Want to add mj splitters on my old Craftsman Table Saw

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Forum topic by logwolf posted 04-06-2018 10:31 PM 3570 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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34 posts in 1334 days

04-06-2018 10:31 PM

Topic tags/keywords: old craftsman tablesaw splitters

I bought this old direct drive 10 inch Craftsman tablesaw a few years back. The riving knife-dust hood-pawl assembly could not be adjusted and kept stationary. Too dangerous. So I want to install the MJ splitters everyone is using. However my Cratsman saw has a blade insert that goes all the way to the edge of the table, and it looks shorter then all the ones seen on youtube.(see my pics)
Does anyone have a similar tablesaw and been able to add the MJ splitters on it? It appears I would have to use or make a longer insert to go past the table edge to fit two splitters in it.

-- Larry

8 replies so far

View Rich's profile


5688 posts in 1392 days

#1 posted 04-07-2018 01:05 AM

It looks like the insert may go all the way back with the opening almost to the edge, but the blade appears to be far enough forward that you could make an insert to fit and there would be enough space in the back to add the splitter.

You’ll be better off making an insert even without the splitter since it would be zero clearance and you’ll get much cleaner cuts, as well as having a visual reference for the blade width.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View avsmusic1's profile


652 posts in 1487 days

#2 posted 04-07-2018 02:30 AM

Rich nailed it

You may be able to buy a zero clearance insert too if you prefer not to make it.

View MrUnix's profile


8153 posts in 3001 days

#3 posted 04-07-2018 05:12 AM

What exactly is the problem with the OEM splitter/guard? I’ve always disliked the way the blade guard was attached on the OEM ones, but it’s pretty easy to cut that part off and just leave the splitter portion. IMO, that is a better option than the MJ splitter, since the MJ is fixed in place and can only be used when cutting 90 degree cuts… for bevels, it needs to be removed. That isn’t an issue with the stock splitter since it pivots with the blade.

Alternatively, you can make your own splitter using the OEM one as a pattern so it attaches properly, and you can shape it however you like.


-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Charlie H.'s profile

Charlie H.

405 posts in 1452 days

#4 posted 04-07-2018 05:44 AM

I made a home brew equivalent to the MJ splitter by gluing a piece of hardwoodinto the zero clearance insert.
I was quite pleased with it.
It lasted for about three hours until I ran the fence across it and broke it off.
Didn’t bother to fix it.

-- Regards, Charlie in Rowlett, TX --------I talk to myself, because sometimes I need expert advice.---------

View Planeman40's profile


1500 posts in 3563 days

#5 posted 04-07-2018 06:16 PM

If you make a splitter, know that the thickness of the splitter should be the width of the blade tooth. You can probably order a small piece of steel or aluminum about the right thickness from Aluminum would be easier to work with.

-- Always remember: It is a mathematical certainty that half the people in this country are below average in intelligence!

View logwolf's profile


34 posts in 1334 days

#6 posted 04-07-2018 07:05 PM

Mr Unix, the oem guard is not attached to the blade area. It is also a fixed attachment from the side of the table. On this particular old model the splitter guard would need to come off if I cut a 45 degree bevel. But yes, if I had a newer tablesaw, I probably would not do this.

-- Larry

View logwolf's profile


34 posts in 1334 days

#7 posted 04-07-2018 07:09 PM

Thanks everyone for your feedback. I’ll probably make an insert out of wood or plastic and see if the splitters will work.
Thanks again.

-- Larry

View Rich's profile


5688 posts in 1392 days

#8 posted 04-07-2018 08:53 PM

The MJ Splitters do not equal the saw blade kerf like the home brew items mentioned. They are thinner than the blade, and the holes for them are drilled such that the outside faces are equal to the kerf. This is done with a jig that’s part of the kit.

I’ve used them since they came out because my older Delta doesn’t have a riving knife. I found the most useful splitter to add is the one that sits flush with the fence side of the blade and presses the cutoff against the fence to prevent it from drifting away. They come in really handy ripping 80” 8/4 hardwood for residential door stiles.

The splitter that sits flush with the other side of the blade mainly just prevents the cut from closing up. I’ve had a couple of instances where there was so much tension in the wood that it clamped down on those babies and I couldn’t complete the cut.

MicroJig has another option that’s part of their system. That’s to add what they call a kerf keeper instead of the outside (rear) splitter. It’s the width of the cut and the idea is that if the kerf starts to close, it will pinch the kerf keeper and pull it out so it stays with the board and keeps the kerf open. I haven’t tried using that, I do just fine with the single splitter on the fence side of the blade.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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