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12 inch Craftsman Bandsaw Question ? ANOTHER ?

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Forum topic by GR8HUNTER posted 08-25-2017 11:55 PM 2281 views 0 times favorited 29 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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GR8HUNTER

6609 posts in 1257 days


08-25-2017 11:55 PM

Topic tags/keywords: bandsaw

hello I own a 12 inch craftsman band saw 113.24350 and its dying pretty fast I got most vibration out of it with a new pulley on lower wheel all bearing are good and when I just run the motor I get NO vibration at all and right now I just cant afford a new saw and most on craigslist are a ridiculous price or the owner is a joke any way my question is do you guys think it would work to put plywood in between body of saw and stand ??yes I checked all bolts are tight :<))

this would require me too get a longer belt …then should I get a link belt …or just keep nursing it till I can afford a new one ..or a good craigslist find ?
THANKS ALL :<))

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN


29 replies so far

View toyguy's profile

toyguy

1704 posts in 4381 days


#1 posted 08-25-2017 11:58 PM

Maybe it needs new tires….....

-- Brian, Ontario Canada,

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

7506 posts in 2743 days


#2 posted 08-26-2017 12:05 AM

Adding weight helps, but if the vibration is excessive, then you really need to narrow it down… tires, wheels, bearings, belt, pulley, etc… you have already eliminated the motor as a suspect. How bad is the vibration anyway?

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View TungOil's profile

TungOil

1347 posts in 1039 days


#3 posted 08-26-2017 12:05 AM

I have that same saw Tony and mine vibrates more than I would like as well. At least in my case, the slots where the motor mounts to the base are pretty long, and I have my motor fully down in the slots. I think I could easily add a layer of 3/4” ply to mine and not have to change the belt, just move the motor up in the slots. Have you checked where you are in the slots? You might have room too.

I also found that mine runs much smoother if I carefully align the motor pulley with the pulley on the lower shaft using a straight edge. The slot arrangement where the motor mounts allows adjustment up and down as well as left to right, but that also means you can get the motor tilted such that the shafts are no longer parallel. at least for me, that created vibration.

-- The optimist says "the glass is half full". The pessimist says "the glass is half empty". The engineer says "the glass is twice as big as it needs to be"

View lew's profile

lew

12887 posts in 4299 days


#4 posted 08-26-2017 12:09 AM

Agree with Brian. The link belt may help, too.

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View GR8HUNTER's profile

GR8HUNTER

6609 posts in 1257 days


#5 posted 08-26-2017 12:11 AM

AT first Brad the whole floor was shaking that’s better now that I put new pulley on…..... bearings are all new …. new shaft…..... new pulleys

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

7506 posts in 2743 days


#6 posted 08-26-2017 12:36 AM

AT first Brad the whole floor was shaking that s better now that I put new pulley on…..... bearings are all new …. new shaft…..... new pulleys
- GR8HUNTER

Ok, so you have eliminated bearings, pulley, motor and wheel shaft. That leaves basically the belt and tires/wheels/blade. I can’t imagine a belt causing that much vibration… that is usually caused by belt set from sitting an extended period of time, but it will go away after a few minutes of using the machine as the belt warms up (and would not cause really excessive vibration anyway – at least not enough to make the floor shake :) I’d look at the tires/wheels/blade. Do you have a dial indicator? If so, measure the wheel/tire run-out to see if it’s way out. If you don’t have a dial indicator, you can improvise with a stick clamped in position and visually watching it while spinning the wheels. Check them for balance as well – an out of balance wheel can cause a lot of vibration. Check the tires for obvious damage. If they are the original rubber tires, you can true them up pretty easily. Watch the blade as it’s running to verity you don’t have a kink or bad weld. Keep narrowing it down!

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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GR8HUNTER

6609 posts in 1257 days


#7 posted 08-26-2017 12:42 AM

I replaced the tires with urethane about 6 months ago so there good also

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

View LittleBlackDuck's profile

LittleBlackDuck

3029 posts in 1365 days


#8 posted 08-26-2017 01:08 AM

Not sure where I read it, and unfortunately because of my penchant for reading, I will not read more than I need, so I’ll take a sabbatical in trying to find it. However, the article went on to talk about “buckling” in the top bandwheel often attributed to not releasing the tension between use (especially in the smaller bandsaws – 14” er).

I’m no engineer and in my layman’s opinion, a ply insert might dampen the vibration but will not fix the cause. It seems like you have checked most viable options so try the wheel trueness (if not already done). How do you check it…. hmmm… je ne sais pas, you might need to rtfm.

Failing that… good luck and save your penies for a new/pre-loved bandsaw.

