Bandsaw challenges

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Forum topic by Jarred posted 04-01-2018 02:29 PM 1016 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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90 posts in 2649 days

04-01-2018 02:29 PM

Topic tags/keywords: bandsaw troubleshooting alignment help

Happy Easter fellow jocks!

I am having some problems with my bandsaw. I have a 2hp Laguna 14BX that I use mostly to make blanks for turning, often from thick, dry wood and with hardwoods like ash. In other words, I tend to push the saw and have had to change tires several times because of melting them with too much heat from the blade.

I know the stock guides are popular, but I have had trouble keeping them accurately aligned. The adjustment knobs do not seem to adequately tighten without twisting. With any blade flex, they seem to misalign quickly. Otherwise, I have been happy with the saw and have added a dust collection port just under the table surface, which has worked very well.

The most recent problems began with a stupid mistake. I made a circle-cutting jig and ran about 50 blanks through without a problem, until the blade dulled and flexed, damaging the lower tire. Tired of changing the tire with the wheel in place, I removed the lower wheel. the manual did not give instructions for this, and instead of removing the drive belt and front of the disc brake, I also loosened what I thought were mounting bolts from the back of the saw. These were shaft alignment bolts. Putting the wheel back on without any concern to exact tightening of the alignment bolts, I had significant problems tracking the blade. Still not realizing this was an alignment problem, I thought the guides were faulty and tried to better secure these in place by replacing the adjustment knobs with Allen bolts and adding lock washers. This didn’t help.

Once i figured out the wheel alignment was off I tried to adjust the bolts in various ways. I called Laguna, and was told that this was a very unusual problem, and very difficult to fix (although they were helpful, I was basically on my own). I watched the Snodgrass video, but what I needed was more of a factory reset than standard adjustment. I figured that making the wheels coplanar was the best way to start the alignment process. Because the frame of the 14BX extends forward of the wheels, there was no easy way to accurately align them. I cut small notches in the frame of the saw to get access to the front surface of the wheels. I first aligned them without tension, then with tension on. During the whole process I tested the alignment by trying a straight and curved cut. Before cutting the frame notches and eyeballing it the blade would track differently on the wheels, on the crown of the top wheel and forward of the crown of the bottom wheel. After more accurate alignment the blade tracks on the crown of both wheels without wandering. The cut has improved as well, going from shaky even with a straight cut and completely flexing to the inside of the saw (clockwise rotation of the blade to about 45 degrees) with a gentle curve, to perfect cut straight and causing mild deflection with diagonal lines on the piece and more minor guide misalignment once the wheels are coplaner.

I have a new set of urethane bandsaw tires on the machine, so I am pretty sure these aren’t the problem. Here are the possible problems, and I would appreciate any advice I can get:

1) The vertical guidepost is a bit wobbly. I am planning to check if it is square to the table. Not sure if this is able to be adjusted on this saw.
2) I will check the cut on another blade (using 1/2” 3 TPI blade meant for dry wood currently). Could be this one is dull.
3) I am using the upper limit of the tension on the tension gauge (for each individual blade), so I don’t think the blade is undertensioned. When I tap the exposed part of the blade it doesn’t deflect more than 1/8”. Could too much tension be a problem?
4) Anyone have an tips or tricks with the Laguna guides?
5) I am aware that the wheels being coplanar is probably overestimated, but I could not find any resources on a factory reset of the wheel position, so didn’t have much choice.

Thanks for any help!


-- My projects are imperfect in every way, just like their creator. Their creator loves them nonetheless, just like mine.

5 replies so far

View Andybb's profile


2349 posts in 1207 days

#1 posted 04-01-2018 04:05 PM

Call Laguna customer service. They have been excellent recently.

So….You melted the tires cutting pen blanks? Sounds like you’re pushing the saw beyond its limits but cutting blanks shouldn’t do that. I have a 1412 and am trying to imagine getting the blade that hot. Maybe a little beeswax would help if the blade is getting dull. Like you said, too much tension could exacerbate that.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View eflanders's profile


326 posts in 2454 days

#2 posted 04-01-2018 05:03 PM

Just a thought as I do not have a Laguna but if the tires are getting melted, wouldn’t the ceramic guides contribute to the heat issue in addition to the other things? When I shopped for a saw years ago, I tried the laguna and the first thing I noticed were all the sparks coming from guides contacting the blade…

View LesB's profile


2306 posts in 4046 days

#3 posted 04-01-2018 05:13 PM

First off watch this video on setting up saw, best one I have seen.

I have never heard of “melted” tires on a band saw. With a 3/8” skip tooth blade I cut through 8’ of maple like butter so I don’t know what you are doing to generate all that heat. Coplaner wheels is BS for the most part as you will see in the video the top wheel does most of the blade alignment. Try Snodgrasses set up instructions and see if that solves you problems.

-- Les B, Oregon

View Aj2's profile


2648 posts in 2401 days

#4 posted 04-01-2018 06:03 PM

To me it sounds like you need a bigger saw. A 14 inch bandsaw is small potatoes in the Resaw World.

-- Aj

View pastry's profile


2 posts in 658 days

#5 posted 04-02-2018 08:08 PM

I have owned everything from a 36 inch American Machinery bandsaw made in 1896 to a 14 inch no name and have never come close to melting the tires despite some heavy duty cutting.I bet the origin of your problems was always a dull blade.I cant help you with the alignment problem without packing a box full of tools and dial indicators.However I am going to recommend that once aligned buy carbide tipped blades.They last a long time,do not heat quickly as they dont dull quickly,and you can get them resharpened.With a 3 tooth blade you will be amazed how they cut.Also if you tighten to the max,buy blades an inch shorter .Never saw a band saw adjusted to the max

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