Segmented Table top - tips needs

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Forum topic by Yettiman posted 03-24-2011 03:36 PM 2654 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Yettiman's profile


163 posts in 4712 days

03-24-2011 03:36 PM

Topic tags/keywords: jig question trick tip joining


Looking to build a circular table toble out of some nice stable oak planking.

I want it to be segmented (pie pieces) and want as much as possible for all of the pieces to be the same angle.

I have tried to cut a few test pieces (our of cheap mdf) but they just do not fit into a perfect circle (Look good until the last piece)

Is there a trick / technique to this? or do I need to just keep shimming my taper jig to I hit the magic sweet spot.

ANY advice, gratefully recieved

Thanks Guys (and Guy-esses)

-- Keep your tools sharp, your mind sharper and the coffee hot

4 replies so far

View bobkberg's profile


440 posts in 4047 days

#1 posted 03-24-2011 09:53 PM

Having built one of those (although out of OSB), the key is to be measuring your angle carefully before cutting anything. I’d recommend that you get a good protractor (Office Supply or Art stores probably have these) and once you’ve decided on the number of pieces you want your table to be, then make a template out of posterboard (same stores).

In my case, the top is made out of 16 pieces (360 / 16 = 22.5 degrees each). Then lay out your template, cut it out using a sharp utility knife, and use that to set your taper jig.

Good luck – let me know if you need more info.

-- Bob - A sideline, not how I earn a living

View levan's profile


472 posts in 3953 days

#2 posted 03-24-2011 11:48 PM

I think you have it just shim till you get it . My concern would be movement after you get it fit. You don’t say how large the top will be. the movement could be significant.

-- "If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right". Henry Ford

View SASmith               's profile


1850 posts in 3961 days

#3 posted 03-25-2011 01:43 AM

If you are pretty close with your angle you could use a technique similar to the one show here:
Instead of using a belt sander you could use the tablesaw. Say your top in 4’ in diameter you could use double sided tape to secure your 1/2 table top (like in the blog above) to a piece of plywood just bigger than 2’x4’. Then put the 4’ edge of the plywood against the fence to cut a straight side on the 1/2 table top. Then just do the other 1/2 and they will come together nicely. Not all segment will be of the same angle now but if it is only a degree or so that needs corrected I think it would look better than the gap.
I hope this helps

-- Scott Smith, Southern Illinois

View reggiek's profile


2240 posts in 4244 days

#4 posted 03-25-2011 02:10 AM

One other recommendation – sneak up on your cuts…..Whatever method you use to come up with the angles (I use the same method as Bob – to come up with the angles to cut)......Once you have cut the pieces to rough form….dry fit and then pull out the plane (depending on how the wood is aligned grain wise would determine which plane to use (I have seen a guy use a cabinet scraper to do this also). You can either line of sight or just smooth both ends until you do not see any voids between the joint line.

A great tip I got from my grandfather for this was to use some chalk or pencil on one of the edges….then put the two pieces together and rub them together slightly so that the pencil or chalk gets rubbed onto the other board….If you get a solid line then the fit should be good…if not then the colored areas will be the high spots…..sand or plane the board untill the edge is clear and you should get an excellent fit.

-- Woodworking.....My small slice of heaven!

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