-- If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

View bruce317's profile

bruce317

404 posts in 1367 days


#9 posted 08-26-2017 01:20 AM

Tony, I found this here some where. Don’t remember who posted it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

-- Bruce - Indiana - Sawdust is just, MAN GLITTER!

View jonah's profile

jonah

2091 posts in 3843 days


#10 posted 08-26-2017 11:45 AM

I used to have the very same saw, and a link belt did indeed cut down on the vibration. I’d try that. The HF one is ~$30 with a 20% off coupon.

View patcollins's profile

patcollins

1687 posts in 3409 days


#11 posted 08-26-2017 12:55 PM

Take the blade off and run it, if there is no vibration then it is either tire related or upper wheel related.

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

23996 posts in 3227 days


#12 posted 08-26-2017 02:52 PM

IF mine isn’t sitting with all four feet planted firmly on the floor, there will be a bit of vibration, ...

I had the saw apart for a while ( new tires. ) While the tires were off the wheels, I cleaned the beds on the wheel where the tires would sit….there was a LOT of caked dust stuck under the old tires. While the lower wheel was spinning under no load, an old file was held to the wheel. Vibration in the wheel soon disappeared.

Instead of plywood between the saw and the base, maybe just enclose the base, to keep it’s legs solid. Maybe add a screened vent for the motor? Find some of those old faucet washers, install them between the saw and the base.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View GR8HUNTER's profile

GR8HUNTER

6609 posts in 1257 days


#13 posted 04-24-2019 02:48 PM

Ok, so you have eliminated bearings, pulley, motor and wheel shaft. That leaves basically the belt and tires/wheels/blade. I can t imagine a belt causing that much vibration… that is usually caused by belt set from sitting an extended period of time, but it will go away after a few minutes of using the machine as the belt warms up (and would not cause really excessive vibration anyway – at least not enough to make the floor shake :) I d look at the tires/wheels/blade. Do you have a dial indicator? If so, measure the wheel/tire run-out to see if it s way out. If you don t have a dial indicator, you can improvise with a stick clamped in position and visually watching it while spinning the wheels. Check them for balance as well - an out of balance wheel can cause a lot of vibration. Check the tires for obvious damage. If they are the original rubber tires, you can true them up pretty easily. Watch the blade as it s running to verity you don t have a kink or bad weld. Keep narrowing it down!

Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix


how do I balance these wheels? I did narrow it down to them … I think :<))

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

View William Falberg's profile

William Falberg

13 posts in 1898 days


#14 posted 04-29-2019 09:23 PM

99.99% of bandsaw vibration is from unbalanced wheels. Before I went to all machined aluminum wheels I used cast aluminum (machined for bearings and rims) and balanced them with a home-made jig consisting of a vertical ice pick and an inverted cone (machine -centered) that went into the wheel bearings’ centers to put the center of gravity directly in the center of the wheel. The heavy side would hang down while the light side wound ride high. I would drill 3/8” holes in the heavy side till the whole wheel balanced on that pin-point horizontally. It drastically reduced vibration and those saws still work quite well. But still not as quiet and vibration-free as the machined-from-billet wheels we’re using now that stop blade flapping altogether.

https://ibb.co/Hhpywp2

-- http://www.falbergsaws.com

View yonygg's profile

yonygg

8 posts in 2939 days


#15 posted 10-21-2019 12:47 PM

Hi GR8HUNTER,

I have a very similar bandsaw and been having vibrations with it for decades. Actually it was my father’s bandsaw but I remember it vibrating ever since I remember myself as a kid.
I’ve replaced the belt to a link belt, I replaced the lower wheel pulley with a cast iron heavy duty pulley I bought off of McMaster-Carr because I was sure the original pulley is crooked but still the bastard vibrates.
I also need to replace a broken lower thrust pulley but that is unrelated.
I think last night I finally found out the reason for the vibrations:
The upper wheel is sitting on a mechanism that does 2 things – 1) blade tensioning mechanism. 2) blade tracking mechanism. These 2 mechanisms have moving parts. These parts should fit nicely to one each other according to my understanding, however there is a lot of slack and the upper wheel is actually never snug and can vibrate/move freely in all axes of motion. Now try spinning a wheel on a loose axis and what you have is vibrations!

Besides that I suspect the upper wheel either has some runout to it or a bit distorted, or maybe it’s just the original tire that’s on it that is not so consistent in width which means the high spot that the blade is supposed to ride upon does not spin on the same plane, which makes the blade wobble as it follows the oscillating high spot of the tire as it spins.

Next time I’ll be in my workshop I could take some videos but this might take a while as I’m flying abroad today for a while.

If anyone has ANY ideas on how to take away the slop out of any of these parts (other than buying a lathe and a mill and machining them from scratch), I’ll be grateful.

GR8HUNTER, I’d love to know if that’s your case too.

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