A head scratcher (Rotted Footer)

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Forum topic by Blackie_ posted 11-21-2017 08:37 PM 852 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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4883 posts in 3120 days

11-21-2017 08:37 PM

Shame on me for not addressing this sooner, This is the only door on my shop that I enter through and you’d thunk I would have noticed it sooner, so now I’m left with scratching my head on how to tackle this?

This 2×6 x 12 has all the way through rot on the top 3 inches prob around 6 to 7 feet of it’s length, I already have the replacement 2×6 now just trying to find out how to lift the weight off it to replace it. it’s a load bearing footer and has floor joist tied to it. I have two bottle jacks that I will prob have to place caddie corner with supports on the under floor joist.

What was going on over the years, I never had the door protected from the wet weather thus rain would come in under the door and puddle up against the wall, the door jam was of no help it was a cheap purchase. little did I know what was going on. Once I get the footer replaced I plan on building a wide 5’ awning to keep the water away from the door and out of the building, putting down a newer better floor jam and also adding a door sweep.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at

6 replies so far

View nakmuay's profile


82 posts in 1961 days

#1 posted 11-21-2017 09:35 PM

DISCLAMER….. I’m not a builder, and this was a redneck fix in the woods, proceed at your own risk!

I had the same thing on a bunkie that came with my new cabin. Buddy before me had pushed a cement step up to the joist and rotted out below the 14ft footer below the door. I first I emptied the building. I used another 2×6x14 a couple of ft further back and attached it using cheap deck hurricane ties.
I managed to attach about 4 each side using deck screws. It was a bit of a pain getting it straight and some of my joists went level so I knocked in some shims under the joist that were abit higher so that all joists was supported by the 2×6. After that I got an old 6×6 and crosscut it into 4 pieces so that they were about 4inches higher than the joists that were attached to the cross member with the hurricane brackets. I I only had one bottle jack so I lifted one side, slid in 2 6×6s on ones side. Jacked the other side, slid in the other 6×6s.
After that I used a back plate on my circular saw to set my cut depth and screwed a baton above the cut to keep it straight. I choped through my OSB siding and ripped the beam out with a crowbar.
I had a a little bit of sag, maybe 1/4 inch in the middle but nothing noticeable.
Unfortunately I only really got pictures halfway through but if you go that way and need any advice please let me know.

View DocSavage45's profile


8882 posts in 3450 days

#2 posted 11-22-2017 12:10 AM


Use the bottle jacks with slabs of 2x scrap if you have it or more of whatever you use to support the floor. slowly inch up the floor and then set the floor on the scabbed in support. Do this along the length of the floor joist until it is free from a load then cut it out with reciprocating saw preferably with a metal cutting blade for scabbed in nails.

Hurricane clips are good for roofs but your home box store will have any number of galvanized connectors to screw in for added structural support.

Consider metal flashing anywhere you might have water dripping over a long period of time. Home owner builders often forget this step under the threshold of decks etc. and that’s where it rots out.

Hope this makes sense.

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

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4883 posts in 3120 days

#3 posted 11-22-2017 01:09 AM

Thanks for the tips, yes Tom I catch what you’re saying along with Nakmuy. Thanks

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at

View Boxguy's profile


2864 posts in 2875 days

#4 posted 11-22-2017 05:50 AM

Blackie, Use treated wood. Drip edge like you use for a roof and a strip of metal for on top of the drip might be a big help. The drip edge is cheap and easy to install. Put these on the treated 2×6 before you install it. They are a pain to attach, but a self sealing rubber membrane would fit nicely on top of the drip edge and or the metal strip and would keep water from wicking back under the board.

-- Big Al in IN

View Sodabowski's profile


2388 posts in 3440 days

#5 posted 11-22-2017 10:39 AM

More spalted wood for you buddy
Well, sorta ;)

-- Thomas - there are no problems, there are only solutions.

View Blackie_'s profile


4883 posts in 3120 days

#6 posted 11-22-2017 11:19 AM

Yes thanks Alan, I was actually thinking on those same lines, I had in my head to buy a roll of flashing Not sure how small the rolls come but I’m thinking 8” to 10” in width then draping it over the 2×6 covering both inner and outer sides of the 2×6, I can beat it into submission so that it wraps the whole board before I install it and just tie the joist to the wrapped board.

Thomas, you are very welcome to it, I have plenty. :)

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at

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