Inheriting this 1950s Yates American M-1701 table saw and wondering if anyone has any clue if I'd be able to upgrade the fence to something more modern/reliable/accurate. I haven't found much on these saws other than on the Vintage Machinery site, so I'm looking for input. Thanks in advance
A lot of fence rails would interfere with the
function of the jointer. I'm not saying you couldn't
install an aftermarket fence, but you would
either have to cut the rails off short, give
up on using the jointer or install the rails so
they stick way out to the right.
You could make a custom fence out of wood or
80/20 extrusion.
You might want to consider selling the unit as
is to a collector and buying something with a more
modern fence.
Check with Super Awesome Very Cool Tools…
Sorry, their name has always bugged me but they do all kinds of aftermarket fences that are somewhat diy and parts.
They might have something that will work for you.
Very cool saw. Yates made some very good machinery back in the day.
I have one, and I like it. I replaced the arbor and fence bearing (easy to find and replace), and had the motor serviced. It runs beautifully. The jointer table was too warped to use it, and so I removed it and the sander and replaced them with a torsion box wing. I'm going to make a router table to sit between the right side wings (they're not handles!)
The fence is unusual but will work just fine when it's set up properly. Also, it's very easy to remove it for cutting large stock. The fence should ride smoothly on the four sealed bearings upon the inclined edges of the tabletop.
1. Snug up the knurled handknob, and then check that the fence is vertical to the table. There are two screws in the front of the clamp under the handknob that hold the vertical setting.
2. Place a 3/4" bar in the miter slot - I used an aluminum extrusion - and then loosen hand knob and the four socket screws on the top of the fence, and clamp the fence to the bar.
3. Push the rear clamp up snug and tighten the socket screws.
4. Place a business card (or dollar bill) between the front clamp and edge of the table where the clamp meets the edge. The card will provide the necessary clearance for moving the fence after the handknob is loosened.
5. Push the front clamp up and tighten the socket screws.
6. Lift off the fence off, and remove the card or bill, and then put the fence on again. Test that the handknob draws the fence tight.
To move the fence, loosen the handknob and push down the center of the fence and move it with that hand. - > avoid dragging the fence by the clamping handknob because this can dealign it. Also, check for squareness if you drop it on floor.< You can spot-check for squareness with an orange plastic builders triangle square - they're usually accurate if they're not beat up.
Oh, there is a peculiar feature about this saw - the miter slots are 5/16" deep, not 3/8". For a sled, I plow a 3/4" W x 1/8" deep slot to seat the T-tracks. If you want, you can precision milled 5/16" x 3/4" x 18" bar stock (cat. # 0702-0715) at Wttool.com for $25 to make your own miter bars.
A good blade for this saw is a Freud 8-1/4" sliding mitersaw blade, a TK604 or TK904.
What're the shortcomings of the fence that you feel the only option is to replace it? No means of cleaning it up and getting it precise again or upgrading some of the components to improve it?
I think you're gonna have better luck doing that than you would trying to put an aftermarket fence on it with that cast rail. That's a pretty big obstacle to get around and still be precise.
A pic for you. Also, I put spring washers behind the lock knobs on the height & bevel handwheels, but I'll confess that I usually don't cinch them down because the saw has very little backlash and it holds the settings. BTW, it's important to ensure that the Wixey DRO rail is parallel to the top surface.
If the fence can be gotten aligned parallel to the blade and slots easily enough, my inclination would be to build an "over-fence" - something that can be attached securely to the original fence to make it prettier, a bit taller, and adaptable to other goodies like sac fences, hold-downs, workpiece guides like Jess-em makes, etc. It's common practice to add such covers to inadequate fences or ones with special requirements; I don't see why it couldn't be a nice solution for you.
Here's a decent video by Bob Van ******************** that might get you started with some ideas:
If the fence can be gotten aligned parallel to the blade and slots easily enough, my inclination would be to build an "over-fence" - something that can be attached securely to the original fence to make it prettier, a bit taller, and adaptable to other goodies like sac fences, hold-downs, workpiece guides like Jess-em makes, etc. It s common practice to add such covers to inadequate fences or ones with special requirements; I don t see why it couldn t be a nice solution for you.
Here s a decent video by Bob Van ******************** that might get you started with some ideas:
One more point about the fence - it is pre-drilled for three 3/16" bolts for mounting sacrificial fences on either side of the metal fence.
Overall Impression:
These saws were well-designed and made from quality materials - there's not a scrap of plastic anywhere. They were assembled by human hands and made to be serviced and repaired by human hands - you won't break anything by taking it apart, and there are no exotic parts in it. I even replaced the arbor bearings without a press. I cooled the new bearings in dry ice to shrink them, and warmed the casting with a heatgun to expand it - the bearings slipped right in with fingers.
The top was carefully machined, the motors are TEC with a castiron casings and machined pulleys, and are conservatively rated powerwise. The elevation and tilt mechanisms have acme threaded screws passing through phosphor bronze pivots, and there is very little backlash such that it's not usually necessary to lock down the handwheels. Although it has an 8" blade (and less expensive than a 10"), the max depths of cut are 2-3/8" @ 90d, and 1-5/8" @45. The arbor shaft is a true 5/8" diameter, and it can accomodate a 7-1/4" blade that will still cut 2" @90d and 1-1/4" at 45d.
