Which Drawer Lock Bit with 1/2" Shank should I buy?

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Forum topic by ohtimberwolf posted 02-12-2018 12:13 AM 821 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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1009 posts in 3197 days

02-12-2018 12:13 AM

Topic tags/keywords: drawer lock bits router lock bit

Which Drawer Lock Bit with 1/2” Shank should I buy?
I’m not a pro, I will just be building a new kitchen for us with many drawers and cabinets and a large pantry. I don’t want to break the bank but I don’t want junk either. Please include any plusses or minuses that you believe would be important.

Prices I see are in about the same price range or within ten to fifteen dollars difference so money doesn’t seem to be an issue but quality is.

In this link which would you buy if you were in my place or would you recommend something else? I will be using a face frame of hardwood and the box will be plywood, what wood would you recommend for the drawers?

Is this video a good build for drawer joints? Larry

-- Just a barn cat, now gone to cat heaven.

7 replies so far

View John_'s profile


251 posts in 2551 days

#1 posted 02-12-2018 02:07 AM

I don’t have any experience with a drawer lock, but I do with a lock miter bit which is pretty similar

My ‘go to’ router bits are Whiteside. I would look their 3347 if your going to be using 1/2” material, the 3352 is for 3/4” or thicker

They also have a pdf file with some instructions on how to set it up

Regarding the wood, I would consider popular or maple, depending on your budget. I have also even used baltic birch with dovetails and it worked out pretty well, but a lot is going to depend on your personal preference and $$$

View Mike_D_S's profile


605 posts in 3060 days

#2 posted 02-12-2018 03:49 AM

I’ve never gone wrong buying a Whiteside bit and would definitely recommend it over Freud.

I’ve made 4 or 5 dozen drawers with a drawer lock bit. They seem to be holding up fairly well and I don’t have any reported failures. But for a few drawers that are definitely going to have heavy weight (silverware drawers for example) I’ll reinforce the drawer front with two short pieces of 1/4 dowel drilled in on either side after the drawer is assembled.

The one thing is getting the height and depth right. After setting it up with test cuts several times, I used part of an old poly cutting boards and made a couple of setup jigs to help me set the bit pretty much dead on.


-- No honey, that's not new, I've had that forever......

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1315 posts in 2385 days

#3 posted 02-12-2018 03:52 AM

+1 on Whiteside. Fantastic router bits and made in the USA to boot.

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#4 posted 02-12-2018 05:06 AM

have this one from Lee Valley and it work really well. I have made about a dozen drawers with it.,33084,46168,69435,46174&ap=1

-- If you are not willing to learn, No one can help you. If you are determined to learn, No one can stop you.

View ohtimberwolf's profile


1009 posts in 3197 days

#5 posted 02-12-2018 01:52 PM

Thanks guys this is exactly what i needed to be sure of, infeed from those who have used them. Thanks again. larry

-- Just a barn cat, now gone to cat heaven.

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1009 posts in 3197 days

#6 posted 02-13-2018 04:11 AM

Thanks to all who posted. I decided on the Whitside 3347 and ordered it. larry

-- Just a barn cat, now gone to cat heaven.

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410 posts in 2562 days

#7 posted 02-13-2018 04:25 AM

None! I usually do dovetails. Those joints will never fail.

-- Steve: Franklin, WI

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