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Forum topic by 000 posted 10-08-2017 03:35 PM 1634 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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2859 posts in 1755 days

10-08-2017 03:35 PM


9 replies so far

View Desert_Woodworker's profile


3424 posts in 2071 days

#1 posted 10-08-2017 04:56 PM

My first thought is that it is not “marketed” to woodworker i.e. You don’t see Charles Neil using it.
In the past, I have used automotive finishes (colored lacquer) Today I use water borne finishes. Here are some pro’s and con’s, from the net.

“Pros of Using Urethane Car Paint
As a general guideline, if you wish to repaint an already painted surface, you will have to make sure that the new paint you use doesn’t react with the earlier paint. Urethane paint can be sprayed over most paints, including lacquer. However, most pros will tell you that lacquer shouldn’t be sprayed over urethane paint. Since lacquer paints are more expensive than urethane paints, consider getting your car painted with urethane paints. Urethane is also better than enamel paint, since it provides a good finish and doesn’t run lines. Apart from this, urethane paint dries off quickly; it’s resistant to chipping and doesn’t fade easily. If the car exteriors are maintained well, urethane car paints will last for more than 10 years.
Cons of Using Urethane Car Paint
Urethane paints are more expensive than acrylic paints. Although they do last long and provide a good finish, they give a plastic-like appearance to the car. If you’re a beginner working on a car paint job, urethane paints may be difficult to work with. Since urethane paints are toxic in nature, only painters that have the adequate protective gear should handle such paints. Eye goggles, an air respirator mask with an air pump and a painter’s suit are essential. This gear is also expensive. You should thus consider getting the painting done by a professional mechanic if you intend to use urethane car paints. Although urethane paints are considered superior in quality when compared to enamels, they don’t flow out as easily as enamel paints from the spray gun.

I like that it can be used with a $10 purple Harbor Freight gun
HVLP Gun: Fluid Tip 1.3-1.5 mm Inlet Spray Pressure 25-30 psi
Conventional Gravity: Fluid Tip 1.3-1.6 mm Inlet Spray Pressure 45-50 psi
Conventional Siphon: Fluid Tip: 1.4-1.8 mm Inlet Spray Pressure 45-50 psi

Personally, I don’t like two part process’ I use water borne- Single pour, thin, spray and easy clean up.
Good information………….

-- Desert_Woodworker

View 000's profile


2859 posts in 1755 days

#2 posted 10-08-2017 06:19 PM

Thanks Desert,
I’m more concerned with how the finish works with wood movement, and how brittle it may be.

I didn’t think about the sheen looking plasticky, that’s a good point.

View GR8HUNTER's profile (online now)


7815 posts in 1569 days

#3 posted 10-08-2017 08:07 PM

Charles Neil is your man he use to work auto body :<))

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

View Woodknack's profile


13475 posts in 3236 days

#4 posted 10-08-2017 08:38 PM

Probably because most of us are hobbyists talking to other hobbyists. Metal expands and contracts quite a bit, and rapidly, in summer heat so I suspect automotive lacquer is more than up to the task of wood movement.

-- Rick M,

View Andybb's profile


2839 posts in 1460 days

#5 posted 10-08-2017 10:37 PM

My neighbor who is a commercial/professional wood refinisher uses auto products on some doors and kitchen cabinets and they look awesome. He did his front door and his own kitchen cabinets and they looked incredible. He used a twin turbine HVLP. He didn’t do any tables that I know of.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Desert_Woodworker's profile


3424 posts in 2071 days

#6 posted 10-09-2017 12:34 AM

Jbay and others- recently I did a 9 month test, to test various finishes, for UV protection, on Padouk, exposed under a porch, in Arizona, with a south-west exposure.
Here is what I got from my experiment on 3 samples:
I used a popular HD water based brand, General Finishes Oil- Urethane and an acrylic urethane, 2 parts; and here are my findings:
HD type brand of water based products with UV protection- started to fail in 3 months, with discoloration.
General Finish oil-urethane and the acrylic 2 part system held up with hardly any discoloration. General Finishes won with the least or hardly any discoloration.
General’s kept the beauty of the grain, was easy to apply- Winner
The 2 part, acrylic urethane was a close second.
The application process was a pain in the ass, to measure and mix and need I say clean up.
Conclusion: General Finish for durability and protection- Winner.
The acrylic gave the wood an encapsulated look; similar to a bar counter.
Ps. Charles Neil had an extremely bad failure with some chairs, that were coated with the acrylic… I hope that he “pipes” in.
Best to all of us

-- Desert_Woodworker

View CharlesNeil's profile


2501 posts in 4727 days

#7 posted 10-09-2017 12:35 PM

Automotive finishes do well on wood , however there are several issues, . The first for me is safety .. using the 2k urethane clears , which are a 2 part system , not sure i would want to spray around my home. They require very good protection. We have full automotive down draft spray booths and full haz-mat air supplied respirators and clothing.
2nd issue is the sheen, unless you want a super high gloss.. which most don’t. If you do ,you have to have a glass smooth surface.
Rubbing these finishes to a satin is very very difficult , they are super tough.. and dont rub easily .
Desert… the chair issue I had was with System Three Spar Urethane varnish, not acrylic.

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

12244 posts in 4285 days

#8 posted 10-09-2017 12:51 PM

Used black urathane automotive paint on a baby grand piano we refinished about 30 years ago. It was a royal PITA to clean up between coats. But, it was a beautiful job when it left the shop.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View 000's profile


2859 posts in 1755 days

#9 posted 10-09-2017 07:49 PM

I’ve seen aerosol cans, online, that might be good for smaller projects,
as Charles says, if you want gloss.

I did a kitchen in the early 90’s. Durability was great.
The only thing I noticed was that if you banged the corner is was prone to chipping.
This is the only pic I could find, before it was finished.

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