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Ridgid TS2424-1 ripping issues

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Forum topic by rywi posted 04-09-2018 01:06 PM 1268 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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rywi

3 posts in 471 days


04-09-2018 01:06 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw question

I recently purchased a TS2424 on CL and have been working on getting it dialed in. Both the blade and fence were out of square. I got the fence square and the blade within spec but I noticed that in order to get the belt tight, I have to let the motor hang which tweaks the blade about an 1/16th of an inch. I can account for that by adjusting the trunnions but I’m wondering if there is a better solution, maybe a new belt.

Also as I have been testing it out, when I rip wood (I tried some short pieces of 3/4 plywood) the cut goes well until the very end. I am pushing the board through straight but for some reason the blade catches the wood and knocks the corner off of the end of the board, leaving a less than 90 degree cut on the final 1/2 inch of the board. Thoughts?


9 replies so far

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BlasterStumps

1328 posts in 862 days


#1 posted 04-09-2018 01:24 PM

would seem that something is slightly turning your workpiece as it progresses thru there at the end of cut. Maybe post a picture of the saw showing the blade area, fence and output area.

-- "I build for function first, looks second. Most times I never get around to looks." - Mike, western Colorado

View Robert's profile

Robert

3441 posts in 1903 days


#2 posted 04-09-2018 01:55 PM

Sequence is 1) blade parallel to miter slot, then 2) blade parallel to fence.

If you set the fence about .003” further away at the back of the blade you will avoid that tear out. Use the same tooth to measure.

As far as the motor hang changing the settings, that may be the saw. That type saw is not going to be made to the tightest tolerances.

Good luck.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View John Smith's profile

John Smith

1889 posts in 585 days


#3 posted 04-09-2018 01:57 PM

are you using a splitter or riving knife that could possible be out of alignment or not the correct one ?
when purchasing used or second hand machines, there is no telling what the P/O has done to it.

.

-- I am a painter. That's what I do. I paint things --

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ChefHDAN

1417 posts in 3272 days


#4 posted 04-09-2018 03:01 PM

I think you need to look at your technique and the tools you’re using for measurements. I’ve got the same saw, and have it dead nut square. Kelly Mehler's table saw book was a great help to me, especially since he uses the saw in his diagrams. I used the combo square first, then got a dial indicator, and finally got the woodpecker saw gauge when it went on sale one year. If it wasn’t so expensive I might have bought it sooner, and wish I had, super simple to get very accurate readings and not fuss around.

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View rywi's profile

rywi

3 posts in 471 days


#5 posted 04-10-2018 05:28 AM

Thanks for the input guys. I was able to get the blade square, writhing the tolerances of the manual, being careful to make sure it didn’t move as I tightened the bolts. I also tried moving the fence about a 32nd to 16th out over the length of the entire fence and that seemed to fix the tear out issue.

View Loren's profile

Loren

10477 posts in 4070 days


#6 posted 04-10-2018 06:14 AM

http://www.in-lineindustries.com/products/contractor-saw-pals/

Some people install grade 8 bolts in the trunnions
and feel that helps.

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ChefHDAN

1417 posts in 3272 days


#7 posted 04-10-2018 01:38 PM


I also tried moving the fence about a 32nd to 16th out over the length of the entire fence and that seemed to fix the tear out issue.

- rywi

But now your cuts are not square, I forgot to ask about the blade, what are you running and/or is it the one that came on the saw. I’ve got mine set square front & back, I really think your issue is more of either blade or maybe your push stick use. I had a ZC throat plate that was a bit flexible and if I was applying downforce with my push stick the plate would flex and the end of the cut could catch slightly.

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

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rywi

3 posts in 471 days


#8 posted 04-10-2018 02:04 PM

But now your cuts are not square, I forgot to ask about the blade, what are you running and/or is it the one that came on the saw. I ve got mine set square front & back, I really think your issue is more of either blade or maybe your push stick use. I had a ZC throat plate that was a bit flexible and if I was applying downforce with my push stick the plate would flex and the end of the cut could catch slightly.

- ChefHDAN

I am running a Frued thin kerf blade, 50 tooth with the stock throat plate. I have a dial indicator on order so the blade is as straight as I can get it with a combo square. I will have to measure some cuts tonight and see if they are square or not. So far it’s the only way I haven’t gotten tear out

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ChefHDAN

1417 posts in 3272 days


#9 posted 04-10-2018 05:07 PM

Yeah, it’s kind of a PITA to do it with a combo, I think you’ll get a better result with an indicator I run the same combo blade, but I do also have a zero clearance plate for it, which reduces the tear out, the CR 1 version here is really nice has no flex in it.

If it’s your first saw there’s lots to learn and the best way is by knowing how to use it safely then get to using it, all projects eventually come down to jigs and boxes… lol

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

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