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Forum topic by JohnMcClure | posted 02-09-2018 06:28 PM | 13243 views | 0 times favorited | 16 replies | ![]() |
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02-09-2018 06:28 PM |
Topic tags/keywords: question burning torch Here’s my plan: make a tabletop from roughsawn lumber, apply a “mask” in the shape of three bold letters (a company logo), then use a torch to darken the tabletop. My Question: How do I “mask off” the area that I don’t want to torch? or, am I on the wrong track entirely? If I wanted to go a different route, and torch the logo letters and NOT the rest of the surface, is there a different masking or burning technique I should use? -- I'd rather be a hammer than a nail |
16 replies so far
#1 posted 02-09-2018 06:36 PM |
Metal foil tape perhaps? |
#2 posted 02-09-2018 06:41 PM |
I have never done this but I recall my uncle was a neon sign maker and he used asbestos sheets to protect the tops of his work benches. So if you can find some asbestos sheeting and cut the logo out of it and place it on the table it would protect that spot. Yep, I know asbestos is a great evil so you probably can’t find any today. I have a little left from a project about 40 years ago that I use whenever I need a heat shield, like soldering a copper pipe inside a wall. Another thought, my wood stove has a baffle in it to deflect the hot gasses for a secondary burn. The baffle is made of “space age” ceramic foam about 3/8” thick. That could be used in a similar manner to the asbestos. A wood stove store might be able to tell you where to find it. Or try the Enviro wood stove web site. I think they sell it. What ever you use it needs to not only protect from exposure to the flame but also the heat so metal would probably not work too well as it would transmit the heat and possibly leave a branded mark. -- Les B, Oregon |
#3 posted 02-09-2018 06:44 PM |
Air conditioning duct tape. -- "PLUMBER'S BUTT! Get over it, everybody has one" |
#4 posted 02-09-2018 06:54 PM |
Les had a good idea.. I use modern fibre cement sheet as a hot work surface for welding, soldering, etc. (My pyrography rarely gets that or of control i need a blast sheet…) What do you call cement sheet in the states? Gyprock? Fibre board? Well I’d be surprised if you can’t buy at a your local hardware. It’s easy to shape and cut with basic tools and will easily deflect the flame from a butane torch while you scorch that rough sawn. (Hammer and wide blade chisel would work. I often use an angle grinder with a ceramic/ masonry cutting wheel.) |
#5 posted 02-09-2018 07:21 PM |
since you didn’t say “how large” your logo is, the easiest and most economical way to do it would be to sand the table top down to the desired finish , -- I am a painter: that's what I do, I like to paint things. -- |
#6 posted 02-09-2018 09:11 PM |
Could you cut the letters out of hardwood and lay them on the table and then burn the whole thing? Then just remove the letters. or would the heat transfer through the letters as well? |
#7 posted 02-09-2018 09:33 PM |
you are not applying more than a minute of burn time to the wood to be darkened. -- I am a painter: that's what I do, I like to paint things. -- |
#8 posted 02-09-2018 09:56 PM |
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#9 posted 02-09-2018 10:28 PM |
Make a stencil of the logo and paint the stencil area with petroleum jelly or some other fire retardant gel. -- "You know, I'm such a great driver, it's incomprehensible that they took my license away." --Vince Ricardo |
#10 posted 02-09-2018 10:32 PM |
I agree with John’s idea to use hardboard, or any other board for that matter. You need a heat shield. Thin metal won’t burn. But so what, it will still conduct heat really well. Obviously it will provide some protection, but your goal is to not burn the underlying surface, it doesn’t matter if you burn the pattern. The only reason NOT to use something really thick, like 3/4” plywood, would be that being so thick, you’d have the potential to create “heat shadow” where the heat won’t get into the corner formed by the thick material. Of course a similarly thick (1/8”) or so metal would absorb enough heat, in the short time, that it won’t get hot enough to char the underlying wood. This is what I would do if this were a production and you needed to reuse this pattern over and over. But if this is a one-off, I think John’s hardboard idea would be close to ideal. -- Clin |
#11 posted 02-09-2018 11:38 PM |
Metal will reflect most of the radiant heat and that is what burns the wood. When I sweat pipes I use a simple throw away tin pie pan to protect the wood behind and it works like a charm. |
#12 posted 02-10-2018 12:43 AM |
okay – just for demonstration purposes, and, just for grins and giggles, you could cut a design out of just plain old cardboard, has anyone ever boiled water in a brown paper bag on a campfire ??? . -- I am a painter: that's what I do, I like to paint things. -- |
#13 posted 02-10-2018 05:27 AM |
Another possibility for a heat shielding material is sheetrock. 1/4” thickness should do it, if you can find it that thin. It has the advantage that it is very heat resistant. You may scorch the paper face, but it will not sustain a flame. Its fragility could be a problem, though. -- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened |
#14 posted 02-10-2018 05:49 AM |
I saw a show years ago where they cooked an Good idea on the wet cardboard, btw. Easy to |
#15 posted 02-10-2018 01:55 PM |
Loren – my dad showed me that trick back when I was maybe 12 years old. as for the template; it does not matter if you use drywall, cement board, hardboard, 1×6 pine, , -- I am a painter: that's what I do, I like to paint things. -- |
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