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Help. I have a bevel up jointer, smoother, and Jack but want to try BD

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Forum topic by NeophyteGrant posted 06-02-2018 01:09 AM 1930 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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NeophyteGrant

102 posts in 928 days


06-02-2018 01:09 AM

Topic tags/keywords: plane bevel-uo bevel-down

I started, like so many, on a powered path. But when I realized the way planes can augment machines, I began to transition to the cave. Soon I was chopping mortises instead of using the universal plunge guide jig I built. I was handsawing tenon’s and other joinery, trimming shoulders. Etc. I had evolved.

The question: I have a low angle jack, smoother and jointer and they’re great. But I feel I’ve grown to want on the fly Bailey adjustments, more lateral control, and the feedback of some BDs. What bench plane could I get that wouldn’t duplicate the BU versions I have (or provide the most value).

I don’t just want a BD for the sake of a BD—Id love it to complement what I have…


16 replies so far

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Don W

19250 posts in 2987 days


#1 posted 06-02-2018 11:59 AM

Your starting down a road of personalities now. What you have will probably do anything you ever need, but I’m pretty sure once you get a BD smoother, the BU will spend a lot more time on the shelf.

It’s more about what’s best suited for the job than “will it do the job.”

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

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TheFridge

10858 posts in 1905 days


#2 posted 06-02-2018 12:42 PM

Pretty much. Myself being a fan of cap irons to control tear out I’m all in on BD.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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NeophyteGrant

102 posts in 928 days


#3 posted 06-03-2018 08:34 AM

Thanks Don and Fridge. Indeed, as you say Don, I’ve never wanted in strict terms from my BUs—they’ve done the job. And they’ll sufficiently do any job, that I’ve done and probably will do I’d expect, but as I’ve progressed its gone from “will do sufficiently” to the optimal. Funny how that develops. It just sits there and nags you! I started out thinking, oh, I’ll do the generalist, but now i want to specialize.

I can see how a smoother is top of the list- if/when I do add a BD-or a small jack maybe. I don’t see the need for a BD jointer over the BU jointer off the top of my head.

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Tim

3814 posts in 2381 days


#4 posted 06-03-2018 12:45 PM

Are you thinking premium like LV or LN? Getting a LN with a standard and high angle frog or one of each plane could open up some options for you. Starting with adding a BD smoother does seem to make sense, but I’ve never used a BU bench plane.

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NeophyteGrant

102 posts in 928 days


#5 posted 06-03-2018 08:33 PM

Most likely LN. I was kind of eyeing the lateral set screws LV has bit bthey’re out of stock for over a month (again) The Ln smoother has a Norris adjuster, which I like. All of the BUs have a combined lateral and feed adjustment. LN limits lateral movment mainly because I’ve found that unless it’s perfectly tuned it can shift laterally some when you adjust. The more proficient the better feel I get for stopping that though. But I find myself wanting to set a depth and leave it there because I’ve only found success loosening the lever cap, adjusting and then double checking that the blade hasn’t skewed when I forward the blade out. It becomes a fuss.

I can see advantages already to lateral adjustment and on the fly depth adjustment. Basically I realized why schwarz says the BDs are more a specialized tool (others say this).

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bandit571

23184 posts in 3103 days


#6 posted 06-03-2018 08:39 PM

Nah…

Stanley #4, type 10….

New ones? Maybe look into the ones by Woodriver?

Mine are either Stanley or by Millers Falls….

Then you get into the realm of..

Grooved soles, or smooth soles….

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

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Loren

10477 posts in 4067 days


#7 posted 06-03-2018 08:49 PM

I would be more inclined to classify the bevel
up planes as specialized. Modern ductile iron
makes manufacture of more durable ones feasible
than in Stanley’s heyday. I dropped an old
Stanley spokeshave on concrete once and it
broke in half. The ductile iron planes are supposed
to be less brittle.

I prefer the bevel down generally. I have some
bevel up planes and they aren’t my favorites.
I prefer to be able to tweak the depth and
chipbreaker settings on the fly. The LV BU
planes may be easier to adjust than the LN ones
I have though.

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ColonelTravis

1976 posts in 2313 days


#8 posted 06-03-2018 09:01 PM

If you’ve gotten along just fine with bevel up planes, why do you want bevel down, specifically L-N? I’ve got both types, but it seems to me that spending a lot of money just for a lateral adjuster is waste of $. In the grand scheme of things, a lateral adjuster lever isn’t that big of a deal vs. my tiny hammer.

The reason I don’t use bevel up planes exclusively is because the tearout you can get is horrific. Avoiding that problem is more of a compelling reason to me for using BD planes.

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TheFridge

10858 posts in 1905 days


#9 posted 06-03-2018 09:05 PM

I wouldn’t exactly call it specializing since BD is has been the standard for awhile. Multiple irons for a BU plane has become popular because it’s a cheaper way to start out planing if new is preferred.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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NeophyteGrant

102 posts in 928 days


#10 posted 06-03-2018 09:35 PM

Tearout is one, too, and I find the adjustment in the LN BUs frustrating. Depth adjustments on the fly may not be a compelling enough reason either. But my frustrations are more just that, frustration, not problems. This may be an awful, crazy reason, but I feel like maybe I’m meant to be a BD guy as far as preferences go.

The final intangible element is comprehensiveness—ive never used a BD plane for long at all. It feels like working on the skill set I should be at least familiar with BD. But then that says why not just buy vintage if it’s just to own one.

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bandit571

23184 posts in 3103 days


#11 posted 06-03-2018 09:53 PM

Stanley N0.7c, type 9

Panel is 18” x 24”

Jointing leg stock..Stanley No. 8, type 7

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

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TheFridge

10858 posts in 1905 days


#12 posted 06-03-2018 10:21 PM

I have a couple Stanley’s ready to roll if interested. 2 no5s and a no4.

PM if so.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View Don W's profile (online now)

Don W

19250 posts in 2987 days


#13 posted 06-03-2018 10:24 PM

Well, let’s face it, its all personal preference. We can argue which works better, but it’ll go on forever. Buy one, try it. If you don’t like it sell it. If you buy it intelligently you won’t loose enough to even notice.

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

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TheFridge

10858 posts in 1905 days


#14 posted 06-03-2018 10:58 PM

Ditto.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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Robert

3436 posts in 1900 days


#15 posted 06-04-2018 01:17 PM

The only rationale I can see for a BU smoother is multiple irons honed for higher angle approaches. I have a BU jack originally bought for shooting, but I’ve found it too light so I’m back to my #6 for shooting. Nowadays I rarely ever use it except for cleaning up drawer joints. I’ve found a well hones BD plane does just fine on endgrain.

Regarding BD, I have several LN and LV planes, and I think overall I like the LN 4 1/2 the most. With eased edges, it is simply the bomb on planing face grain or panels.

(Although not considered a “premium” plane, I put the Wood River line right up there with the premiums. Yes, made in China & I got over it after trying one. Now I have a 4, 6, and 7).

A vintage Stanley will do fine and is probably the best option initially, but if you opt for a LN I promise you will not be sorry. ;-)

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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