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Spur center keeps getting stuck in the headstock

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Forum topic by Steve posted 05-14-2018 06:54 PM 1640 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Steve

1358 posts in 1002 days


05-14-2018 06:54 PM

Is there a trick to avoiding my spur center from getting stuck in the headstock? Should I coat it with anti-seize before putting it in? It’ll get stuck in there and then I have to use channel locks to twist it free. I’ve wrapped the spur center with a rag, but it’s still getting a little beat up from the jaws of the wrench.


12 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

7405 posts in 2619 days


#1 posted 05-14-2018 07:06 PM

What lathe you got? The spur center should get ‘stuck’ in the headstock (as otherwise it wouldn’t turn the workpiece), and typically you knock it out with a knockout bar from the outboard side of the spindle. Some lathes have a collar that unscrews to push the center out… but all have a way to remove them without buggering them up.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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Steve

1358 posts in 1002 days


#2 posted 05-14-2018 07:16 PM

It’s a Jet JWL-1236.

Just read through the manual again. I see where there’s a drift rod and I have to remove the handle to use it.

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MrUnix

7405 posts in 2619 days


#3 posted 05-14-2018 07:22 PM

Read page 10 of your manual regarding how to remove the spur center… Your lathe came with a knockout bar (they call it a drift rod) – Item “D” in the picture below:

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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Steve

1358 posts in 1002 days


#4 posted 05-14-2018 07:25 PM

Man, don’t I feel like a DA now.

now to figure out a sharpening system for my tools so i can do some more turning. lol

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

1932 posts in 1023 days


#5 posted 05-14-2018 07:33 PM

As long as we’re on the subject…..My PSI mandrel saver is the only attachment that gets stuck in my tailstock. All of the others come loose when I back the tailstock out as they are supposed to except the mandrel saver. I have to tap it out with a long flat heat screw driver placed behind the live center as the tailstock isn’t hollow, which will eventually screw that live center up. I even tried a friends brand new mandrel saver and had the same result. Any ideas on how to correct this?

Sorry to hijack the thread. Thanks in advance.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

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MrUnix

7405 posts in 2619 days


#6 posted 05-14-2018 07:40 PM

As long as we re on the subject…..My PSI mandrel saver is the only attachment that gets stuck in my tailstock. All of the others come loose when I back the tailstock out as they are supposed to except the mandrel saver. I have to tap it out with a long flat heat screw driver placed behind the live center as the tailstock isn t hollow, which will eventually screw that live center up. I even tried a friends brand new mandrel saver and had the same result. Any ideas on how to correct this?

Sorry to hijack the thread. Thanks in advance.

- Andybb

If it won’t self-eject, then the taper is too short… I have a couple like that as well. Easiest way to get it out for me is to just eject the whole tailstock spindle and tap it out from the other end. Another option would be to attach something to the end of the taper so it’s long enough to self eject.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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Andybb

1932 posts in 1023 days


#7 posted 05-14-2018 08:06 PM

Easiest way to get it out for me is to just eject the whole tailstock spindle and tap it out from the other end.

Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix

You never cease to amaze me Brad! Makes total sense. Thanks. (Or, as you said I guess I could weld a little piece to the end of the taper.)

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Steve's profile

Steve

1358 posts in 1002 days


#8 posted 05-14-2018 08:30 PM

This thread was also a reminder for me to buy a face shield.

View Woodmaster1's profile

Woodmaster1

1181 posts in 3007 days


#9 posted 05-14-2018 08:55 PM

Great suggestions, adding a weld to the end worked for me when taught woodworking.

View Steve Peterson's profile

Steve Peterson

405 posts in 3502 days


#10 posted 05-14-2018 09:32 PM


Easiest way to get it out for me is to just eject the whole tailstock spindle and tap it out from the other end.

Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix

You never cease to amaze me Brad! Makes total sense. Thanks. (Or, as you said I guess I could weld a little piece to the end of the taper.)

- Andybb

I have one live center that is too short for the self-eject feature. Fortunately, it is tapped for a drawbar. This allows me to screw in a bolt to make it long enough to eject properly.

-- Steve

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

5210 posts in 4380 days


#11 posted 05-14-2018 09:41 PM

Just make sure that ya don’t have any burrs on the taper.

-- [email protected]

View Planeman40's profile

Planeman40

1420 posts in 3181 days


#12 posted 05-15-2018 04:42 PM

Many Morse taper mandrels have a threaded hole on the back of the mandrel. This is used to hold the mandrel in the headstock so it won’t come out and won’t slip. This is especially important when working with large turnings. You can make a “drawbar” from a piece of threaded rod that matches the threaded hole, a nut and a large washer. Use this drawbar to tighten the tapered mandrel in the lathe. To knock out the mandrel, just loosen the drawbar nut and use a wood mallet or a soft face hammer to tap the drawbar to force the mandrel loose from the lathe headstock.

-- Always remember: It is a mathematical certainty that half the people in this country are below average in intelligence!

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