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Forum topic by BearcraftedCed posted 10-04-2017 06:09 PM 1164 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View BearcraftedCed's profile


7 posts in 1044 days

10-04-2017 06:09 PM

Topic tags/keywords: track saw milwaukee monstertrack

Hey all,

I have gotten it in my mind to try and build an enormous track saw – I deal with a lot of thick slabs being able to cut them with the precision and accuracy of any of the nice track saws would be fantastic. Obviously, this means a lot of cutting depth, enough to cut a 2.5” slab in one pass at 45 degrees.

At the heart of this project is this giant Milwaukee saw:

I intend to put a finish blade on it and mess around with adding dust collection, but that is it. The only thing that holds me up is the pivot point. Does anyone know where the point of rotation is located? On the Festool TS 75, you can set it to cut at any angle and it will still manage to cut right on the line, without the need to make a track for each angle.

Is this accomplished by the extreme thin-ness of the track itself? The low “stack height” , if you will? Or is there some other special piece of engineering within the saw that makes this possible.



12 replies so far

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 4457 days

#1 posted 10-04-2017 06:24 PM

I haven’t thought about it before, but I think
it’s the thin Festool track that lets it pivot
and still cut on the same line.

If you were to use an EZ-Smart track with your
saw, the track is designed so you cut 90
degrees on one side of the track and flip
it around to cut at 45 degrees. It has a
rubber strip on both edges to control tearout.
The track is about 1/2” thick and the base
adds another 1/4”. I think raising the pivot
point by that amount shifts the cut line.

View John_'s profile


251 posts in 2515 days

#2 posted 10-05-2017 07:30 PM

I think it ’s called “German Engineering” :)

The Festool Tracksaw is one of the tools that I think is actually worth the money… (or it was when they first came out – nowadays I think I would buy Makita)

Here is what my Festool saw looks like at 90

Here it is at 45:

I never gave it much though and without taking the saw apart, it looks like the ‘base’ portion actually rotates using two semi-circular ‘guides’ instead of a simple ‘pin’ that most circular saws use:

Festool does make a “Sword Saw”. They are not cheap and not regularly available in the U.S. – but something like this is what you really need to do what you want

View newTim's profile


622 posts in 4416 days

#3 posted 10-06-2017 12:14 AM

Prazi $169 12” BEAM CUTTER – MODEL PR-2700

-- tim hill

View newTim's profile


622 posts in 4416 days

#4 posted 10-06-2017 12:16 AM

Prazi $169 12” BEAM CUTTER – MODEL PR-2700 I still think you could get a real nice cut with the Festool Jigsaw with long blades.

-- tim hill

View Carl10's profile


115 posts in 1266 days

#5 posted 10-06-2017 12:35 AM

I have the EZ Track and they make plates for larger circular saws. But as Loren said the saw base and track would put you just short your 2.5” target. Contact them and tell them what you want to do. They have a lot of variations available. Dino the guy that runs the company is very helpful.

Hope that helps. Let us know what you do.


View newTim's profile


622 posts in 4416 days

#6 posted 10-06-2017 08:10 PM

-- tim hill

View BearcraftedCed's profile


7 posts in 1044 days

#7 posted 10-09-2017 11:05 PM

Ok – so only a couple weeks into my project, and the idea is all but dead (the mind of any good inventor is littered with discarded concepts). newTim lent me his TS75 to use on a project and I have had some time to really consider it more. I’ll probably be getting the Festool for what I need.

Having sketched out a bunch of track systems and looking at what is available commercially, many of them, even with that monster of a circular saw from Milwaukee have such a high stack it puts me back to a 3” or 3 1/8” vertical cut. That’s better than the Fes, but really only by about 3/8 of an inch. And the accuracy of a good track saw makes it pretty trivial to flip a piece over and cut through on exactly the same line as before. The chainsaw options including the sword saw have a 10mm kerf and don’t leave a finish-ready surface, a big deal in my furniture niche.

Not to mention that the pivot problem still exists for the MonsterTRACK saw, you’d need to buy/make seperate guides for each angle you want to cut for true accuracy, and in a production environment, fussing with a bunch of guides just doesn’t work. Hell, even having to clamp the damn thing down is too much.

The only situation where the big saw really shines is being able to miter a big slab in a single cut, but again, having see the accuracy of the TS, flipping and ripping the same line is super easy. Also in 5 years I have had to do that exactly one time, so how big of a problem is it really?

Guess my shop’s getting more green….

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 4457 days

#8 posted 10-09-2017 11:29 PM

I wouldn’t trust a Festool saw to miter 8/4
hardwoods without burning and saw marks,
but maybe I’m wrong to be skeptical.

Anyway, I googled the problem to check my
suspicions and found this thread.

To get that miter tight enough to sell as a piece
of bespoke furniture may require some additional
work with hand planes.

I’ve been let down by lower priced tools which
promise to do things as well as heavy machinery
enough that I’m alway skeptical.

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 4457 days

#9 posted 10-09-2017 11:41 PM

Here’s another thread that addresses the issue.

View wuddoc's profile


359 posts in 4527 days

#10 posted 10-09-2017 11:45 PM

Mafell makes a Beam Saw that works with their track systems but the price is somewhere out of this world and not sure if you can use the track if you need 45 degrees.

-- Wuddoc

View AlaskaGuy's profile


5873 posts in 3118 days

#11 posted 10-10-2017 12:00 AM

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View BearcraftedCed's profile


7 posts in 1044 days

#12 posted 10-10-2017 03:48 AM

Hey Loren, that is a good point – I thought that might be a problem so I went and tried it in the shop. The thing to do is really make two/three cuts. First is a cut to actually part the material at the angle you want, but slightly proud of the line. then you move the saw over 1 kerfwidth onto the line and run the cut again on each side to clean it up. The now-exposed saw blade stays very cool and delivers a clean cut. Total Kerf width for the cut was about 6mm. Not a perfect solution, but it works!

wuddoc and AlaskaGuy, those beam saws are awesome. Mafell pricing makes me feel poor even though I’d happily pony up for Festool… amazing.

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