is applied. Also, what you want to end up with – thick film, thin film, no film, just “in the wood”. How heat/chemical resistant do you want? No matter what you do it will not be as durable as a formica top.

View GoldenCoastWoodworks's profile

GoldenCoastWoodworks

5 posts in 386 days


#3 posted 07-03-2018 05:11 AM

If you are going to use an oil based finish I would suggest a three part oil/urethane mix. One of the best ones that I have come across has 1/3 tung oil, 1/3 boiled linseed oil, and 1/3 general finishes arm-r-seal. It seems to provide a good finish and decent protection.

-- Kyle Cameron - Golden Coast Woodworks - https://www.goldencoastwoodworks.com/

View LittleShaver's profile

LittleShaver

554 posts in 1039 days


#4 posted 07-03-2018 12:10 PM

I use mineral oil for anything that contacts food. Totally an “in-the-wood” finish. Non-drying oil that will not go rancid over time. It offers little protection, but it is easily renewable. A quick wipe with fresh oil and you’re back in business.

I also use a blend of 1/4 Cup beeswax and 1 Cup mineral oil on cutting boards. Heat the mineral oil to 140 stir in bees wax and pour into a jar. wipe on, buff off. A little more protection than plain mineral oil. When water quits beading, wipe on a new coat.

-- Sawdust Maker

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RobQ

2 posts in 389 days


#5 posted 07-03-2018 01:11 PM

I want to thank everyone for all the great suggestion.

View ChefHDAN's profile

ChefHDAN

1417 posts in 3269 days


#6 posted 07-03-2018 04:14 PM

As Gerald said, it’s an open grain wood, and it’s difficult to get a smooth finish without filling the grain/pores. If you intend to use it as a butcher block and have knives cutting on it and food contacting it go with mineral oil or a block oil preparation. As it’s in a kitchen and it’s an open grain wood, I would not recommend doing this though as sanitation and maintenance will be a SOB over the years and there will always be water around in the kitchen. I’d strongly advise to fill the grain, stain a color you like and then use a tough durable film finish that will hold up over time and protect the counter from spills etc. Find some more suitable dense hardwoods and build a nice sized wooden cutting board that will fit in your sink for good cleaning & sanitation.

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

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