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Radial arm verses Sliding miter.

4K views 28 replies 25 participants last post by  Dcase 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
At first I was starting to form my opinion that the 12" sliding miter would take the place of a radial arm saw. But after reading all the reviews on the sliding miter saws, I'm not so sure. It seems as if you want a sliding miter that is accurate you must shell out in the neighborhood of $500-$700. You can pick up a radial arm saw on craigslist for +- $100 up to $300 for one that is mint. The radial arm isn't as easy to transport but mine would stay home anyway. The radial arm is proven itself many years ago. It doesn't take up but maybe another 10"-12" over a sliding 12" miter saw station. And you can crosscut up to 18", you can cut dadoes as well as rip with a radial arm.
Anybody want to profess their expertise on this subject?
 
#2 · (Edited by Moderator)
There are some here that use a RAS, me included, two of them. You may actually need more room in the back for a SCMS, although the new Bosch with the articulated arm is pretty cool. The older Dewalts with a cast iron arm and the elevating crank on top of the column, not on the arm, are considered most solid and stable. They keep alignment better. The older Deltas with their pivoting arm work well also. The RAS purist scoff at the newer Dewalts and Craftsmans. There are usually 20 Craftsman RAS at any one time on CL in my area. Sears sold a bizillion of them. My advice is steer clear of the newer Craftsman models. Too much thin gauge metal and plastic. Ridgid seems to sell a reasonable RAS. Depending on where you live, the older Dewalts appear a few times year on CL for usually $200 or less. They are well worth the money if the motor and ways are in good shape. You can spend a fortune on spare parts for an older RAS missing parts. The models you may want to look for is the MBF, GW, 1400, and 925 Powershops, built in the 50s and 60s. Don't go under 3/4 HP and 1.5 up to 3hp using a 9" blade is really the perfect size range for a garage shop.
 
#3 ·
Won't say that I'm an expert on the issue, but agree with David on steering clear of the newer model Craftsman models. I have and older model that I have been very satisfied with. I also own a 12" SCMS that has its uses in the shop, but none near the uses of the RAS. If push came to shove I would give up the SCMS before the RAS.
 
#4 ·
Im no expert either. But One thing to remember. Radial Arm Saws tend to be a PITA to setup, and keep at 90o, if you plan on doing mitres. Mitre saws do not have that issue. RAS tend to be, though, more versitile, being able to run a shaper/moulder head, dados, sanders, even a planer, and drill press attachment..

It is really a matter of personal preferance. But I tend to like the mitre saw, more than the RAS, just because it can cut accurately.
 
#5 ·
I have one, I'm not an expert either. My best guess would be if price and space are an issue go with a RAS. RAS's need space in front of them, SCMS need space to the front and back of them. RAS's can be a pain to keep accurate if you are changing things constantly, but if you use it for just 90* you should be fine. You can rip on one but I wouldn't recommend it, table saw is a lot safer. Like other have said, stay away from the newer ones, mine is from 1978 and is made from light duty material, but after spending some time tuning it runs just right. Though I've been thinking about selling it since most of my finished pieces are within the capacity of my 10" miter saw. I also rebuilt my crosscutting table and realized how much room my RAS was taking up, I have an idea of putting it on a mobile cart with folding wings.
 
#6 ·
I'm an expert. Get the SCMS. :)

(Couldn't help it on the expert comment; someone had to step up.)

I understand all the pro-RAS arguments, but I just never got comfortable with one. They feel clunky and dangerous to me, versus a SCMS which feels more refined, easier to control, simpler and safer.

I realize there are many valid reasons why a good RAS is a more versatile, and in many cases more accurate tool, but I was just never able to "tame" one, so I like the SCMS route.

So, I guess that means that I actually am not an expert either, but I know what I like. :)
 
#8 ·
I always like these posts because it brings out all the comments.

I am not an expert, get rid of the SCMS… I cut my teeth with a RAS and wouldn't do without one. In the end it comes down to what you are comfortable with: for me that is a RAS and for others it is a SCMS.
 
#9 · (Edited by Moderator)
I picked a SCMS over a RAS due to portability concerns, as well as availability. Maybe where you live there are decent larger RAS', but around here the ones on the used market are either small, totally trashed, or very expensive…

My SCMS is the HF 12", and while not a super saw, test cuts so far have proved to be very accurate. It just needs some adjustment out of the box, and a decent blade…

I think a lot depends on what your needs are. Just one thing to keep in mind. There is a reason that you don't see new radial arm saws on the market, at least not like they once were…
 
#11 ·
Thanks everyone for the comments. No concession but good points of view. Space is a big consideration for me now as well as cost is.
I have located an older DeWalt as is indicated, could just grab it, as the sliding miter will be available in the future if I want to go that route.
But to tell you the truth, even though all of you have made good points. The water may be a little more muddied at this point.
The main use would be for cross cuts and miters. not much in the way of crown molding. Just boxes and furniture building.
 
#13 · (Edited by Moderator)
An advantage of radial arm saws is they can do a nice job with
dados. Only very large saws have enough capacity to do a
finish crosscut on a 24" deep cabinet side. No SCMS can make
that cut, but it's a cut you'll have to do a lot if you make
kitchen boxes.

A big radial arm saw is mostly a tool for breaking up solid wood
lumber to usable length. That is, arguably, what the saw was
designed for and it's certainly the way they are used in factories
and lumber yards.

