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R4512 and a new Delta T3. Installation tips or guide?

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Forum topic by Goonie posted 05-10-2018 12:18 PM 1251 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Goonie

20 posts in 2089 days


05-10-2018 12:18 PM

Hey guys.

I recently fell on a brand new Delta T3 fence system for $50, and at that price, I had to buy it.
My R4512 fence has been a pos since I bought it years ago, and has prohibited me greatly from making any cuts with precision. Binding, waves in cuts, off on the back edge of every cut by 1/8 inch of more etc.
Despite all the guides to fix the R4512 fence, it’s still a pos, and I’ve had enough.

Anywards, I’m finally replacing it.

Has anyone done the T3 upgrade on their 4512? Or know of a thread somewhere or video that shows the process?
Any tips other wise on how to do this correctly?

I know I’m going to have to drill holes in the fence, which is fine. Got a pillar drill to do the job.


9 replies so far

View Steve's profile

Steve

1265 posts in 967 days


#1 posted 05-10-2018 12:47 PM

I put a T3 on my Craftsman 113. I opted to drill holes in the cast iron top instead of the rails.

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Goonie

20 posts in 2089 days


#2 posted 05-10-2018 12:49 PM

Yeah, seems to me drilling into the rails would be much easier in this case. Then I don’t have to deal with tapping them etc.

View johnstoneb's profile

johnstoneb

3107 posts in 2557 days


#3 posted 05-10-2018 01:13 PM

You don’t have to tap the holes in the top and cast iron generally drills easier than the steel rail.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

View jonah's profile

jonah

2072 posts in 3683 days


#4 posted 05-10-2018 01:25 PM

For the most part, you can locate the holes so you have room to put a washer and nut on the other side, so you don’t need to tap them.

It’s far, far easier to drill cast iron than it is steel. Even so, you’ll want a sharp, quality drill bit and a bit of cutting fluid.

View SweetTea's profile

SweetTea

419 posts in 1044 days


#5 posted 05-12-2018 03:14 PM

What I did was clamp the angle iron on the front of the saw, then clamp the guide tube on to the angle iron. Leave the angle iron somewhat loose so that you can slide it and the guide tube around to line it up exactly where you need it to be. Once you get them where they need to be in their most optimal locations, clamp the angle iron down hard. Then remove the guide tube but leave the angle iron clamped to the front of the saw. Now get a mallet and a steel punch (you can buy a punch set at Harbor Freight for $8 or so) and punch through the holes on the angle iron to create a dimple on the front of the cast iron top on your table saw. Hit the punch really hard to make a dimple that can help your drill bit to sit into the correct spot. Once you have the hole locations punched, remove the angle iron. Use a corded drill and some drill bits meant for drilling through metal to drill the holes out on the front of the cast iron top on your table saw. (I recommend drilling them slightly big so that you have some adjustability once the angle iron is bolted down) Use some bolts that will sit down into the factory countersunk holes on the angle iron and bolt the angle iron onto the cast iron top. Then all you have to do is attach the guide tube to the angle iron on the front of the saw using the factory tapped holes. Done.

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Goonie

20 posts in 2089 days


#6 posted 05-12-2018 06:07 PM

That sounds like a great idea SweeTea, thank you.

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bigJohninvegas

604 posts in 1847 days


#7 posted 05-13-2018 03:28 PM

Drill the cast iron top top match the holes in the rails, much easier to do.
I too have a R4512 and got a great deal on a Biesemeyer Commercial fence about a year ago.
The factory R4512 fence is held on with socket head screws and nuts. The original holes in the cast iron top are not tapped.
I was able to use two or three of the four original holes to mount the rail. The holes were over size and gave me enough play to adjust the rail. And 2 or 3 bolts were enough to get it on the saw straight and true. Then I went back and used the holes in the rail as a guide. drilled right through the cast iron top. perfect fit. Cast iron is soft, very easy to drill a hole into it. A quick search, I did not find T3 instructions, but I still have the Biesemeyer instructions I found when I did my saw. So here they are. Hope they help.
https://files.acrobat.com/a/preview/8b6285d9-8b62-414c-8cca-5d252814db03
On the Beisemeyer instructions, they show to use 2 pipe clamps and a Jig, Item number 27. I did not have this jig, and had to use a double square instead. I don’t know the rail and tube size of the T3, but the biesemeyer rail is set at 2-27/32” below the top of the cast iron.
I see the 1st reply by Steve has the T3 on a craftsman saw. His measurement will work for you.
I suppose I should have asked first. Do you have the instruction book for the T3? I was not so lucky.
I did a blog post on my upgrade. Not much of a tutorial. Look into used cast iron wings before you get started.
I did both the wings and the fence at the same time. Wings first, gave me more solid surface to bolt the rail too.
I know the wing on the right is off a saw stop, but the left wing is a mystery as to what saw it is from. As long as it 27” long it will work. Only paid $45 for both wings.
http://lumberjocks.com/bigJohninvegas/blog/12125
This upgrade has made this a very nice saw. Wish I had done it years ago.

Good luck

-- John

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TheFridge

10858 posts in 1871 days


#8 posted 05-13-2018 04:49 PM

The key is to put the rails so the fence is at the proper height. Too low or high and you’ll have to start over and it blows.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View Goonie's profile

Goonie

20 posts in 2089 days


#9 posted 05-13-2018 07:32 PM

Got it installed!

I got lucky and only had to drill one through the cast iron. I DID have to drill one in the angle because the only other hole fell in a spot where less than half the previous hole in cast iron was visible, and drilling a hole into another hole is near impossible. So I just drilled it with my pillar floor drill. No problems.

The back rail was an entirely different matter entirely. Those holes are taped, and I ran into similar issues with the angle hole landing near a previous cast iron hole. I just drilled the angle again, installation was a breeze.

Turns out, it looked like the guy who ordered it took it all apart and when it didn’t fit out of the box, returned it.

Love guys like that. =P

Thanks for all the help fellas! I now have a saw that doesn’t bind, when I set the measurement, I don’t need to check and recheck against the blade front and back before a cut, and when I lock the fence down, it groans with steel on steel assertion that it ain’t going ANYWHERE during the cut.

My cuts are coming out perfect, front to back…and I now finally have the tools to confidently tackle any project with precision.

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