Paneled Doors for cabinets - bit question

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Forum topic by jonlan posted 09-25-2017 11:29 PM 974 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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72 posts in 2179 days

09-25-2017 11:29 PM

I’ve been making panel doors for a couple of projects and had great success with Freud router bit sets to use on the router table. Up until now, I’ve been using a fairly basic set of two bits that allowed for making simple shaker style doors. My wife is now interested in me making some cabinets for the laundry room and she’d like them to match the cabinet doors we have in the kitchen. After a fair amount of research I found this set of bits from Freud that I believe closely matches the panel doors we have…

It showed up today – and it just now occurred to me that the doors also have a design routed on the outside edges. It seems obvious now, but the bit set I bought doesnt have a pattern to match this. My door edges look like this…

That to me sort of looks like this finger pull bit from Freud…

But I cant tell for sure and I cant find any other examples of using a bit like this on door edges. These seem like a fairly common door design so I guess I was surprised that I couldnt find an example of this. Anyone done an edge pattern like this before? Did you use a similar bit?

7 replies so far

View Madmark2's profile


3179 posts in 1880 days

#1 posted 09-25-2017 11:34 PM

Door edge routing is basically the last (optional) step. I believe it’s called a ‘thumbnail’ bit.

Let your wife decide.


-- The hump with the stump and the pump!

View TungOil's profile


1384 posts in 1787 days

#2 posted 09-26-2017 12:40 AM

Be careful if you are using European cup style hinges, some door edge profiles will expose the cup hole.

-- The optimist says "the glass is half full". The pessimist says "the glass is half empty". The engineer says "the glass is twice as big as it needs to be"

View jerryminer's profile


962 posts in 2733 days

#3 posted 09-26-2017 01:02 AM

... I cant find any other examples of using a bit like this on door edges…. – jonlan

Door edge router bits are pretty common. I think all the router bit manufacturers make a version or several. I’m surprised you can’t find examples.

I used the Whiteside 6022 in my kitchen, but the one you show would work, too. Do a test in scrap to make sure your hinges work, but the Whiteside bit does fine with euro-hinges.

-- Jerry, making sawdust professionally since 1976

View jonlan's profile


72 posts in 2179 days

#4 posted 09-26-2017 02:40 AM

@jerryminer – thanks for pointing those out! Im pleased to see that these only cut the front side of the door which means it shouldnt mess at all with the cups for euro hinges. Thanks much!

View Nubsnstubs's profile


1808 posts in 3022 days

#5 posted 09-26-2017 04:03 AM

Jonlan, I’ve done hundreds of doors with that edge detail. If you go back to the link you posted, look for a 99-063 No Lip Door Edge router bit. It’s the one you need.

I went bak to that link, and I couldn’t pull up that bit. I then searched again, and found that Woodcraft has it for $57+ ...... Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson)

View ArtMann's profile


1483 posts in 2108 days

#6 posted 09-26-2017 01:04 PM

I don’t think the bit you have linked to will produce a profile that looks like the one in you picture. It might be close enough. I suggest you get a catalog of MLCS and Eagle router bits or go to their website. They have a much larger selection than Amazon and the profiles are illustrated in the catalog. These bits are cheaper than Freud and won’t hold up as long but they should easliy outlast just one project.

View PPK's profile


1872 posts in 2101 days

#7 posted 09-26-2017 01:16 PM

The edge on that door is made with a shaper – it shapes the entire edge of the door, and there’s no bearing guide. This isn’t necessarily a problem if you’ve got a good fence on your router table set up.

I personally really dislike that edge (it screams cheap box cabinet to me) but have had to match the profile by request of client several times. What I do is use a round-over bit on the top, and then simply run the doors through the tablesaw to create the slight back bevel. Finish by a hand plane or sander to remove saw marks. This works pretty slick if you don’t have a huge pile of doors. The door profile mismatch really won’t be discernable to most people unless you are matching doors that are RIGHT next to the existing ones. Laundry room to kitchen, no problem in my mind. Just the way I’ve done it. Giving you one more option to mull!

-- Pete

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