Shoulder Plane

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Forum topic by myxology posted 05-28-2018 12:32 AM 943 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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98 posts in 2007 days

05-28-2018 12:32 AM

So, I have done about zero work with hand tools but I really want to get better at them. I have a decent little block plane and a couple of crappy other planes, but I’ve been keeping my eye out specifically for a shoulder plane because I want to use it for joinery, vs just relying on the table saw or chisels. Anyways, I found this little beauty at a garage sale today and paid $3 for it. I can’t tell what brand it is, because it doesn’t say, but it does say Made in USA on it. Anybody know anything about this plane? Also, I’m looking for some resources on how I can revive it, as it is a little worse for wear.

Sorry about the photos. Here they are.

-- Is this thing plugged in?

11 replies so far

View BlasterStumps's profile


1675 posts in 1206 days

#1 posted 05-28-2018 12:57 AM


-- "I build for function first, looks second. Most times I never get around to looks." - Mike, western Colorado

View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile


16687 posts in 3385 days

#2 posted 05-28-2018 03:01 AM

Yes, a picture or two is key.

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. - OldTools Archive -

View Don W's profile

Don W

19615 posts in 3334 days

#3 posted 05-28-2018 11:29 AM

It’s probably a Craftsman made by Sargent. It is similar to a Stanley #78, but the Sargent is a #79.

It’s not a Shoulder plane, although I suppose you can use it for a similar purpose. Hit up for a good description.

Here is the link

-- - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

View BlasterStumps's profile


1675 posts in 1206 days

#4 posted 05-28-2018 12:55 PM

I’m no expert but here is what I would try if I was to use it for a shoulder plane:

First thing, I would take the blade out of the front position. Keep it on the bench along with the lever cap. Then take the guide off the right side along with the post it is mounted on. Put them where you can find them again. If that thumb screw is holding a depth stop shoe, take them off also. All you would want on the right side of the plane is a nicker if there is one. For the purposes of preparing the plane, remove the nicker for the time being or rotate it so there is no point pointing down. It should be slightly sharp with a cutter point pointing down when you are ready to cut. Then lay the plane on its right side on some sand paper and brighten up the metal edges that touch the sand paper. Bring it back up to vertical and slightly sand the bottom to brighten up the sole. Then it would be time to work on the cutter blade. After you get it sharp, put it back in the rear location and align it so that it is ever-so-slightly proud of the right side of the plane.

Now with a good nicker and a sharp well aligned blade it should help square up the shoulder of a rabbet.

edit: may not need the nicker just to clean up the inside corner of a rabbet.

-- "I build for function first, looks second. Most times I never get around to looks." - Mike, western Colorado

View Handtooler's profile


1628 posts in 2899 days

#5 posted 05-28-2018 01:15 PM

Blaster, Excellent helping instructions for this LJ. Thanks for your time.

-- Russell Pitner Hixson, TN 37343 [email protected]

View BlasterStumps's profile


1675 posts in 1206 days

#6 posted 05-28-2018 03:33 PM

Handtooler, Thank you. I realized later that I left out putting some wax on the sole and side contact surfaces to make it work smoother.

-- "I build for function first, looks second. Most times I never get around to looks." - Mike, western Colorado

View Derek Cohen's profile

Derek Cohen

493 posts in 4735 days

#7 posted 05-29-2018 01:16 PM

The plane is for planing rebates (rabbets).

Regards from Perth


-- Buildiing furniture, and reviewing and building tools at

View Robert's profile


3737 posts in 2247 days

#8 posted 05-29-2018 02:28 PM

As stated, not a shoulder plane. Its a knock off of a Stanley 78. Missing front knob. Does appear to be cast iron, tho.

Even finely tuned in my hands, lets just say they are not the easiest plane to use. I put it in the category of the 45. Not a plane you want to just pick up on occasion and use, but can be mastered if used on a regular basis (or if you are exeptionally well gifted with dexterity).

Give it a whirl, but I think you’ll find that cap iron/blade blade is the issue. The cap iron is way too far back.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View TechTeacher04's profile


447 posts in 2298 days

#9 posted 05-29-2018 02:34 PM

There is no cap iron, I replaced the stock blade on mine with a hock. The red clamping piece if comparable to the lever cap on a bench plane. The nicker is only needed when doing cross grain work to score the wood fibers. If you do not use the nicker the plane will want to talk out of the cut in my experience.

View bandit571's profile


25866 posts in 3450 days

#10 posted 05-29-2018 03:46 PM


Sargents used a circular nicker/spur, that can be rotated up out of the way..not needed when going with the grain..

Mine was made by Stanley…

Cap iron, if set too close, will cause shavings to clog things up.

On that Sargent?Craftsman plane (yes it is cast iron, with gray paint) that thing sticking up in front IS a handle…many times these are found with that area broken off. Lever cap looks just find, same as the cutter…Cutter is supposed to stick out the right side just a hair, gives a better, cleaner corner to a rebate.

Oh, BTW…these are bevel DOWN planes…...there is also no real NEED to put a “Hock” iron in one of these…cost more than the plane did. Irons were thick enough when new, anyway. Sharpen and use the OEM ….might be surprised.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View Tim's profile


3859 posts in 2728 days

#11 posted 05-29-2018 03:57 PM

There are lots of ways to revive a hand plane. Google restoring hand plane or similar, or go here:

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