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Biesemeyer bc50 rail alignment issue

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Forum topic by redham posted 05-01-2018 02:49 AM 1558 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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redham

50 posts in 870 days


05-01-2018 02:49 AM

This is a part of my 34-806 Unisaw refurb project. The Unisaw came with a 52” Biesemeyer fence system which needed a complete overhaul. At this point I have stripped, repainted the rails and built a new extension table with Formica top.

When I took the fence apart I noticed that the fence rail was offset about 6” to the right of the fence support. I thought this was a mounting preference so I paid no attention to it. I just tried remounting the fence rail and noticed 2 complications.

1. The mount holes will only allow the fence rail to be mounted off-set left 6 inches or off-set right 6 inches, just not flush. All the web searches I have done (including the BC50 manual) has stated that the fence rail will over hang the support rail by 6 inched on both ends. With an overhang on both sides, the support rail should be 12 inches shorter than the fence rail but all three of my rails are exactly 8 feet long.

2. The other issue, bigger issue, is that the fence rail will not mount parallel to the support rail. It pulls into the support rail about 1/8 of an inch at the end of the table. I tried clamping it down and using a 5/8 board as a spacer between the rails but it is very obvious that the holes are off. I have squared a t30 fence on my delta 36-725 before and I know this will be a nightmare if the fence rail is not 90 degrees to the miter slots.

I thought these fences were all made standard with universal mounts. Both support rails look OEM with all the pre-drilled notches and mounting holes. The fence rail tube looks stock too with no other user modifications.

At this rate, I think, I am left with 2 not so pleasant options which are:

1. Re-align, flush to the support rail and completely drill new holes. This will be a major ordeal as i will have to find a way to support the fence rail on the drill press.

2. Try to re-tape holes on the table end. I have no idea how get a screw to bite as 1/3 of the hole with over lap with the old hole position.


8 replies so far

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redham

50 posts in 870 days


#1 posted 05-01-2018 02:53 AM

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MrUnix

7405 posts in 2619 days


#2 posted 05-01-2018 02:59 AM

1) No, it only overhangs on the right, not the left (as shown on the manual front cover below and in the drawings in the manual).
2) Got no idea what you are describing – post a picture or two (or better description).

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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redham

50 posts in 870 days


#3 posted 05-01-2018 03:44 AM

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/4208.pdf

Page 8, Point 14 which is the Fence mounting part.

2. When mounted, the fence rail is not parallel to the the support rail. On the left end (Saw end) the gap between is 5/8 and the gap on the right side is 1/2 inch. So the angle from the blade/miter slot is -/+ 86 degrees instead of 90 to the fence rail.

thx for responding brad.

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MrUnix

7405 posts in 2619 days


#4 posted 05-01-2018 04:02 AM

That is a different (and apparently newer) manual than the one I have... and my rails and tube are all the same length, so you get 6” offset on one end only. Sounds like you have the same. Although – you really can mount it anywhere you want – it’s not set in stone.

As for being off by 1/8”... is it that the way it was? If so, then you probably need to do a little drilling/taping. Alternatively, you can leave it as is and adjust the fence to compensate for it.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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jerryminer

956 posts in 1861 days


#5 posted 05-01-2018 05:15 AM

A. Looks like you could ream out the hole in the support rail to allow the bolt to thread into the fence rail without distorting the rail (or drill it out larger and put a washer under the bolt head)—the main thing is to keep the fence rail straight.

B. The fence rail does NOT have to be 90 deg. to the miter slots as long as it is straight. The fence is adjustable for 90, and will stay at 90 as long as the fence rail is straight.

-- Jerry, making sawdust professionally since 1976

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redham

50 posts in 870 days


#6 posted 05-02-2018 01:38 AM

thank you both for responding.

The fence rail is straight. After remounting the fence rail several times. I decided to try remounting it in the original position, which is offset to the right by the 6 inches. The original position brings the difference down to about 1/32 instead of 1/8 which can be attributable to my coating of paint. I wanted some fence capacity on the left of the blade but it is simply not in the cards.

I have a 36-725 with a T30 on a it and there was a learning curve to getting it squared. I found it a much easier process to get the fence rail perpendicular to the miter slot as it is the only fixed reference point on the entire saw.
I have to strip and paint the fence so I’ll see how ti aligns up when that is done.

I thought these fences were all standardized but that is not the case.

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smitdog

433 posts in 2525 days


#7 posted 05-02-2018 05:48 PM

Sounds like maybe the rail was a user addition? That may explain why the bolt holes are not perfectly inline. Because I’d be really surprised if the original machining from the factory was off that much. If I were you I would just drill out the holes in the angle iron so that you have a little more wiggle room to keep the rail spaced evenly from the front of the saw. If that makes the holes too big for bolts alone then add a washer and you’re good to go, then you get your extra rail to the left side like you want.

-- Jarrett - Mount Vernon, Ohio

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redham

50 posts in 870 days


#8 posted 05-02-2018 08:51 PM

The rail looks OEM but I now believe that it was a replacement. I assume Beisemeyer sell rails untapped to let the buyer tap it to fit existing systems. There are 10 holes on the the support rail and I was only able to get 9 to screw in. The nine holes fit easily and brought the fence rail pretty close to parallel to the support rail.

This is the original mount position when I bought it which annoys me because it is offset. I have limited space in my dual garage so an 8’ rail with a 6” offset is just something that I will never use but chopping the rails would be sacrilegious.

I have a lot more work on this restoration project so I am shelving this for now until I finish restoring the the actual fence. If the squaring process turns nightmarish, I will just pull both rails off, align them, clamp them together and tap 10 new holes on the fence rail.

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