How to best apply polyurethane to quilted table top

If it were my project, I would spray the finish on. If you don’t have a sprayer, you can use rattle cans. I used to use wipe on polyurethane which is applied too thinly to see brush strokes. It takes several coats to get very much build up. The good thing about wipe on is that it is almost fool proof (not that I think you are foolish!).

Edit: I think the correct term for the pattern you are using may be “herringbone”.

A picture is always best when trying to explain “sutff” if possible.

Before you worry about the finishing process we need to figure out if you have a cross grain situation on the table top.

You said “I have two boards connected side by side with the grain running parallel to each other. On the end grain of those boards, I have boards attached that have the grain running perpendicular to the first two.” How did you attach those boards? How wide are the boards that are parallel. Did you think of wood movement.

We need more information on the construction of the table top. Again a picture does wonders when trying to explain “stuff”>

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

This is a night table I just finished. It has three coats of wipe-on poly and four coats of min-wax polish. I like the look a lot.

-- MasMan from the Fiery Gizzard

+1 on AlaskaGuy’s request for photos. Kind of hard to picture. ArtMann is probably right with the herringbone, but photos would help.

-- Knowledge is not skill. Knowledge plus ten thousand times is skill. -- Shinichi Suzuki

This is the table top. It’s made of 2×4’s. They are joined on the opposite side by pocket holes.

I don’t know the name for that pattern. Are the darker “lines” chamfers, or an artifact of different thicknesses? If they are chamfers, and you managed to stain it uniformly, good on ya! I’d spray the poly though, from different angles around the piece, but at about 45° from horizontal to get it into the gaps. There will be a fair amount of over spray, though. I wouldn’t want to brush it unless I was looking for a rustic finish. Too finicky for gloss, that way.

-- Random Orbital Nailer

Those are the normal contours of the edges of the 2×4’s, so they form little valleys where the boards meet. A spray on poly may be the best way to go here. Thanks!

Get ready far an ass chewing! just saying,

No ass chewing here, but when I hear quilted pattern and wood, I’m not picturing 2×4’s in a quilted pattern. Ya know — quilted maple and all.

That’s really a nice piece. Seriously, I like the pattern. Since you already have gel stain on there, and there are chamfers in the joints, I’d suggest spraying a topcoat. Your choice. Get a couple of cans at the big box store and have at it.

My preference is lacquer. It’s very forgiving. If you make a mistake, it’s easy to fix.

-- Knowledge is not skill. Knowledge plus ten thousand times is skill. -- Shinichi Suzuki

Spray on or wipe-on poly should be fine. I usually prefer wipe-on though, as it make it makes it really easy to get any desired look – from a muted natural wood danish oil look to a high gloss one, and anything in-between.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

Thanks guys!

Thanks guys!

Get ready far an ass chewing! just saying,

- jbay

Why would I get my ass chewed?

Well, when I hear quilted pattern, I picture something like this:

-- Knowledge is not skill. Knowledge plus ten thousand times is skill. -- Shinichi Suzuki

How are you allowing for wood movement in that pattern?

-- https://www.jtplaneworks.com - In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.

How are you allowing for wood movement in that pattern?

- JayT

Same thing I was wondering about. Apparently no one sees that a possible problem.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!