bandsaw blade question

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Forum topic by Karda posted 09-07-2017 05:44 AM 956 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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2291 posts in 1330 days

09-07-2017 05:44 AM

I might get a couple maple logs and wanted to try a 3/8ths x 2TPI blade for real heavy cutting. I saw one some where when I was looking for blades but now I can’t find it, does any body know who sells 2 tooth blades thanks

11 replies so far

View Wildwood's profile


2867 posts in 2911 days

#1 posted 09-07-2017 10:00 AM

Jerry from Arizonia advised against using 2 TPI blades because they are two aggressive. I agree and would add 3 TPI easiest to use on consumer grade band saws.

If must have one good luck finding one.

-- Bill

View Nubsnstubs's profile


1723 posts in 2506 days

#2 posted 09-07-2017 02:14 PM

I agree with Jerry. He’s a smart feller. LOL

I’ve owned my bandsaw since 1978, and have used anywhere from 3-6 tpi for my work that had to be done. I’ve probably worn out over 200 blades over the years, but was never spooked by any of them until I tried a 2 tpi blade. Cutting absolutely flat stock would be safe, but if there is any deviation, you could get yourself into a situation you won’t like. Get the 3 tpi blades, and be careful as it is a cutting tool. If it can cut wood, it will cut hands and fingers just as well as Elk. ........... Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson)

View HorizontalMike's profile


7873 posts in 3690 days

#3 posted 09-07-2017 03:14 PM

This is what I have had the best luck with on my 14in BS, but granted it is a 3/4in wide blade. For a 3/8in blade, you have to go with at least 3tpi, and in order to try a 2tpi you would have to go with a 1/2in blade.

I am not sure I understand why you would want/need a “heavy cutting” blade in 3/8in? To me, that seems diametrically opposed trying to put together the two criteria mentioned. I do not know just how aggressive or conservative your cutting technique is, but that technique really should match the type of blade you choose to use. Just my 2-cents worth…
VPC SERIES – for straight-line resawing in small to large boards, kiln and air dry, up to 12” wide
available in: 3/4” x 2/3 tpi
The variable tooth design reduces resonance throughout the blade; this combined with diffrent size teeth produces a very clean finish almost polishing the wood as it is cut. It is only .025 thick with an overall kerf of .049 and incorporates the unique geometry of our PC design.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Karda's profile


2291 posts in 1330 days

#4 posted 09-07-2017 06:17 PM

what I want the 2 tooth for is for making bowl and spindle blanks, my band saw is a WEN 10” the power is not the greatest especially when ripping. That is why I wanted a more aggressive blade. But if it is unsafe for that use I won’t try it. I could use a half inch

View MrUnix's profile


8096 posts in 2975 days

#5 posted 09-07-2017 06:26 PM

I generally keep a 1/4” 6tpi blade in mine… and it only has a 1/2hp motor, so it’s not a power beast by any means. Works just fine cutting bowl blanks, spindles, bandsaw boxes and pretty much anything else I throw at it – even re-sawing as long as I don’t go too thick. If I want thicker stuff, I’ll go to a 1/2” 3tpi, but that is pretty rare and leaves a rougher cut that needs to be cleaned up after.


-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View bigblockyeti's profile


6577 posts in 2497 days

#6 posted 09-07-2017 08:29 PM

I use a 1 1/4” x 0.042” blade on my saw with 1.3 tpi, when new they go through white oak, ash or hickory like a hot knife through butter.

-- "Lack of effort will result in failure with amazing predictability" - Me

View Karda's profile


2291 posts in 1330 days

#7 posted 09-08-2017 12:15 AM

my blades bog down when I am resawing to trim up spindle blanks. I will stick with what I got just won’t push it. Thats probably most of the blades problem, I want it to work faster that it is able, kinda like the big industrial saw you see the teacher on u tube use

View Wildwood's profile


2867 posts in 2911 days

#8 posted 09-08-2017 10:36 AM

I don’t know what blade you have on your saw right now. You might want to make yourself a circle jig to help you control you rate feed of wood into the blade better. Have a simple jig made years ago to help my cut 1” x 3” mirrow blanks, that gave me better control. Also worked on a few larger bowl blanks with one flat side. The one I made similar to this one but lot simplier. There are many other example on the web just as easy to make.

Might find can get along with either 3/8” hook or skip 4TPI blade if saw cannot handle a 1/2” 3 TPI blade. They have smaller size blades listed too.

Mark Duginske used an old Sears 12” ½ HP, and 1/4” blade BS to do a lot of thick fancy cuts with that saw in his Bandsaw Handbook & video. Might find that book or video at public library. I bought both and still refer back now and then.

-- Bill

View HokieKen's profile


14071 posts in 1915 days

#9 posted 09-08-2017 11:53 AM

I have a 10” Craftsman bandsaw and was able to resaw 4” thick White Oak with a 3/8 3 tpi with no problems. Also have a 1/2” 3 tpi blade that worked fine for resawing but was pushing the limits of the tensioning mechanism on the saw.

For trimming up cutting blanks, 3/8” 3 tpi should be a good choice. With lower power saws, using a blade lubrication may help with it bogging down. Most likely though, you’re either feeding too fast or binding the blade in the cut.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View Karda's profile


2291 posts in 1330 days

#10 posted 09-08-2017 03:28 PM

thanks I am going to make a circle jig but my problem isn’t making a round blank it is more with trimming down large chunks into smaller size squares before I turn them round my chain saw cuts are not real good so I have to square on the band saw. I did,t think you should lubricate a band saw blade

View pontic's profile


797 posts in 1385 days

#11 posted 09-08-2017 04:01 PM

When sawing bowl blanks I think the set of the blade is just as important as the TPI getting a wider cut kerf helps greatly in achieving a better radius.

-- Illigitimii non carburundum sum

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