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I need some really good advice on this

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Forum topic by ohtimberwolf posted 04-29-2018 12:18 AM 933 views 0 times favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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ohtimberwolf

934 posts in 2772 days


04-29-2018 12:18 AM

Topic tags/keywords: drywall den remodel old tile

Question for all you LJ remodelers
I have been doing this type of work for many many years but this is one thing I have never done so I need some expert advice.

In my home I am doing extensive remodeling now. I have a den that has ¾ solid cherry walls that I want to protect while doing this. Plastic covering is what I would think to do for that.
Here is what I don’t know.

All of my ceilings are ¾ inch plaster except in the den. The original furring and 12 inch tiles are in this room. I would like to either skim coat the grooves in the tiles and then skim coat the whole ceiling and try painting the ceiling. Will this work or will it dry and flake off of the tiles after while. Think expansion and contraction due to weather.

Or, could I have it covered with ¼ inch drywall over the existing tiles that are about 45 to 50 years old but in very good shape? Or should I tear off the old tiles and drywall it, which might mean dealing with the insulation above which I really don’t want to do.

Suggestions are more than welcome, they are greatly appreciated.

Larry P.S. remember, I will soon be 80 years old so show some mercy here. 

-- Just a barn cat, now gone to cat heaven.


20 replies so far

View eflanders's profile

eflanders

326 posts in 2270 days


#1 posted 04-29-2018 12:53 AM

Filing the tile lines will not last. Cover with drywall or remove the tile and drywall. Covering will be the easiest but you should cover with 3/8”thick min. Drywall needs to be secured to a joist.

View chrisstef's profile

chrisstef

17935 posts in 3426 days


#2 posted 04-29-2018 01:03 AM

What are the ceiling tiles made of?

Homosote with duct taped seams over the cherry walls would be my “i really really really don’t wanna screw up my walls” protection. Plastic wont stop dings.

I wouldnt trust adding more weight to old plaster. They didnt exactly use ring shanks back in the day. Id think it would eventually want to sag.

Ive seen a lot of plaster ceiling demo and it always turns out to be a whole lot more than an architect thought. If youve got the height you could hang a chicago grid from the joists and drywall to that too.

-- Its not a crack, its a casting imperfection.

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tomd

2207 posts in 4190 days


#3 posted 04-29-2018 01:18 AM

If the tiles are in very good condition as you say, why not a high hiding coat of primer then a nice new coat of paint ?

-- Tom D

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ohtimberwolf

934 posts in 2772 days


#4 posted 04-29-2018 02:34 AM

Thanks guys, good suggestions and I appreciate the your help.

chrisstef: No plaster just a fiber type tile. Not sure what Homosote is but will check it out.

eflanders: That is one thing I needed to know. Will fastening to the furring strips not work?

tomd: I think I will try that as I can do it and it won’t be a great loss if it doesn’t work.

right now I am leaning towards drywall if the paint doesn’t work. larry

-- Just a barn cat, now gone to cat heaven.

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

3101 posts in 994 days


#5 posted 04-29-2018 02:52 AM



Filing the tile lines will not last. Cover with drywall or remove the tile and drywall. Covering will be the easiest but you should cover with 3/8”thick min. Drywall needs to be secured to a joist.

- eflanders

This is the truth in a nutshell. “Skim” coats will only adhere to other layers of drywall mud, and are just the last thin coats to even out any irregularities. Putting a thin layer on a porous surface may get you a year, usually closer to 6 months.

-- Think safe, be safe

View CRAIGCLICK's profile

CRAIGCLICK

117 posts in 493 days


#6 posted 04-29-2018 02:54 AM

If its a fiber type tile, there should probably be something like shiplap or plasterboard above it.

In any case, i would just drywall over it. The new lightweight drywall is excellent for that. Just make sure you screw directly into the ceiling joists and you should be fine.

I’ve owned 5 old houses which I have remodeled. I can tell you that, if its plaster…its coming off. Between the cracking and the mildew issues, it’s one thing that I am glad went the way of the dodo.

-- Somewhere between raising hell and amazing grace.

View Richard's profile

Richard

11274 posts in 3452 days


#7 posted 04-29-2018 03:17 AM

I would go Drywall and New Paint in a Nice Complimentary Color of your choice.

Regards: Rick

-- Richard (Ontario, CANADA)

View ohtimberwolf's profile

ohtimberwolf

934 posts in 2772 days


#8 posted 04-29-2018 03:18 AM

therealsteven: good to know and I won’t do it.

craigclick: The rest of the house is plaster and is in very good shape and needs nothing. However all that is in this room is furring on the joists and then the tile. A double layer of fiberglass laid between the joists criss-crossed in the attic space, no shiplap or plaster board.

This place even has the old low voltage light switches and intercom in it. The builder who built most of the houses in this allotment built this home for him and his family. Random pieces of maple, cherry, oak, and walnut hardwood on the floors in all bedrooms. Oak on the rest of the floors. We have had most of those sanded and finished. Still a lot of work to go.
larry

-- Just a barn cat, now gone to cat heaven.

View msinc's profile

msinc

567 posts in 923 days


#9 posted 04-29-2018 12:02 PM

I room with solid cherry walls is very nice…it deserves to have the ceiling stripped to the joists and new drywall hung and finished properly. If it were my room there would be no getting around it. Anything else will leave you saying, “why didn’t I just do this right?”

View ohtimberwolf's profile

ohtimberwolf

934 posts in 2772 days


#10 posted 04-29-2018 12:29 PM

msinc: I will think on that, time is a factor. Thanks larry

-- Just a barn cat, now gone to cat heaven.

View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile

Smitty_Cabinetshop

16142 posts in 3038 days


#11 posted 04-29-2018 12:29 PM

At a minimum, remove the fibre tiles from the furring strips. ensure those 1×3s are solidly attached to the joists, then “Go” with 3/8” sheetrock. Pulling staples overhead will be a pain, but worth it in the long run.

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive --

View ohtimberwolf's profile

ohtimberwolf

934 posts in 2772 days


#12 posted 04-29-2018 12:33 PM

rick: good advice. larry

-- Just a barn cat, now gone to cat heaven.

View Snipes's profile

Snipes

410 posts in 2664 days


#13 posted 04-29-2018 02:28 PM

Hey Larry, I’ve done both knockdown and popcorn over the 12” tiles (did not skim coat). It looked nice when done. I’d still recommend tearing off and using 1/2” rock. But it can be done and looks fine.

-- if it is to be it is up to me

View Fresch's profile

Fresch

434 posts in 2340 days


#14 posted 04-29-2018 02:41 PM

Hate to rain on your parade, how old is that fibre ceiling and what are those fibres, asbestos?

View CRAIGCLICK's profile

CRAIGCLICK

117 posts in 493 days


#15 posted 04-29-2018 06:52 PM


Hate to rain on your parade, how old is that fibre ceiling and what are those fibres, asbestos?

- Fresch

Yep…the fact that those tiles were attached directly to furring strips would make me reeeeaaaaallly nervous. I would play it safe and just leave the tiles in place.

-- Somewhere between raising hell and amazing grace.

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