Restoring Beisemeyer Fence?

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Forum topic by eric4716 posted 02-07-2018 06:30 PM 704 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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51 posts in 1275 days

02-07-2018 06:30 PM

I am working on restoring a biesemeyer fence. I believe it is a commercial system. I picked it up from the same seller when I bought a second Walker Turner table saw to complete the restoration of the first one. The factory plyboard coverings on each side of the fence were in rough shape so I wanted to possibly use walnut on each side of the fence. I have hardly any experience with a table saw or rip fence. Should I replace the sacrificial coverings the same original height, or will it be beneficial to make them taller? Having minimal experience, I didn’t know if doing it taller would create safety issues. Or is it better to just clamp a taller piece to the fence if the need for a taller fence is needed?

Thanks for the input.

6 replies so far

View splintergroup's profile


3865 posts in 2028 days

#1 posted 02-07-2018 07:14 PM

As with most stuff “it depends…”

You want the fence sides low when you are ripping a narrow board. This allows easier access to the piece for pushing it past the blade. A high fence helps when you are making cuts with the board on its side.

I think the standard height is fine for what I do and when I need more height, I have an aux fence that slips over the original.

Using walnut to replace the sides will work, however you might prefer either laminated plywood (like the original) or even Delrin (like the white, plastic cutting boards) better. They are dimensionally stable and slippery.

View GR8HUNTER's profile


7666 posts in 1518 days

#2 posted 02-07-2018 08:22 PM

i would not a taller fence side …..nor from walnut wood ...just as sg said more stable and slippery with other material ….GOOD LUCK :<))
PS …YOU should post pictures of your WT SAW

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

View MrUnix's profile


8160 posts in 3005 days

#3 posted 02-07-2018 08:29 PM

I’d keep the height stock as well, and use an aux. fence when you need anything higher – best of both worlds.
Just an FYI – I went through this a while back as the faces on mine were pretty torn up. I took the old pieces to a local cabinet shop and told them what I was doing. They gave me the plywood and laminate for free from their scrap pile. And those little laminate sample chips that you get at the BORG make great glide pads – it’s essentially the same stuff that was on there originally. I also made a new handle and end-cap from recycled milk jugs :)


-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View eric4716's profile


51 posts in 1275 days

#4 posted 02-07-2018 09:05 PM

Thanks for the tips. I will probably leave it at the standard height and make any modifications as needed. I thought walnut would work good enough if I keep it waxed. But I will look at the other suggestions to cover the fence.

View eric4716's profile


51 posts in 1275 days

#5 posted 02-07-2018 09:14 PM

i would not a taller fence side …..nor from walnut wood ...just as sg said more stable and slippery with other material ….GOOD LUCK :<))
PS …YOU should post pictures of your WT SAW


I still have some other work to do to the saw before I’m ready to start putting it back together. I have a couple other pieces to paint and want to take the motor to a local motor shop to have them go through the motor to check bearings, gears, and wiring to make sure everything is good for years of use. I also want to have the original badge redone so that it looks good. I went to Fastenal and got all new stainless steel hardware to use. The biesemeyer fence and rails are now painted to match the saw. Here are a few photos of the saw:

I know that it looks just gray in the photo, but it’s actually a blue-gray. You can see in the photo of the internals below of a more accurate sample of the color.



View MrRon's profile


5925 posts in 4049 days

#6 posted 02-10-2018 02:08 AM

Definitely keep it stock. A tall fence, if it is slightly out of square with the table top, will affect the cut when cutting wood with the edge on the table. The original fence face material is baltic birch, 12 mm thick. You have to attach that to the fence before laminating countertop material to it. Use contact cement.

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