Help with Replacement Bearings!!

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Forum topic by jmos posted 09-28-2017 06:07 PM 754 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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917 posts in 3141 days

09-28-2017 06:07 PM

My DeWalt 735 stopped feeding lumber in the middle of planing down some stock.

When I took off the side cover on the motor drive end I found quite a mess. The grease has polymerized so it was super thick and rubbery; not lubricating at all, and stuck all over. The drive belt was off the pulleys (the main problem) and trashed.

I started disassembly, cleaning off the stuck on goo (like dried rubber cement). When I got to the pulley it was covered in what looks like graphite, but may be metal ‘dust.’ I took off the pulley and found even more of the dust around the bearing. I assumed it was coming from the bearings, so I pulled out my Byrd head and took off the bearings. The motor end bearing spins really freely and makes some noise; I believe that means it’s shot. Please correct me if I’m wrong.

Anyway, if I recall correctly the bearing came with the Byrd head. The motor side bearing has the following markings: B239-0810-HB and 6204-C3. The gearbox side bearing has the following markings: H054-2146-HB 6202-C3.

Doing some quick googling, it looks like the C3 is a light motor bearing. Is this the best bearing for this service? In the same size I see some other suffixes like 2RS, ZZ, 2NSE – but I’m not seeing ones with just C3. What should I get? Does it matter? I know they need to be sealed – the current ones have what looks like stainless seals.

Is a light duty bearing the right choice for this service? I installed my Byrd head just shy of 4 years ago, and I’m just working at a hobby level, so it seems like the bearing failed pretty early.

I’d like to order something fast to get back up – any quick input would be appreciated.

-- John

4 replies so far

View splintergroup's profile


3778 posts in 1994 days

#1 posted 09-28-2017 06:14 PM

The postfix is usually the shield type (ZZ is a metal shield on both sides)

Aside form the shields, bearing quality is specified by the ABEC number (higher is tighter tolerance)

Forgot to add, 2RS in your query is rubber seals, both sides.

The C3 is the clearance. As a bearing heats up, things expand. You want essentially zero clearance at temperature (higher number is more clearance).

View DS's profile


3503 posts in 3192 days

#2 posted 09-28-2017 06:18 PM

I had put a couple of miles through my 12 1/2” planer before having to replace the bearings.

The same size bearing in an American made bearing will do wonders for your planer.
Mine runs almost better than new now, since the originals were cheap Chinese bearings.

In Phoenix there are local shops that only do bearings and they aren’t very expensive.
There are also several online bearing specialty stores that have just about every type and size of bearings.

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

View splintergroup's profile


3778 posts in 1994 days

#3 posted 09-28-2017 06:24 PM

I think what DS says is the key, avoid the Chinese bearings and get a US or Japanese made unit. Aside from often iffy hardening of cheap bearings, I’ve had some that lacked any grease or had dirty grease.

Search Amazon (among other places) for fast shipping.

View jmos's profile


917 posts in 3141 days

#4 posted 09-30-2017 12:05 PM

Thanks for the input guy, I do appreciate it.

-- John

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