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Square cut on one side of table saw only

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Forum topic by optimusprimer92 posted 03-05-2018 02:33 AM 1288 views 0 times favorited 23 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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optimusprimer92

43 posts in 981 days


03-05-2018 02:33 AM

I have had run out issues with my Delta 36-725 and am unable to fix it with any amount of sanding or grinding or the arbor. Anyways, the arbor is deformed or something and that’s just how it is. I made a new tablesaw sled and squared the kerf and fence to the blade. I did the cuts on the left side and did the 5 cut method. I was able to get .001” in 96 inches and am happy with that. The problem lies in the fact that this is only on the left side of the blade. Anything I cut on the right side is out of square by about 1/16” in a distance of around 15”. The cut off on the left is perfectly square but the right sucks. What the heck!?


23 replies so far

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optimusprimer92

43 posts in 981 days


#1 posted 03-05-2018 02:35 AM

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Woodknack

12842 posts in 2799 days


#2 posted 03-05-2018 02:48 AM

What you describe isn’t runout. If the arbor were deformed you would be getting crazy vibration but it wouldn’t cause the problem you describe. Have you checked that the miter slots are parallel? The sled would be hard to move if not. Have you aligned the blade to the miter slot. Does the cut piece contact the back of the blade on the right side but not the left? Is the sled fence straight?

BTW, you posted this before and we tried to explain then that it wasn’t runout causing the problem.
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/254577

-- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

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optimusprimer92

43 posts in 981 days


#3 posted 03-05-2018 03:01 AM

I really think that I have runout. I have a large amount of blade wobble that is easily visible upon start up and shutoff. The kerf is also larger on both sides than the blade itself. Lastly, if I mark a tooth on the blade and set it firmly against a keft in a cut piece, as I rotate the blade from front to back, it will shift away from the cut. If I keep rotating the blade by hand, the teeth move closer and farther from the kerf whether it is measured from the back or the front. If that is not runnout, I have no idea what it is. Oh, and the blade is a brand new Diablo that is dead flat.

Now as for fixing it, how do you align the miter slots to a blade that is attached to an arbor with runout (if that is the case)? The miter slots are parallel and the sled slides easily.

One last thing. I believe my last thread was because of my old crosscut sled. I don’t know what happened, but when I made it, the cuts were square but at some point something happened and it wouldn’t cut square anymore. That is why I made the new one.

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bbasiaga

1243 posts in 2414 days


#4 posted 03-05-2018 03:02 AM

Is your fence straight/flat?

-- Part of engineering is to know when to put your calculator down and pick up your tools.

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optimusprimer92

43 posts in 981 days


#5 posted 03-05-2018 03:05 AM

Ya, the back fence is square, or so I thought. When I adjusted for square with the 5 cut method, I did everything from the left side of the blade so I adjusted the fence accordingly.

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Woodknack

12842 posts in 2799 days


#6 posted 03-05-2018 03:24 AM

Troubleshooting is a step by step process, you don’t start at a conclusion and work backwards. It sounds like you’ve never set up the saw properly so you need to do that before troubleshooting a sled. Jump on youtube and watch some videos on setting up a table saw.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tU7Z3h0ovcs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxRSarTJLMU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNT5SkxIhKQ

-- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

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optimusprimer92

43 posts in 981 days


#7 posted 03-05-2018 03:24 AM


Does the cut piece contact the back of the blade on the right side but not the left? Is the sled fence straight?

When I cut a piece on the sled, the left side of the cut looks like ( l ) but the right side is angled like ( / ).

And I exaggerated a bit. The difference is about 1/32”, not 1/16”

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IantheTinker

285 posts in 546 days


#8 posted 03-05-2018 03:25 AM

I would be taking a second, and then a third, look at the back fence of that sled. I don’t understand how you could get a square cut on one side and not on the other, especially since the blade is flat. It just doesn’t make sense that it would be the arbor, at least not by my understanding.

I have so much trouble with squaring the back fence on my sleds that I am thinking of using aluminum angle as the fence on my next one.

-- pensivewoodworker.com

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Woodknack

12842 posts in 2799 days


#9 posted 03-05-2018 03:27 AM

The only way I can see it happening is if the blade is not parallel to the miter slot and the back of the blade is widening the kerf. But that should be pretty obvious. It would also create a kerf much wider than the blade.

-- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

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optimusprimer92

43 posts in 981 days


#10 posted 03-05-2018 03:31 AM



Troubleshooting is a step by step process, you don t start at a conclusion and work backwards. It sounds like you ve never set up the saw properly so you need to do that before troubleshooting a sled. Jump on youtube and watch some videos on setting up a table saw.

Ya, I guess man. I thought I had it set up before I ever turned it on. I originally had the miter slots squared to the blade perfectly. Took me about a week to get the fence set up because the rails are so finicky. I don’t know anymore. Now if I measure from the miter slot, the teeth are inconsistent from front to back. They literally change distance front to back when I rotate the same tooth. Then when I pick another tooth, it will be opposite from the original tooth. Everytime I ever raised the blade or lowered it, I had to resquare it for some reason. This is another reason I was lead to believe the arbor was the culprit.

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optimusprimer92

43 posts in 981 days


#11 posted 03-05-2018 03:33 AM



I would be taking a second, and then a third, look at the back fence of that sled. I don’t understand how you could get a square cut on one side and not on the other, especially since the blade is flat. It just doesn’t make sense that it would be the arbor, at least not by my understanding.

I have so much trouble with squaring the back fence on my sleds that I am thinking of using aluminum angle as the fence on my next one.

- IantheTinker

I get that ! I’m about to chuck this thing. My old ridgid jobsite saw never gave me even half the problems I am having currently.

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optimusprimer92

43 posts in 981 days


#12 posted 03-05-2018 03:35 AM



The only way I can see it happening is if the blade is not parallel to the miter slot and the back of the blade is widening the kerf. But that should be pretty obvious. It would also create a kerf much wider than the blade.

- Woodknack

I’ll give it another shot and see if that works. If the blade wasn’t aligned, wouldn’t the blade just always be at a constant angle compared to the slot? My blade changes angles compared to the slot when rotated by hand.

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000

2859 posts in 1318 days


#13 posted 03-05-2018 03:37 AM

Have you tried it with a different blade?

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IantheTinker

285 posts in 546 days


#14 posted 03-05-2018 03:37 AM



I get that ! I m about to chuck this thing. My old ridgid jobsite saw never gave me even half the problems I am having currently.

- optimusprimer92

My old Dewalt jobsite saw also gave me less trouble that the contractors saw I currently use. But the contractor saw has a much larger table and it is cast iron. So I am willing to tolerate the negatives…for now.

-- pensivewoodworker.com

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optimusprimer92

43 posts in 981 days


#15 posted 03-05-2018 03:42 AM



Have you tried it with a different blade?

- jbay

Sure have. I’ve tried 4 blades lol

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