Any thoughts on this idea or has it already been done?

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Forum topic by Dave Cox posted 12-11-2017 07:43 PM 1398 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Dave Cox

3 posts in 945 days

12-11-2017 07:43 PM

I am about to do some solid wood edge banding but do not have many clamps, so I thought of making my own setup.

Cut two 2” x 3/4” x 36” boards and screw screws in 1” increments along the length of both. Now clamp these on opposite sides of the work piece so it is sandwiched between both jigs (using just two c-clamps on the ends of the jigs). Now all I have to do is stretch heavy duty rubber bands up and over the workpiece and hook them on the screws holding the edge banding tight to the workpiece.

Has anyone done this and would it work?

6 replies so far

View jerkylips's profile


495 posts in 3341 days

#1 posted 12-11-2017 07:47 PM

I can’t speak to your idea specifically, but I had a project a year or so ago & needed more clamps than I had – got quite a few at harbor freight really cheap – like 3-4 dollars each.

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 4418 days

#2 posted 12-11-2017 07:49 PM

Guitar binding is sometimes glued by wrapping
rubber inner tube strips many times around
the body. It’s takes some time but a guitar
is worth it.

View Kazooman's profile


1489 posts in 2723 days

#3 posted 12-11-2017 08:26 PM

I use rubber bands as clamps on small items all the time. They work great.

View JBrow's profile


1368 posts in 1691 days

#4 posted 12-12-2017 03:19 AM

Dave Cox,

I have not done what you are proposing. Your method may or may not apply sufficient pressure to bring the edge banding against what I assume is plywood to leave a nearly invisible glue seam. I will hereafter refer to the material to which the edge banding is applied as plywood. I suspect that this method may apply more pressure on the top face (where the heavy duty rubber bands are placed) than on the opposite face, even with the C clamps on the ends. The force could be better equalized by installing every other screw on the opposite side of the 2” x 36” cauls. But even with this, less than perfectly mated plywood/edge banding could result in a wider glue seam in the center than at the ends (where C clamps are applied). My conclusion is that your clamping may work but I am not sure it will yield the tightest glue seam.

Some alternative options are:

1) Use a C clamp to pull the edge banding tight to the plywood at one end. Then apply masking tape tightly across the edge banding on each side of the C clamp. Move the C clamp a few inches away and re-clamp and apply masking tape. This process would continue down the length of the work piece.

2) Make a curved caul. Assuming the work piece is 36” long, the curve caul would be at least 36” long or even a few inches longer x 2” wide. The caul would begin as a rectangle ¾” thick (the thickness of the edge banding). Draw a smooth curve on the face of the rectangular caul so that the width of the caul at the ends of the caul is ¼” less than the width of the caul at the center. The curve can then be cut into the caul at the bandsaw or with a jigsaw. The curve edge is the smoothed with some scraping or sanding. Once the curved caul is made, it can be positioned so that the top of the crown is at the center (along the length of the edge banding). C clamps are the applied to the ends of the curved caul until the curved caul is snug against the edge banding along the length of the edge banding.

3) Make a clamping jig which consists of a flat base on which the plywood and edge banding would lie flat. A straight edge perhaps 1-1/2” wide is secured to one long edge of the flat base. This straight edge would be thickness (height) of the edge banding. On the opposite long edge of the flat base a second straight edge would be firmly screwed in place. The distance between the inside edges of the these two straight edges attached on opposites edges of the flat base would allow the plywood and edge banding to set between the two straight edges while leaving a gap of about 1/8”. Then tapered shims, either cut from scrap in the shop or purchased at the home center, would be driven into the 1/8” gap to draw the edge banding tight to the plywood. The wedges would be driven between the plywood and the second straight edge to prevent damaging the edge banding. A dead blow mallet may be required to keep the plywood and edge banding flat against the base once the wedges are driven tight. It is CRICTICAL to apply SEVERAL coats of furniture past wax to the based especially where glue will squeeze out. Otherwise the workpiece could become glued to the flat base.

View Rayne's profile


1312 posts in 2310 days

#5 posted 12-12-2017 03:26 AM

All I can think of are the Rockler Bandy clamps and Peachtree USA’s Flex-A-Band. But I would you’re just looking into making some.

Rockler Bandy Clamps


View Lazyman's profile


5389 posts in 2158 days

#6 posted 12-12-2017 05:34 AM

If I understand what you are thinking, I think it is going to be difficult to keep everything from slipping around. I usually use a pin nailer to hold everything in place while the glue dries. It leaves nearly invisible holes and adds a little mechanical support as well.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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