router adapter for Montgomery Wards Radial Arm Saw Model TCP 2610E

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Forum topic by KTNC posted 05-21-2018 05:16 AM 2220 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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163 posts in 1059 days

05-21-2018 05:16 AM


I’m looking for a router adapter for my Montgomery Wards Radial Arm Saw Model TCP 2610E.

Part number 84-2613

Do you have one you’d like to sell?

regards, Kerry

5 replies so far

View MrRon's profile


5925 posts in 4047 days

#1 posted 05-21-2018 02:48 PM

I’m not familiar with the model number, but Montgomery Ward used to sell a radial arm saw that was made by Magna engineering, the same company that made the Shopsmith 5 in 1 machine. I had the RAS and if it is the same tool; it had variable speed so it could go up to 6400 rpm for router use. I no longer have that saw and not sure it is the same one you have. If it is the same, you might try contacting Shopsmith to see if they still support the RAS.

Correction: It was called the “sawsmith” and made by Yuba Industries which once owned Shopsmith. The saw dates back to the 1960’s.

View KTNC's profile


163 posts in 1059 days

#2 posted 05-22-2018 03:18 AM

Hi MrRon:

That’s not the same saw, but thanks anyway. I’m doing a blog on the restoration if you want to see some pictures of the saw.

This one has a 20,000 RPM spindle with 15/32 inch diameter 20 threads per inch. It also has a 3450 RPM spindle with 1/2 inch diameter 20 TPI and you can put a standard drill chuck on that one.

regards, Kerry

View Builderbee's profile


2 posts in 521 days

#3 posted 03-04-2019 08:00 PM

Hi Kerry,
I too am in the same boat needing the adapter for the 20,000 RPM spindle for the Montgomery ward radial arm saw. Did you ever find a solution? Any information would be helpful, thank you,

View KTNC's profile


163 posts in 1059 days

#4 posted 03-05-2019 12:01 AM

Hi Builderbee:

Yes, I did find the adapter. If you check out the blog referenceded two posts above, you’ll see I did a detailed restoration on my saw. When I searched for parts to buy I found they were either unavailalbe or about as expensive as buying a second saw. I kept checking Craigslist for a second saw and I always asked if they had the router adapter. Luckily I did find someone selling a saw with the router adapter and a couple other accessories. I bought the second saw and accessories for $75. That one supplied me with the parts I was missing and the accessories plus a lot of spare parts.

I did use the router function of the radial arm saw on one of my projects. Here are a couple pictures

It’s pretty challenging but I think it’s really quite useful. Here are some of the challenges.

1. The bit position/height is set relative to the plane that is swept out when you move the head along the track and when you pivot the arm about the column. If you are going to have any chance of getting your cut depth as you want you must get the plane of the table parallel to the plane the bit moves in.

2. The table must be planar also. If it’s not and your workpiece is clamped down to the table, the the cut depth will vary as you move the bit or as you move the workpiece.

3. The workpiece must be flat and constant thickness or you will get variations in the cut depth.

4. In the “cross cut” mode, you really have to clamp your workpiece down. If you just hold it with your hand as you do when using the RAS as a saw, the workpiece will move. In crosscut mode, the bit will tend to tear as you enter/exit the workpiece. I put a sacrificial piece up against the workpiece to help with that.

5. When you move the workpiece as you would when ripping the clamping problem goes away as long as you feed it in the right direction. See the arrow on the picture above. It’s more challenging to get a constant depth cut in this mode because of imperfections in the table and workpiece. The ripping trough (a feature of the table) can also cause trouble if you are pushing down on your workpiece over that area: the workpiece bends down away from the bit and thus the cut is shallow.

It’s been about a year since I did any routing with the radial arm saw, but I also remember it was hard to get the adapter off when I was done. As I recall, I had to remove that shiny panel that says “POWER PANEL” so I could get a wrench on the shaft where the adapter attaches.

Good Luck!


View Builderbee's profile


2 posts in 521 days

#5 posted 03-05-2019 08:06 PM

Kerry, Thanks for the information. Sounds like a lot of work for not using it in a year. I would love to take it off your hands if you’re not gonna use it. I’ve recently become disabled and shop space is at a premium in my garage and I’m trying to adapt the saw to make cabinet doors and drawer fronts. I need all the space I can get for my scooter to get around. I’ll buy it for the same price you paid for the whole ball of wax I know it’s a longshot,
thank you, builderbee

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