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Forum topic by skogie1 | posted 03-05-2018 08:26 PM | 1743 views | 0 times favorited | 28 replies | ![]() |
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03-05-2018 08:26 PM |
Topic tags/keywords: end grain cutting board cupped cracked walnut maple Maple and Walnut end grain cutting board. I’ve made many end grain boards and have never had this happen. Seemingly overnight, it cupped like a bowl and split. Why such a severe cup? Here are the particulars: Maple and Walnut What do you guys think I did wrong?? |
28 replies so far
#1 posted 03-05-2018 08:34 PM |
Normally/usually, wood cutting boards should be dried and stored on edge or end, not laid flat. And if it was flat and in water, the bottom might have absorbed liquid and swelled to what the picture shows. It’s the only thing I can think of, anyway. -- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. - OldTools Archive - |
#2 posted 03-05-2018 08:42 PM |
X2 with Smitty – cutting boards require a slow air dry on all sides equally. (never force dry it). in this case, try the reverse action . . . lay the opposite side down on a damp towel over night. -- I am a painter: that's what I do, I like to paint things. -- |
#3 posted 03-05-2018 08:57 PM |
I’ve heard similar tips as what John is suggesting. Hopefully the cupped end will expand and level it out while on the towel. John, what would you think should be done after that, if in fact it lays down flat. |
#4 posted 03-05-2018 09:12 PM |
I would let it acclimate and dry for several days before using it again. I should post some photos of a cutting board that my wife ruined because there are dozens of good tips on how to care for a wood cutting board. -- I am a painter: that's what I do, I like to paint things. -- |
#5 posted 03-05-2018 09:12 PM |
You can always get some rubber or silicon feet for the corners. It will do 2 things. First it will keep the board from sliding around and second, will allow air flow above and blow the board at all times. |
#6 posted 03-05-2018 09:58 PM |
Thanks guys, I should have added one detail. It does have rubber feet on it. So it never laid flat on the counter, it was always raised. I wasn’t clear on that. I figured it was safe to let it air dry in the prone position since the feet elevated it off the countertop. But I will try drying it on edge next time. The only problem I can with drying it on edge is, won’t the edge in contact with the countertop hold more water? Thanks for taking the time to respond. |
#7 posted 03-05-2018 10:18 PM |
ok – to be clear on drying – I put mine in an old fashioned dish drainer – I do not have a dishwasher. -- I am a painter: that's what I do, I like to paint things. -- |
#8 posted 03-05-2018 11:00 PM |
Moisture enters and leaves wood through end grain much faster than edge grain. Obviously, you don’t want to leave it sitting on standing water, but dried as best as possible and then on edge until dry shouldn’t cause any issues, especially if you use something like a dish drainer, as John mentions. That will allow the board to dry better and reduce the warpage. -- https://www.jtplaneworks.com - In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is. |
#9 posted 03-05-2018 11:26 PM |
I suspect the mismatched grain orientation didn’t help. -- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/ |
#10 posted 03-05-2018 11:48 PM |
Perhaps capillary action and gravity pulled all There’s an experiment where a stick is put in |
#11 posted 03-06-2018 12:43 AM |
Try putting it in a warm oven over night -- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins. |
#12 posted 03-06-2018 01:01 AM |
Threads like these always intrigue me. My mother has been using a maple cutting board for a decade or more without any special treatment. I’m not trying to start any big debate or anything- it’s just interesting to me |
#13 posted 03-06-2018 02:08 AM |
I like this explanation. That makes sense. If the water was pulled from the surface down to the bottom (or rather, gravity forced it down) then the water would collect there and swell the fibers and cause it to cup. Thanks.
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#14 posted 03-06-2018 02:08 AM |
Intrigues me too. That’s why I put it out there. I have other boards that have never had any problems. |
#15 posted 03-06-2018 03:23 AM |
All of the posts make sense and I have to say that it could be any of the above….that said, one thing I have found and I have seen it enough to know it is true; when a board has tension of stress and “wants” to warp or cup there is no stopping it. I have face joined and sled planed cupped and/or warped boards to perfection and tried to use them and the warp or cup always comes back. Now, I am not talking about getting rid of a measly 1/16th of an inch cup, but I’d be willing to bet a brand spankin’ new PowerMatic of your choice that if you got it good and dry and faced that thing flat right now it would do the same thing within a few months. |
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