Planer maintenance question

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Forum topic by Bradb7888 posted 06-17-2017 05:11 AM 952 views 0 times favorited 2 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Bradb7888's profile


13 posts in 1306 days

06-17-2017 05:11 AM

Topic tags/keywords: planer dewalt wax maintenance tips

A while back I bought a used DW735 planer and when I fired it up to test it out, not a single board would go through. After reading, I cleaned the rollers with mineral spirits and it worked great, but from what I read, a lot of people recommend johnsons paste wax for the bed of the planer. I’ve realized the importance of maintaining tools over the years and am wondering if I should be waxing the bed of my planer.
After researching, I’ve read that johnsons paste wax, paraffin wax blocks, etc are good, but no forums really go into detail about it. Do you just wipe it on the bed and it helps the wood slide through? Does the wax get into the wood and become a problem when it comes time to sand? Do I need wax/lubricant with a power planer or is this more for hand planers?

Also, I’ve noticed some sniping about 2-3” from the end of my boards and have tried lifting up on the board as it is exiting the planer, but this only moves the sniping closer to the end of the board.. no big deal on this as I can sand it out, but if anyone has any insight that would be great too.

Thanks in advance! You guys are always very helpful.

2 replies so far

View jmos's profile


917 posts in 3147 days

#1 posted 06-17-2017 01:13 PM

I’ve got a 735 with a Byrd head.

Yes, the rollers periodically need to be cleaned, as you found out.

I do wax the tables, it helps to reduce friction. Put it on, let it dry, buff off the excess. I’ve never had a problem with wax transferring to the wood and messing up the finish. It might be an issue if you put on a thick coat and didn’t remove the excess; but in that case it wouldn’t help with friction either, so not much point.

As far as snipe, if you have the tables, you can try to adjust them so the ends are a bit higher, that will help some. I usually cut my rough boards a few inches long so I can cut off any snipe, bit it will also plane or sand off easily, as it’s not too deep.

-- John

View JBrow's profile


1368 posts in 1698 days

#2 posted 06-17-2017 03:06 PM


I agree with jmos. Until last year, I used furniture paste wax on the planer bed, buffing out the wax after the carrier solvent in the wax flashed of. I never noticed any problems when sanding or applying finishing. I have not tried paraffin blocks.

After waxing the planer bed with some frequency, I decide to secure an Ultra High Molecular Weight (UHMW) sheet to the planer bed. It offers little friction and thus allows the boards to slide easily. Other than vacuuming after use, the UHMW sheet requires no maintenance.

There was a time when stalling became a problem on my planer. Clean, and even new feed rollers, and a waxed bed helped some, but stalling was still a problem. That is when I discovered that the feed roller tension was out of adjustment. When the feed roller tension was re-adjusted to factory specs, the stalling problem went away. I am not sure whether a feed roller tension adjustment exists on your planer.

My approach to the planer snipe problem differs from jmos. My planer bed is flat. I start the planning operation with a scrap, sacrificial board. Just as the end of the sacrificial board is disappearing from view, I butt the first project board against the end of the sacrificial board. As this first board is disappearing from view, the second project board is butted against the end of the first project board, and so end. When the last project board is disappearing from view, the sacrificial board is butted against the end of the last project board. This seems to fool the planer into thinking that a single long board is being planed and eliminates snipe on the project boards.

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