Cost of jointer plane

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Forum topic by YouthfullMind posted 02-07-2018 03:07 AM 1036 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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73 posts in 1004 days

02-07-2018 03:07 AM

Topic tags/keywords: jointer plane handplane ebay try foreplane

I was looking to get a few hand planes. In general, I prefer old and used over new. I don’t have any local places to purchase from so I am basically stuck using only eBay. I’m sure my question will be hard to answer because of all the factors, but what is a general price range for a used jointer plane #7 or #8? I am purely looking for something that I can use and works and not worried about the brand or appearance. I am also okay with doing some restoration if that is the only way to get it in my budget.

Also, if anybody is looking to get rid of a jointer plane for not too bad of a price let me know!

Thanks for the help.

12 replies so far

View jonah's profile


2125 posts in 4151 days

#1 posted 02-07-2018 03:29 AM

#8s are generally more expensive than #7s. If you look carefully, you can probably find a restoration job for ~$50-$75 or so, but the prices tend to fluctuate quite a lot. They’re definitely more expensive now than they were 4-5 years ago.

View TheFridge's profile


10861 posts in 2338 days

#2 posted 02-07-2018 05:44 PM

100$ or less

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile


16905 posts in 3470 days

#3 posted 02-07-2018 06:03 PM

I personally don’t see No. 8 jointers going for less than $80-$100, but that’s likely because I’m not in the Northeast US. If it’s in good to fine condition, expect $150 or more.

That’s one reason why many choose (prefer?) 7s.

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. - OldTools Archive -

View Holt's profile


280 posts in 3481 days

#4 posted 02-07-2018 06:05 PM

I just bought a vintage Record No 8 from Patrick sight unseen for $194.00 delivered. Based on everything else I’ve ever bought from him, I expect it to be in excellent condition. While I’ve been looking, I’ve seen Stanley (Bailey style, not Bedrock) No 8’s for around $120 give or take (higher on the evil auction site). Think I saw a Bedrock for about $280. At that price, a new LN at $475 starts looking good…

-- ...Specialization is for insects.

View bbasiaga's profile


1243 posts in 2847 days

#5 posted 02-07-2018 06:16 PM

Check out a couple of the LJs that sell planes. Likely more trustworthy and a better deal than eBay.

The oft referred one is Time Tested Tools, but there are a couple others too.


-- Part of engineering is to know when to put your calculator down and pick up your tools.

View JayT's profile


6412 posts in 3063 days

#6 posted 02-07-2018 07:05 PM

You might also look at a #6. Many people overlook them for the #7 for jointing, but the reality is that a #6 will serve most people just as well. It’s a few inches shorter, yet more than long enough for most furniture work. I use a #6 size because it’s easier to handle and gives just as good of results as a #7. Added bonus is that #6’s generally sell for about half of what a #7 does. If you want a #7 or 8, go for it, just wanted to present another option.

-- - In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.

View corelz125's profile


1534 posts in 1828 days

#7 posted 02-08-2018 01:10 AM

Some like the 7’s better because its a little less weight you have to push around. You can find a tuned 7 for a decent price if your patient. I like the #8s though..

View OSU55's profile


2658 posts in 2842 days

#8 posted 02-08-2018 02:23 AM

I prefer a 7 because the same iron and chip breker fit my 4-1/2’s. Easy to have spares sharpened up and ready to go. 7 is a bit easier to joint with since it is a bit narrower and easier to balance. I’m a big person with plenty of strength and find a #8 can get unweildy at times.

View Don W's profile

Don W

19698 posts in 3420 days

#9 posted 02-10-2018 02:22 PM

you can also try here,

-- - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

View Holt's profile


280 posts in 3481 days

#10 posted 02-11-2018 07:23 PM

After getting my hands on that Record No 8. if you aren’t a big guy, you may want to look for a no 7. I’ve got enough meat on my bones to handle the No 8, but my wife had problems picking it up…

-- ...Specialization is for insects.

View ColonelTravis's profile


1976 posts in 2746 days

#11 posted 02-11-2018 08:35 PM

I use an 8 all the time. I’m not constructed like the incredible Hulk and have never understood why people say – go for the 7, you’ll kill yourself with an 8. I’ve never worn myself out. Scratch that – I have worn myself out with a LA jack and toothed blade, reducing a board to thickness. But a jointer? Never. It’s not a thickness planer. The difference between a 7 and 8 in size and weight is marginal. You’re not lifting it in the air, you’re pushing it. More mass helps you plane through anything.

Seriously – I wish every single plane I owned had more mass. Including my blocks.

Now if you tried a 7 and an 8 over time and said – the 7 just feels better to me, I get that. But it seems to me the 8 is typically written off too fast.

View jcocca's profile


3 posts in 950 days

#12 posted 02-18-2018 05:17 PM

Wow, are you looking to offload any of those 8’s?

Some like the 7 s better because its a little less weight you have to push around. You can find a tuned 7 for a decent price if your patient. I like the #8s though..

- corelz125

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