So if the OP decided to pass the saw on, I hope that he gave it to a friend. With a little TLC, this is an excellent compact saw for a basement shop. It will certainly outlast me.
P.S. If you take the saw apart to service it, I recommend painting the inside of the cabinet and top with white or yellow paint - that will make it much easier to see inside for adjustments or cleanings.
Sorry I can't offer any suggestions but if you go with a new fence would you consider selling your old one? I just had my Yates American saw moved from PA to WI and the movers lost the rip fence and the planer fence!
Make them search, and then pay. You might also contact the people who moved into your previous home - they might have found it, and by some miracle, have kept it around.
In the meantime, when I get downstairs, I'll see if I can make some measurements. The fence is not complex, or you may be able to fit an aftermarket fence to it.
Sorry I can t offer any suggestions but if you go with a new fence would you consider selling your old one? I just had my Yates American saw moved from PA to WI and the movers lost the rip fence and the planer fence!
I am restoring a saw like this and have most everything. I am needing a blade guard. If anyone can help I would sure appreciate it. Also there is a 2nd fence for the joiner which I have on mine. I think I saw one of these on ebay a few months back. This fence tilts like present day joiner fences.
I am restoring a saw like this and have most everything. I am needing a blade guard. If anyone can help I would sure appreciate it. Also there is a 2nd fence for the joiner which I have on mine. I think I saw one of these on ebay a few months back. This fence tilts like present day joiner fences.
Blade guards were an additional cost option for this saw, so I think it would be extremely difficult to find one. That said, they looked like they were well-designed, and I've thought about fabricating one like it. Another option would be to buy an aftermarket guard, or make one that is attached to the fence such as this: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/178994
I know it will be difficult to find one but I will keep looking for one. Maybe someone like you will hear about one and let me know. I need something because I'm getting on up in years. I am only interested in box making and this is a perfect saw for that. I did notice after I posted the last message that the gentleman that started this thread has a joiner guard hanging on his saw. Thats good because that also is a rare part. I find that the fence for the saw is well designed and fully adjustable with ball bearings for easy movement. Thank you Bob for your response. David
I have this saw - given to my by my father-in-law when he could no longer use it. It is in very good shape, but the bit about the miter slots is true and they are weird. But all of that said, I get some good cuts from the was but man is it ever a dangerous saw. Every time I turn it on, the hairs on the back of my neck stand up because it has no guard.
Oh, there is a peculiar feature about this saw - the miter slots are 5/16" deep, not 3/8". For a sled, I plow a 3/4" W x 1/8" deep slot to seat the T-tracks. If you want, you can precision milled 5/16" x 3/4" x 18" bar stock (cat. # 0702-0715) at Wttool.com for $25 to make your own miter bars.
A good blade for this saw is a Freud 8-1/4" sliding mitersaw blade, a TK604 or TK904.
Can anyone tell me the size of the belt for the joiner? I had to have the motor rebuilt some years ago and in the process, I misplaced the belt. Any help is very much appreciated. Oh, and any tips on sharpening the blades for the joiner are also appreciated.
I was going to delete this post because I found the user manual someone had posted. I cannot remember their name but I really appreciate this. Thank you.
I'll have a look-see. I removed the jointer because the bed was warped beyond my ability to shim it, but I have the parts packed away. I made an extension wing to replace it, since I already have a jointer.
Can anyone tell me the size of the belt for the joiner? I had to have the motor rebuilt some years ago and in the process, I misplaced the belt. Any help is very much appreciated. Oh, and any tips on sharpening the blades for the joiner are also appreciated.
I was going to delete this post because I found the user manual someone had posted. I cannot remember their name but I really appreciate this. Thank you.
Guards were an optional item in those days. A full cover is good, but a splitter (riving knife) is more important. I came up with a solution, and I'll try to find (or take) some pictures of how I did it. Also, the L-fence that I posted above helps in many cuts, but there is no splitter.
I have this saw - given to my by my father-in-law when he could no longer use it. It is in very good shape, but the bit about the miter slots is true and they are weird. But all of that said, I get some good cuts from the was but man is it ever a dangerous saw. Every time I turn it on, the hairs on the back of my neck stand up because it has no guard.
Oh, there is a peculiar feature about this saw - the miter slots are 5/16" deep, not 3/8". For a sled, I plow a 3/4" W x 1/8" deep slot to seat the T-tracks. If you want, you can precision milled 5/16" x 3/4" x 18" bar stock (cat. # 0702-0715) at Wttool.com for $25 to make your own miter bars.
A good blade for this saw is a Freud 8-1/4" sliding mitersaw blade, a TK604 or TK904.
Okay, I need help. I am trying to put a new belt on the jointer for my M1701, and the saw + gravity is resisting. Any ideas how this should be done so that a 71 year old man doesn't become a 72 year old man before he's finished?
Okay, I need help. I am trying to put a new belt on the jointer for my M1701, and the saw + gravity is resisting. Any ideas how this should be done so that a 71 year old man doesn t become a 72 year old man before he s finished?
Yes indeedly that's a hefty TEC cast iron-cased motor! Let me look at mine so that I can remember how I lifted it with a stick or two and some nylon webbing. btw, did you solve the fence problem? I've been thinking about that too.
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