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Got a craigslist Jet JWTS-10CW and the Splitter/riving knife is missing.

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Forum topic by jo83ben posted 03-15-2018 06:19 PM 2141 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jo83ben

5 posts in 466 days


03-15-2018 06:19 PM

Hi all! first time poster, long time reader!

I’ve dabbled in wood working for a long time now, but just recently have been able to start setting up my own shop. I found a 1996 Jet JWTS-10CW on craigslist that is in excellent shape and well cared for. Only big problem I’ve found is its missing the riving knife/splitter, which I understand to be a worth while safety item??

I ordered one off of ereplacementpart.com for 12 bucks, but I can’t seem to make sense of how it attaches. Of note, I have found very little online (including jet’s website) about the 10 “CW” designated saws.

I’m wondering if anyone has one of these saws with a splitter that could help me figure out how to attach this thing or have any other ideas?

I’ll try to attach some pics below of the saw and its innards. haha


14 replies so far

View Steve's profile

Steve

1283 posts in 976 days


#1 posted 03-15-2018 07:23 PM

What does it say in the manual?

View fivecodys's profile

fivecodys

1427 posts in 2030 days


#2 posted 03-15-2018 08:08 PM

I don’t this model has a splitter other than the blade guard.

I have the Powermatic version of this saw and it’s splitter is part of the blade guard.
The bottom picture you posted looks just like my saw. That bolt on the bracket is where the blade guard attaches.

Here is a link to the manual for your saw.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&ved=0ahUKEwjJ2NW3kO_ZAhVM7VQKHSFzDhgQFghCMAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww2.woodcraft.com%2Fpdf%2F708100.pdf&usg=AOvVaw1cjeoeDQOwloT6MYvR2x0W

This explains it better than I can.

Chem

-- When you leave your shop for the night, make sure you can always count to 10.

View Bill_Steele's profile

Bill_Steele

515 posts in 2125 days


#3 posted 03-15-2018 09:42 PM

I have this model. The splitter is built into the guard and pawls—all one unit. The front of it connects to the bolt shown on the left side of the blade in your last photo. The back connects to a rod that extends out the back or the saw. This link is to a manual for your machine (I think) and if you look at around page 15 you will start to see photos of the splitter and how it is installed.

View Woodknack's profile

Woodknack

12810 posts in 2773 days


#4 posted 03-15-2018 09:50 PM

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

8290 posts in 3769 days


#5 posted 03-15-2018 09:59 PM

Your saw came with a traditional splitter and guard assembly, not a riving knife. It needs to mount from two places….the back of it just behind the table, and the front segment just behind the blade. There should be some sort of a rod sticking out the back that holds a bracket that the back of the splitter mounts to. Without that rod and bracket, the stock splitter can’t be mounted:

The only pic I could find has only the splitter with the guard removed, but it should give you an idea of how it’s supposed to mount:

Here’s another similar example:

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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knotscott

8290 posts in 3769 days


#6 posted 03-18-2018 04:54 PM

This is usually the part where the OP chimes back in, and gives an update. Still here?

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View jo83ben's profile

jo83ben

5 posts in 466 days


#7 posted 01-29-2019 03:40 PM

A little late in my reply admittedly…I purchased the table saw about a year ago and had to put it aside as other house projects got in the way. But for the long overdue update….

I finally got it out of the corner of my shop and fired her up. I was never able to find a proper riving knife for it, though I purchased several different styles to see if I could rig something up.

Anyways, at the poor advise of others “I take all of that crap off, never had a problem etc etc” I went ahead and started cutting, and ended up having TWO kickbacks in the span of 10mins…...fortunately still have all 10 fingers!!

The first kickback I was cross cutting a shelf (3/4 pine, 30×18”), and as I got 75ish% through the cut the forward pressure I was applying bent the two sides of the cut into the kerf and BAM! both pieces shot back smacking me in the gut. A nervous laugh later, and realizing the stupidity of it (i knew as I was cutting that it was happening but i didnt have a problem on the first 2 boards I cut), I pressed on doing some ripping…This time ripping same boards into 10” wide pieces. I just finished the rip and at the end of the cut the farthest end of the board started drifting away from the fence, and with no splitter or riving knife went right into the blade and came shooting back past me across the shop.

Both times I was using push sticks and has my hands well away from the blade, but fingers and hands aren’t the only thing injured in kickback. I was fortunate to only have a bruised stomach and broken ego. Needless to say I gave up after the second kickback and will be taking some steps to mitigate this for future use. I can definitely say it was a learning experience, as I consider myself to not be a total moron, and I have a healthy respect for tools especially the table saw, but at the same time I am a novice with table saw use.

So firstly just sharing the story as a warning (especially to those who are newer to wood working). Some big lessons I learned are…
1) cross cut sleds are great as having (and using) one applies even forward pressure to the board preventing inward drift towards the blade.
2) a riving knife or splitter is a must as they too help prevent inward drift towards the blade.

My question to anyone who’s read this far are…

1) What else can be done to prevent kickback, especially with regards to keeping the piece farthest from you from drifting away from the fence (without leaning over/around the blade)?

Things I’ve read are…
warped, sticky/sap covered, and/or dull blades all increase risk
using riving knife/splitter and zero clearance insert
and things like having depth of cut just enough for the wood

Before any further use on my saw I’m going to add a zero clearance insert with a microjig splitter (the little green tab ones), add a feather board to be used whenever possible, and get a better gripper push device like the yellow/green (microjig I think) ones.

View JohnDon's profile

JohnDon

88 posts in 1563 days


#8 posted 01-29-2019 04:16 PM

I think that you can get a Shark Guard for your model

View dhazelton's profile

dhazelton

2837 posts in 2690 days


#9 posted 01-29-2019 04:46 PM

Probably not too helpful, but I crosscut with a handheld circular saw and a square. When I rip on the table saw I do a bit more than half the length then stop and flip the board end for end. But nothing I do is furniture /cabinet quality stuff anyway.

View Bill_Steele's profile

Bill_Steele

515 posts in 2125 days


#10 posted 01-30-2019 04:57 PM

I’m glad you weren’t hurt by the kickbacks. I would not suggest using the saw without some sort of splitter.

I have the same saw and I use a homemade splitter because I prefer to not use the original guard/splitter. I just made one from one of those thin shelving brackets available at HD and I cut off the top and drilled a hole for mounting. Here’s a couple pictures.

Here is the stock splitter/guard assembly.

I would suggest that you also check to make sure that your fence is parallel to the blade and the blade parallel to the miter slot. You can buy an assembly that mounts to your rear trunnion called PALS that will help when making blade alignment changes.

View EdDantes's profile

EdDantes

72 posts in 304 days


#11 posted 01-31-2019 03:16 AM

There is a version of the Sharkguard that will fit your saw, which includes both blade guard and a splitter. The MicroJig splitters can work as well.

Agree with checking fence and blade alignment.

You can also use featherboards to help keep the workpiece tight to the fence.

View jo83ben's profile

jo83ben

5 posts in 466 days


#12 posted 02-02-2019 08:51 PM

Thanks everyone!

Ok so I’m going to build a zero clearance insert and use the micro jig for that, and for fun I also made a riving knife/splitter piece out of some scrap metal. Checked the blade and fence, and they’re parallel to each other. Also got some feather boards. Hoping to use this thing now and not cut, kill, or maim myself! haha.

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jo83ben

5 posts in 466 days


#13 posted 02-02-2019 08:54 PM

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jo83ben

5 posts in 466 days


#14 posted 02-02-2019 08:55 PM

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