Got a craigslist Jet JWTS-10CW and the Splitter/riving knife is missing.

What does it say in the manual?

I don’t this model has a splitter other than the blade guard.

I have the Powermatic version of this saw and it’s splitter is part of the blade guard.
The bottom picture you posted looks just like my saw. That bolt on the bracket is where the blade guard attaches.

Here is a link to the manual for your saw.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&ved=0ahUKEwjJ2NW3kO_ZAhVM7VQKHSFzDhgQFghCMAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww2.woodcraft.com%2Fpdf%2F708100.pdf&usg=AOvVaw1cjeoeDQOwloT6MYvR2x0W

This explains it better than I can.

Chem

-- When you leave your shop for the night, make sure you can always count to 10.

I have this model. The splitter is built into the guard and pawls—all one unit. The front of it connects to the bolt shown on the left side of the blade in your last photo. The back connects to a rod that extends out the back or the saw. This link is to a manual for your machine (I think) and if you look at around page 15 you will start to see photos of the splitter and how it is installed.

-- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

Your saw came with a traditional splitter and guard assembly, not a riving knife. It needs to mount from two places….the back of it just behind the table, and the front segment just behind the blade. There should be some sort of a rod sticking out the back that holds a bracket that the back of the splitter mounts to. Without that rod and bracket, the stock splitter can’t be mounted:

The only pic I could find has only the splitter with the guard removed, but it should give you an idea of how it’s supposed to mount:

Here’s another similar example:

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

This is usually the part where the OP chimes back in, and gives an update. Still here?

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

A little late in my reply admittedly…I purchased the table saw about a year ago and had to put it aside as other house projects got in the way. But for the long overdue update….

I finally got it out of the corner of my shop and fired her up. I was never able to find a proper riving knife for it, though I purchased several different styles to see if I could rig something up.

Anyways, at the poor advise of others “I take all of that crap off, never had a problem etc etc” I went ahead and started cutting, and ended up having TWO kickbacks in the span of 10mins…...fortunately still have all 10 fingers!!

The first kickback I was cross cutting a shelf (3/4 pine, 30×18”), and as I got 75ish% through the cut the forward pressure I was applying bent the two sides of the cut into the kerf and BAM! both pieces shot back smacking me in the gut. A nervous laugh later, and realizing the stupidity of it (i knew as I was cutting that it was happening but i didnt have a problem on the first 2 boards I cut), I pressed on doing some ripping…This time ripping same boards into 10” wide pieces. I just finished the rip and at the end of the cut the farthest end of the board started drifting away from the fence, and with no splitter or riving knife went right into the blade and came shooting back past me across the shop.

Both times I was using push sticks and has my hands well away from the blade, but fingers and hands aren’t the only thing injured in kickback. I was fortunate to only have a bruised stomach and broken ego. Needless to say I gave up after the second kickback and will be taking some steps to mitigate this for future use. I can definitely say it was a learning experience, as I consider myself to not be a total moron, and I have a healthy respect for tools especially the table saw, but at the same time I am a novice with table saw use.

So firstly just sharing the story as a warning (especially to those who are newer to wood working). Some big lessons I learned are…
1) cross cut sleds are great as having (and using) one applies even forward pressure to the board preventing inward drift towards the blade.
2) a riving knife or splitter is a must as they too help prevent inward drift towards the blade.

My question to anyone who’s read this far are…

1) What else can be done to prevent kickback, especially with regards to keeping the piece farthest from you from drifting away from the fence (without leaning over/around the blade)?

Things I’ve read are…
warped, sticky/sap covered, and/or dull blades all increase risk
using riving knife/splitter and zero clearance insert
and things like having depth of cut just enough for the wood

Before any further use on my saw I’m going to add a zero clearance insert with a microjig splitter (the little green tab ones), add a feather board to be used whenever possible, and get a better gripper push device like the yellow/green (microjig I think) ones.

I think that you can get a Shark Guard for your model

Probably not too helpful, but I crosscut with a handheld circular saw and a square. When I rip on the table saw I do a bit more than half the length then stop and flip the board end for end. But nothing I do is furniture /cabinet quality stuff anyway.

I’m glad you weren’t hurt by the kickbacks. I would not suggest using the saw without some sort of splitter.

I have the same saw and I use a homemade splitter because I prefer to not use the original guard/splitter. I just made one from one of those thin shelving brackets available at HD and I cut off the top and drilled a hole for mounting. Here’s a couple pictures.

Here is the stock splitter/guard assembly.

I would suggest that you also check to make sure that your fence is parallel to the blade and the blade parallel to the miter slot. You can buy an assembly that mounts to your rear trunnion called PALS that will help when making blade alignment changes.

There is a version of the Sharkguard that will fit your saw, which includes both blade guard and a splitter. The MicroJig splitters can work as well.

Agree with checking fence and blade alignment.

You can also use featherboards to help keep the workpiece tight to the fence.

Thanks everyone!

Ok so I’m going to build a zero clearance insert and use the micro jig for that, and for fun I also made a riving knife/splitter piece out of some scrap metal. Checked the blade and fence, and they’re parallel to each other. Also got some feather boards. Hoping to use this thing now and not cut, kill, or maim myself! haha.