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Forum topic by Straydog posted 05-02-2018 01:12 PM 706 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Straydog

2 posts in 447 days


05-02-2018 01:12 PM

Topic tags/keywords: delta unisaw tablesaw

I acquired a Delta Unisaw a few days ago and am looking for any information that can be passed along to me.

The backstory is that a friends brother passed away and I was helping clean out the property before it had to be vacated. It was either take the saw home or load it in the dumpster, so it followed me home.

I believe the saw is a 1939-40 model. The motor has been replaced with a high dollar replacement, as near as I can tell. The top is off and the fence is missing.

Can you guys advise me on the value this machine. What would it take to get it back to original condition, and is it worth the trouble?
Thanks in advance for the help. I can snag more pictures later if needed.


9 replies so far

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TheFridge

10858 posts in 1908 days


#1 posted 05-02-2018 01:37 PM

Mine was in similar shape. That’s a 4 footer they call it. Sought after. In that condition maybe 600$ max I’d pay. If it was a typical unisaw I’d pay 400$. Less if it’s missing too and fence.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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GoingUp

37 posts in 669 days


#2 posted 05-02-2018 01:39 PM

Is the top off or is the top missing? If it’s just off, some shims to align the top to the blade when the blade is at 45 degrees is all you’ll need (assuming you still the the bolts for attachment). Then buy a fence, costs $200-400, and you’re off to the races. If you plan to keep it, the value tends to be great as there is very little to go wrong, typically just a few bearings. Value depends on your area. Where I live in St. Louis, depending on fence, you’re looking at $400-500. Other areas might be closer to $1,000, depends on your market.

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MrUnix

7408 posts in 2621 days


#3 posted 05-02-2018 03:45 PM

What would it take to get it back to original condition, and is it worth the trouble?
- Straydog

What it would take depends on what you consider ’original’ condition. It may be possible (although probably unlikely) that you can just slap the top back on it and run it as-is… its cosmetic condition does not effect its ability to cut wood.

More realistically though – at the very least, assuming that there are no major mechanical problems, figure about $50 for new bearings and belts… perhaps a few bucks more for some new wiring. If you can’t find the original fence, then figure that into the equation as well (anywhere from free to a couple hundred bucks). Cleaning, polishing, alignment and lubrication will only cost you your time and effort. How far you take it from there is up to you…

Is it worth it, Absolutely IMO. Head on over to the OWWM site and see what others have done with saws in much worse shape than that.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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Straydog

2 posts in 447 days


#4 posted 05-03-2018 01:21 AM

Thanks for the replies guys.
The top is there with the bolts, just taken off before I got it. The fence, if it was there, unfortunately went into the dumpster.

What’s original to me? I really like the look of The Fridges saw up top, albeit not original. I really love the Art Deco look to them and enjoy tinkering around with things like this. I’ve seen some replica switch covers, but I’m not sure what the original looked like. I’m not so dedicated to “original” that I’d buy an original motor. The one it has suits me fine.

I’d like to clean it up getting it in good running order and looking really great at the same time.

I’m in Southern Indiana BTW.

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jonah

2075 posts in 3721 days


#5 posted 05-03-2018 02:27 AM

I’d start by:
1) Disassembling everything, cleaning and de-rusting, and then painting it
2) Replace the switch with a good magnetic switch ($25 or so)
3) Replace any wiring that looks sketchy
4) Get a fence (cheapest option: a Delta T3 for ~$200, better option: a Jet, Powermatic, Sawstop, Grizzly, or VerySuperCool Tools fence for ~$300-$400)
5) Reassemble, align everything carefully, and get to work

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runswithscissors

3052 posts in 2447 days


#6 posted 05-03-2018 05:21 AM

In my experience, the original fence is no loss (others, however like that fence). I would get a T square fence and suitable rails.

The 4 X outlet seems to indicate 120 volt rather than 240. Check to see what the motor plate says. The 120 outlets may be to a dust collector. Also, there may be a magnetic switch on it, perhaps on the opposite side of the base. It’s a good idea to have one, for safety reasons. Grizzly has them for around $85 or so.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

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MrUnix

7408 posts in 2621 days


#7 posted 05-03-2018 06:04 AM

The 4 X outlet seems to indicate 120 volt rather than 240. Check to see what the motor plate says. The 120 outlets may be to a dust collector. Also, there may be a magnetic switch on it, perhaps on the opposite side of the base.
- runswithscissors

If it’s wired for 120, then it needs a dedicated 20A circuit as the motor has an FLA of 17A. Those four footed machines were only made for the first couple of years (1939-1940), so it would have had an R/I motor (1/2, 3/4 and 1hp only), not the 1.5hp TEFC motor that is in there now… and the cabinet is most likely cut up to handle the newer style motor unfortunately. As for the starter, they didn’t have them back then – and just used a pretty standard Cutler Hammer motor rated switch. Here is the 1939 catalog entry for them:

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

10858 posts in 1908 days


#8 posted 05-03-2018 03:57 PM

I have 3 pole 2HP stock switch from my machine if interested. Mine is 3ph and I’m going with a VFD and different push button setup. PM if interested.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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GrantA

1617 posts in 1830 days


#9 posted 05-03-2018 07:57 PM

I highly recommend the riving knife setup that runswithscissors has available – it’s a great value at $150 and I’m awaiting a custom knife now for a sharkguard for the best of both worlds (safety and dust collection).
I’ll have a good review with pictures soon!

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