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splines on the face of a frame

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Forum topic by stripit posted 04-09-2018 02:41 PM 698 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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stripit

31 posts in 2464 days


04-09-2018 02:41 PM

Topic tags/keywords: jig question

Hi. You folks have helped me out many times be fore. I’m hoping you can do it again. I’m making 8 frames for award certificates, for volenteers . I normally put splines on the edge in the corners, These frames have a beaded edge,and spline would be hard to put in. I want to put a spline across the miter joint on the face of the frame.
I’m thinking of a jig on the miter gauge, to cut a slot 90 degs. to the miter cut. Anyone out there done this before, and how did you do it.

Thanks Joel


4 replies so far

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builtinbkyn

2939 posts in 1361 days


#1 posted 04-09-2018 02:49 PM

I don’t see any reason why it can’t be done. A simple 45 degree stop block on your sled or miter gauge should do it. The only issue is accurately matching the size of the spline to the size of the kerf you cut in both mating pieces of a corner.

-- Bill, Yo!......in Brooklyn & Steel City :)

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Ripper70

1291 posts in 1329 days


#2 posted 04-09-2018 02:51 PM

Here’s an example by a fellow LJ’er. A variation Wood Magazine example can be found here.

-- "You know, I'm such a great driver, it's incomprehensible that they took my license away." --Vince Ricardo

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LesB

2129 posts in 3863 days


#3 posted 04-09-2018 05:10 PM

If the frames are wide enough you could put a “butterfly” type inlay across the joint on the back side. I used this on a the back side of a segmented clock bezel (think school clock) using a router inlay kit. The kind with a router template guide that has a removable spacer ring so you can cut both the recess and the inlay with the same template. I made my own template making the wings of the butterfly by drilling overlapping circles in 1/4” masonite with a Forstner bit of the appropriate size.

-- Les B, Oregon

View Bishop78's profile

Bishop78

14 posts in 436 days


#4 posted 05-11-2018 10:32 PM

Bisquits? If the dimensions allow it. Or splines or loose tennons.

If you warterdown your glue and wet the mitres, give the wood time to suck glue up. Leave it to dry then glue the frames up that way the glue won´t be sucked up, the primary reason why the joint isn´t so strong. a 45° edge is only borderline endgrain. Its going to be strong enough for a frame

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