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Crosscut sled thickness? T-slot or t-track?

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Forum topic by PatrickIrish posted 06-03-2018 06:30 PM 1829 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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PatrickIrish

153 posts in 2649 days


06-03-2018 06:30 PM

Need to make a sled now that my Saw is set in my
Garage. I made one out of 3/4” melamine with t-tracks for hold downs. It was nice but heavy.

I then made a very cheap one out of 1/2” mdf with planed 2×4s for fences, worked well for years until I sold that saw.

Looking to make a nice ‘permanent’ sled not that I found a used Sawstop which I’ll have forever.

1/2” vs 3/4” for the Base?

T-track vs t-slot for hold downs?

I was going to follow plans I that used 1/2” quality ply or mdf for the base and routed t-slot to use 1/4” clamping hardware. Be much lighter than 3/4” setup with aluminum t-tracks. I have the tool and slot cutting bits to make the slots. I guess my only concern is holding down force in a routed slot vs a t-track. But it’s really only holding down cutting boards for cross cutting and things like that.


6 replies so far

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PatrickIrish

153 posts in 2649 days


#1 posted 06-03-2018 06:36 PM

Something like this basically. With a removeable insert for dado and angles cross cuts.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/159250

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jthornton

8 posts in 595 days


#2 posted 06-03-2018 07:36 PM

Search for William Ng 5 cuts to a perfect cross cut sled video, he explains the process very well. I built one using MDF coated with vinyl just for practice and after getting the runners to fit right I was within 0.002” in 22”. I’m getting some baltic birch next week to build the real one.

JT

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BroncoBrian

875 posts in 2562 days


#3 posted 06-03-2018 09:12 PM

I am building mine now. Using the good BB from Woodcraft and maple for the fences. I figure with the time and use this will get, heavy does not matter as much as pretty and functional. I am following a combination of Wood Whisperer and Nick Ferry (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZtwK9X8o1Gw) to add the miter option.

T-track for sure! Unless you are talking about the fence. I will use t-track in the base, might add a t-slot in the fence if I keep 1” stock at a minimum. In Maple, that is very strong. Also making a maple fence for my miter gauge and router table fence at the same time.

Not sure about the track on the fence yet. Seems handy, but I like the raw shaped wood look of Mark’s better than Nicks. Maybe I will make 2 for fun.

-- A severed foot is the ultimate stocking stuffer.

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Rich

5134 posts in 1192 days


#4 posted 06-03-2018 09:32 PM

For me, simple is best. I use MDF for the base since ply can warp.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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pintodeluxe

6032 posts in 3416 days


#5 posted 06-03-2018 10:18 PM

If you want and will actually use t-tracks, you’ll be stuck with a 3/4” base. If you eliminate the t-tracks you can use a 1/2” base to save weight.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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CyberDyneSystems

301 posts in 2791 days


#6 posted 06-04-2018 07:24 PM

I use 1/2” (some 12 odd mm actually) Baltic birch.

-- Without the wood, it's just working

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