How to make curly maple pop?

Linseed and tung oil finishes have an incredible depth. I’d test out something
like Watco natural (it’s a “wipe on” varnish with a lot of linseed oil in it) and
see if you like the way it looks. You can lay on a lot of coats of it, and it builds
and dries faster than linseed oil. Anything with stain it it will probably work
against you in getting the effect you want.

After oil finish you can put a transparent finish over that for more protection.
Oil looks really cool but you have to make sure you get enough coats on so
it doesn’t end up looking “thirsty”.

Finishes that have an amber color, like shellac and spar varnish, tend to “pop”
the grain better than the colorless finishes in my opinion.

In addition to Loren’s suggestion, and hes absolutely right, aniline dyes followed by an oil finish will make the fighur jump right out and grab you.

Steve

-- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her.

I bet you’re looking at some aniline dye pieces. Aniline dyed tiger maple is hard to forget.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

I like Tung Oil for a small project, it just makes figured maple sparkle! I think it may be too much work for a piece of furniture. In that case, dye BLO and Garnet Shellac!

-- Matt Garcia Wannabe Period Furniture Maker, Houston TX

I’ve just finished a curly maple/bloodwood box. (My first Incra double-dovetail project). I used several coats of blonde shellac, and the figure on the maple is just spectacular.

-- Gene T

I’m with Matt Garcia;
a little dye, a little drying oil(I too use real tung oil) and a nice top finish of shellac or oil-based varnish.

BTW: Watco Danish Oil is 75% solvent. The remaining 25% (the active ingredients) is a blend of linseed oil, soya oil, resin and a little colorant (like, Gilsonite). It is a highly diluted oil/resin blend, not a wiping varnish. That doesn’t mean that it can’t look good when used properly.

-- 温故知新

View this video.

-- I don't make mistakes, only design changes....www.dgmwoodworks.com

closetguy got this is what method I use and it’s great cuz the more you add the better it is like the vid sayes.

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop, http://[email protected]

I’m VERY interested in knowing how you think using that Wood Whisperer’s method on that vid will affect the walnut, as I am actually making some VERY small projects w/ tiger maple and walnut. Would this darken the walnut too much, or will the shellac just stay in the pores after sanding? Thanks!

Not too long ago I read one of Charles Neil’s replies to a similar question right here @ Lumberjocks. He said one could use the Seal-A-Cell which would do a similar thing to amber (“blond”) shellac or boiled linseed oil to “pop the grain”.... so first BLO and then some clear topcoat, or Seal-a-cell then a topcoat? What would the main differences be?

Thanks!

the seal a cell dries well, and has some light ambering to it,( warming), BLO just takes so long to dry, if you really want to pop it, do the seal a cell, then a coat of blond shelllac…or seal coat, let the seal a cell dry over night.. and it will explode ,, then top coat as you wish,

I have used, with great success a blend of tung oil, urethane, and naptha in thin wipe on coats…it makes you expect to “feel the waves”.

-- Skip from Batavia, purveyor of fine and exotic sawdust & chips.

yeah, I was wondering if using a tine to enhance the grain would also kill a bit of its iridescence. You know how it changes color depending on light reflection? I was wondering if doing the shellac/transtint method (I already have their golden brown and red mahogany lying around) would make the curl obvious, but kill its iridescence.

Yes, “feel the waves” is a great to put it.

Charles, thanks for dropping by.

I mean “tint”, not “tine”, but I think I’m going to go straight General Finishes Seal then Arm on the whole thing… cheers…

Gents, thanks for the great info. I have tried what Charles Neil suggest in post #10 and it pops nicely. I just need to get the wood just a tad darker. Can Transtint be added to Seal-A-Cell or should I just mix it with alcohol then add a few coats of Seal-A-Coat?

Gents, thanks for the great info. I have tried what Charles Neil suggest in post #10 and it pops nicely. I just need to get the wood just a tad darker. Can Transtint be added to Seal-A-Cell or should I just mix it with alcohol then add a few coats of Seal-A-Coat?