Titebond or superglue for this?

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Forum topic by JohnMcClure posted 02-16-2018 04:10 AM 715 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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1017 posts in 1412 days

02-16-2018 04:10 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question glue

As you can see in this picture, I wish to attach this walnut handle to the lid of this oak box. While it is long-grain-to-long-grain, there is not very much surface area. Also, since both parts are curvy and the lid is very thin, I’m concerned I may not be able to clamp tightly.

Given this, do you folks suggest I use superglue instead of Titebond?
I also have 5-minute epoxy, and the water-activated void-filling Gorilla glue, but I don’t feel like those are good choices unless y’all weigh in to the contrary.

-- I'd rather be a hammer than a nail

6 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile


8089 posts in 2971 days

#1 posted 02-16-2018 04:15 AM

I’d just use regular wood glue. You don’t need to clamp it down super tight… just set a book or something with a little bit of weight on top of it while it drys.


-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View woodbutcherbynight's profile


6069 posts in 3181 days

#2 posted 02-16-2018 04:38 AM

I agree, heck even some rubber bands would be more than enough.

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

View Andybb's profile


2762 posts in 1375 days

#3 posted 02-16-2018 04:42 AM

Not plus small pilot holes and longish small brass wood screws?? Asking cuz I’m interested in learning and I tend to use overkill when I don’t need to. I know the glue is stronger than the wood but I’d worry it might snap off if bumped.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 4420 days

#4 posted 02-16-2018 04:48 AM

The short grain of the handle may snap
off if the lid is dropped.

One interesting way to avoid this is by cutting
a slot in the “legs” of the handle with the
table saw and inserting splines with the
grain going the other way.

If done that way the handle might break off
at the joint if dropped. I would probably
spline it and put screws in. Mortise and tenon
would be the old school way to do it. Dowels
could be figured out too. You could glue it then
drill 1/4” holes from beneath and insert dowels
up into the handle.

Making it stronger is an interesting exercise but
if you don’t want to bother just glue is probably

View JohnMcClure's profile


1017 posts in 1412 days

#5 posted 02-16-2018 12:46 PM

Thank you all for the suggestions. I will go with regular Titebond and clamp very gently.
AndyBB, I too always have to talk myself out of the overkill fastening methods! And it blows me away that rubber band pressure alone would be sufficient. I really need to do an experiment – to convince myself – in which I clamp one joint tightly, one gently, one with rubber bands, and one “rub joint” with no clamps at all.

Loren, the splines sound very smart and M&T would definitely be the strongest method. It’s a light-duty box and not worth the extra time that would take, so I’ll go the easy and fast route.
Thanks again!

-- I'd rather be a hammer than a nail

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2836 posts in 3694 days

#6 posted 02-16-2018 01:11 PM

I would just glue it and screw it.

Rubber bands work very well as clamps. I assemble small boxes, I make, using rubber bands as “clamps”.

-- No PHD just a DD214 Lubbock Texas

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