G0593 2007 8" jointer cast iron break. Please help

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Forum topic by Will Merrit posted 12-28-2017 12:59 AM 4645 views 0 times favorited 21 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Will Merrit

89 posts in 2356 days

12-28-2017 12:59 AM

I had a great Christmas and hope you all did too. I have been looking to get a new planer all I had was a DeWalt lunchbox. So I found one on Craigslist 2 he’s from home. He wanted 800 for it, 15” grizzly barely used so I took off. When I walked in his shop there sat a griz 8” jointer with helical head. I asked if he was selling. He said he dropped it off fork lift and it broke the metal post for the on/off switch and broke some cast iron. I looked it over and asked what he wanted for it and he said $250. He had used it once before dropping it then no more. I bought it knowing it was a gamble.

Below are the pics of the cracks they are on the infeed side. On the user side it took a chunk out where 2 of the give are supposed to be. On the dove tail of the infeed side (back) the dovetail is cracked and about to pop off

My thoughts are to expoxy and clamp the dovetail way back on, will that work?

Then for the chunk missing I have no ideas.

21 replies so far

View William Shelley's profile

William Shelley

610 posts in 2932 days

#1 posted 12-28-2017 06:27 AM

An experienced welder can repair cast iron using a nickel stick welding electrode (or nickel MIG wire), but that’s an expensive repair and because of the location, it will require re-machining after the fact.

Welding cast iron typically requires preheating the workpiece to about 900F, which could take hours for a piece as large as that base. So it will need a new coat of paint after that.

Honestly I think that unless it “works” without that missing piece, you’ve bought yourself a boat anchor.

-- Woodworking from an engineer's perspective

View TheFridge's profile


10863 posts in 2949 days

#2 posted 12-28-2017 06:44 AM

It’s worth 250 for the head already me if undamaged.

I’d try brazing or soldering a spot on each end a shot.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View Clarkie's profile


526 posts in 3304 days

#3 posted 12-28-2017 11:08 AM

Hello Will, contact Grizzly and see about a replacement table. The danger with this one may not be fully noticeable, ie, cracks underneath the table. You don’t want to gamble running a board across and having the head release or a table crack under strain. Count your fingers and see if they add up to a lesson learned by buying something that was damaged.

View WAPY's profile


56 posts in 1789 days

#4 posted 12-28-2017 01:19 PM

right, well said Clarkie, and in any case welding cast iron is definitely almost impossible, even with pre-heating, and any other means you could use will reveal unreliable. better the “anchor solution”, beleive me…

-- the good woodworker feels what the tree wanted to become

View dbray45's profile


3448 posts in 4239 days

#5 posted 12-28-2017 02:35 PM

If you ask me, buy a new one of the same model. You have some valuable spare parts there.

-- David in Palm Bay, FL

View avsmusic1's profile


682 posts in 2148 days

#6 posted 12-28-2017 02:40 PM

I am no help on welding advice but I probably would have considered buying it for parts too. Worst case is you try and snag another Craigslist grizzly that the head is compatible with. I assume the motor is fine too?

View jonah's profile


2283 posts in 4761 days

#7 posted 12-28-2017 02:40 PM

There’s no realistic way you’ll be able to repair the crack and have it function properly afterward. It would take a good amount of machining even if you could find someone to braze/weld it (I’ve never personally seen or heard of anyone welding cast iron).

If you can’t get a replacement table/base (which I consider unlikely to happen for any reasonable cost), I’d probably try to part it out and recover your $250 by selling the motor and cutterhead.

View TheFridge's profile


10863 posts in 2949 days

#8 posted 12-28-2017 06:32 PM

If you don’t try then you will never know. I think the safety aspect is a little overrated. The casting isn’t just going to randomly shear itself in half without any sign whatsoever.

Hell. I’d consider countersinking some screws or bolt to hold the parts together.

Even so, the head, starter, motor, pulleys and belts are worth the price of admission.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View Loren's profile


11510 posts in 5111 days

#9 posted 12-28-2017 06:44 PM

It seems to me you should be able to buy
a new base casting from Grizzly.

Personally I would put the table on and see
if it works right without the repair. From there
I’d assess what type of repair to go with. To
have it welded or perhaps brazed may introduce
other problems. If it can be made to function
with a cruder, bolt-on repair that involves no
heat that might be better. Perhaps epoxy
combined with a steel plate on the outside
at tapping the parts would do.

View HorizontalMike's profile


7935 posts in 4377 days

#10 posted 12-28-2017 08:08 PM

It looks like you lost the upper table Gibs. See page 33 of your G0593 owners manual, or do a google search for it. The table gibs help eliminate excessive play in the table. Unfortunately there are no gibs on the back side. I might suggest drilling and tapping one or two on the backside, but lower than opposite the break.

To me, it looks like the gibs had/were over-tightened at some time, to the point of breaking off the section that you have. The backside looks accessible, creating a couple of gibs on the backside looks possible. Just my 2-cents.

Update—You can probably get the set screws ans nuts from Grizzly. Parts:
  • 51-5 Part #PSS01 – Set Screw 5/16-18×1
  • 51-6 Part #PN02 – Hex Nut 5/16-18

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View AZWoody's profile


1478 posts in 2687 days

#11 posted 12-28-2017 08:16 PM

Welding cast iron can be done. It’s not ideal but as a farmer who has to make repairs on equipment often, it has had to be done many times.

The problem with cast is, that the heat can cause it to warp. So, even if it’s welded, there would be more work to make sure that it’s aligned correctly.

As Loren said, price a base. Girzzly has a very large stock of parts for old equipment. As long as the motor is good and the head is in good condition, the $250 is definitely worth it for just those 2.

Btw, congratulations on the new to you planer.

View MrUnix's profile


9003 posts in 3662 days

#12 posted 12-28-2017 08:20 PM

It seems to me you should be able to buy
a new base casting from Grizzly.
- Loren

Unfortunately, most of the jointers of that design have their tables ground while installed on the base, so swapping them out usually requires a regrind to bring them back into being planer. I’d just go ahead and try to salvage is. I doubt epoxy would be sufficient, but it certainly won’t hurt anything to try. Welding/brazing is another option, but given the location of the crack, additional machining would be needed to remove the weld where the table rides in the ways. I like the idea given by the Fridge, countersinking some screws – cast iron drills and threads pretty easily. Heck, I’ve even welded cast iron with my Mig welder and standard ER70S wire:


-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View RDan's profile


218 posts in 3787 days

#13 posted 12-29-2017 03:49 AM

Just the Helical head is worth $425 worth a shot at finding a comparable 8 inch with a regular cutting head. Dan

View TheFridge's profile


10863 posts in 2949 days

#14 posted 12-29-2017 04:00 AM

What Loren said. If the opposite side isn’t damaged just throw it together and see.

I probably do what mike said as well and drill and tap some new gib screws as well.

I think the probability of it working like that is pretty high since the ways are engaged in the back side and not the front. The gib just applies pressure to keep the backside locked in.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View Will Merrit's profile

Will Merrit

89 posts in 2356 days

#15 posted 12-29-2017 07:27 AM

Guys thanks a ton. Just today I followed much of the advice on here. I first broke off the cracked piece then ground it back to where it fits then JB welded it back on. Once it’s fully cured I will file back into alignment. Then I drilled and tapped two new gib holes for the back. I am optimistic. I do not ever buy new machinery and am used to jerry-riggin stuff to make it work proper, so I am not a total greenhorn. But if it works out and I think it will, I will have gotten the 15” griz and the 8” Griz jointer for $1050.00 which is a great deal to a person like myself.

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