Radial arm saws can be tuned for doing some precise joinery work.
I would stay clear of the Sears ones and look for an older Delta
or Dewalt - these saws take and hold settings much better.

SCM saws are fun to use. No doubt about it. I don't think you'll
get cabinet-making accuracy from a 12" model, but such a saw
is great for building decks and things like that.

I have a 8 1/2" Dewalt SCMS and it's a pretty accurate tool due to
the smaller blade and reasonably tight build-quality. Blade flutter and
play in the head isn't a big problem with the smaller blade. It is
accurate enough for crosscutting and furniture-grade butt joinery
in wood that isn't too thick or tough. The Hitachis are said to be
good too, but all these saws are really portable tools for doing trim -
they are a far cry from the heavy cross-cutting miter saws used in
industrial settings like picture frame shops.

I own Festool stuff and the Dewalt SCMS and the only machine I trust
to cut accurate tenon shoulders is a table saw or a tight radial arm
saw. Even the Festool work table setup has too much play to be reliable
for this application.
 
#14 ·
I used a Montgomery Wards RAS for twenty years before getting my Jet cabinet saw. Since it was the only big power tool I had, I made do, but was never really happy with its performance. Ripping was a disaster waiting to happen, but crosscutting and dadoes were its forte. Now that I have a shop full of nice stuff, I can see a use for them if you have the room. The saw I had was REALLY loud, and needed constant attention to keep the arm in calibration. I tried unsuccessfully to sell it, finally gave it away.
 
#16 · (Edited by Moderator)
I also agree with David, I have had a RAS for too many years to mention and use it in my shop all the time for cross cuts and cutting dados. I also have and use a miter saw. My table saw is used for ripping material. Properly set up RAS is a very nice tool to have in the shop as long as you have the room. I would not part with mine for anything. There is however many who hate the saw and would not own one. I guess that this Old Timer is set in his ways and just too old to change. All the tools in my shop are of old vintage, I keep them going year after year and they have served me well. I would like to have some of the new stuff but the price they are getting on some of them is completly out of range for me since I retired. A 8" jointer would be nice, but I buy all my stock and just keep using my 6" jointer and laminate the material together for wider stock. This is the way I was taught when I was a youngster. It works for me so why change.
 
#17 · (Edited by Moderator)
I love this debate. To me its like comparing apples and oranges. What it comes down to is your needs, what will you be using the saw for. I have both, actually 4 RAS's and 5 Miter saws. I am a contractor that finishes custom homes and also has a cabinet shop. The RAS's stay in the shop and the miter saws are both at the shop and out on the job. A miter saw is the perfect tool for cutting moldings, while a RAS is more suited for cabinet building. There are thing each can do the other can't.
As for accuracy they both will need some attention eventually (never wait until its obvious).
Don't by a newer RAS unless you plan on spending a $1000 plus. The newer saws (the affordable ones) are to cheaply made and compromise safety and accuracy. All mine are DeWalts- 2 are 925's and 2 are GWI's (one of each are for sale:)).
There are a lot of excellent miter saws, look for a good sale. Some of the bigger vendors will have tool shows periodically, great time to buy.
Good luck.
P.S. I paid around $100 for each of my 925's. The cheaper of the 2 couldn't have had more than 10 hours on it, looked like it just came out of the box. Keep your eyes on Craigslist.
 
#18 · (Edited by Moderator)
Ok I'm an expert too, LOL My 1st. power tool when I got married around 45 years ago was a Craftsman 10 in. RAS. The way it was designed it would NEVER hold even 90 degrees without slipping. I used it for ripping & everything else. To rip with a RAS requires a death wish. I replaced it with a Delta 10 in. contractor style RAS about 20 years ago. It holds an angle. About 2 years ago I bought a Bosch 12 in. CMS for the angles. It's a fantastic tool.

Personal observation: Having sold power tools for several years & woodworking since the 7th grade ( I'm 70) I feel that the SCMS likes the stability of the RAS. For angles however I use either the CMS or my table saw.
 
#19 ·
I certainly think that there is a place for both in a woodworkers shop. Due to space and finances though, for me and my specific needs, the SCMS won out, I think that at least in the overall market, that is the general consensus… I think over time, with some good engineering in hand, I bet the advantages of both can be mashed together in a superb package… I am however, not an engineer… I just hope I live long enough to enjoy using something like that…
 
#20 ·
I sold my sears radial arm saw on craigs list… Had to sell it for 60 dollars and threw in a wheel set and book…craigs list is full of them they are hard to sell. I got rid of it for the space and i like a chop saw better even though a chop saw cannot do as much.

Bob
 
#24 ·
We use our RAS just for rough cutting to length always set to 90 degrees. We cut all our miters on the table saw using a shop made miter jig. I argue a table saw is even more accurate for miter cuts when using a dedicated miter sled. Although to do a compound cut you can't beat a SCMS.

Miter sled
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/39096
 
#26 ·
I have an old Ryobi RAS that my dad gave me. I first used it when I was like 10 years old and I continue to use it now. For a smaller and cheaper RAS it has served me and my dad very well for the past 20 some years. I mostly use it for cross cutting rough lumber or wide boards but I sometimes set it up to do other things..

My RAS has a router/drill bit collet on the other side of the motor and can be used as an over top router or drill press. I have never heard of any woodworkers using the router attachment and I am sure most would say its not powerful enough but I tried it out and found it to work pretty decent for small things and detail work. Also with a straight router bit I can do dados as well as stopped dados. A little easier then doing on a normal router table I think.
 
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